Quotebartdietrich WD40 is also a lubricant though. A major component of it by volume is a volatile solvent which evaporates quickly but this then leaves behind a non-volatile coating of lubricant. Bart, I don't agree... but it's not worth one second of arguing! If it works for you, all well and good - I'll stick with thin oil myself. Good luck with your fan hunt (I recommend the ones with baby David J - Ormerod
What is your bed made of? You only get 10mm range when the metal it's sensing is iron or steel - if it's aluminium you can only expect around 4mm, maybe less.by David J - Controllers
If it's one of those cheap and nasty little fans, the bearings have probably gummed up or failed. I've got through about 3 or 4 so far. Sometimes you can peel off the label and get at the bearing - put a tiny drop of thin OIL on it (about as much as you can get on the end of a length of wire is enough). Note I wrote OIL, as WD40 is a water dispersant (WD) not a lubricant. It might clean stufby David J - Ormerod
I have experienced something similar - in my case, I think it's static electricity. My PC's USB ports are very sensitive to it, and occasionally the PC can shut down when I insert a USB plug (the carpet in the room is synthetic fibre, and sometimes I can get small sparks off anything, including the wife!). I have had prints stop when I've touched the metal frame of the printer... now the UK weaby David J - Repetier
Quotemrorange26 IM just using cura on its own that's why I cant find it. Strange that they put some useful functionality in a prominent place in the plug-in, but hide it in the main app...by David J - Delta Machines
Quotemrorange26 I have enabled retraction but cant find minimize crossing perimeters,Where is it in cura. Just a thought - I use the Cura plug-in for Repetier-Host. Is that what you're using? The reason I ask is that I've just looked in the stand-alone version of Cura and I couldn't find the 'minimise crossing perimeters' in there.by David J - Delta Machines
What Doug said. If I've understood it correctly, It tries to keep the nozzle over the print as far as possible, instead of taking the direct route. If any threads are left behind they will tend to fall onto the plastic already deposited. The downside is that the nozzle has to fly all over the print, thus taking more time.by David J - Delta Machines
Probably not much use to you at the moment as they're all for my Prusa i3 - my Cherry Pi is being upgraded to a Duet board just now. However, have you selected the "minimize crossing perimeters" checkbox in the "Extrusion" setup? And also "Enable retraction"? The first one certainly had an effect on stringing when I was playing around, although it did make the job time a bit longer.by David J - Delta Machines
Which slicer are you using? I find that I get a lot more stringing with Slic3r than with Cura - in fact, I rarely get stringing with Cura. I'm sure that there are settings that can be changed in both slicers - but when you have one that gives nice results, and one that doesn't - guess which gets used!by David J - Delta Machines
You might find a similar item in a local supplier of hydraulic or pneumatic equipment/spares, e.g. Pirtek in the UK. Otherwise, I'm sure E3D will sell you one, if you can live with the delivery time.by David J - General
I looked at that and thought that it looked very heavy to put on the effector... then I realised that it's mostly empty space... I just worry about the fan flapping around on the top when the effector's changing direction rapidly. However - in reality - I'm sure there's no problem!by David J - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 use ZPL's web interface along with DC42 Firmware and you will love it. I've got it downloaded and ready to go!by David J - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 Oh by the way I can wholeheartedly recommend one of DC42's PanelDue displays to go with the Duet they are absolutely the Dogs Danglies Having just bought the Duet board - I'll have to wait until my bank account catches up! Anyway, I can manage with the printer connected to the computer as that's the way I normally work. I'll consider it once I get the printer working properly wby David J - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 QuoteDavid J Thanks Doug - I'll have a look at those shortly. My printer is almost entirely standard, with the exception of the effector, which was designed by Pointy for the E3Dv6. Cheers, David Ah so only the upper clamp pieces then. It's a bit more complicated - the effector's spacers have been modified so that the E3Dv6 fan can fit in the usual place. This leaves the hot-by David J - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 1. Yes. For your config and homing files, I suggest you start from the ones I provide for the Mini Kossel, and adapt them to suit the large dimensions of your Cherry Pi. In particular, you will need to adjust the parameters in the M665 command in config.g, the maximum homing distance in homedelta.g, and the bed probe points in bed.g. Understood - I've taken a quick look at the .g filesby David J - Delta Machines
Thanks Doug - I'll have a look at those shortly. My printer is almost entirely standard, with the exception of the effector, which was designed by Pointy for the E3Dv6. Cheers, Davidby David J - Delta Machines
Thanks Doug, I wouldn't mind a copy of your config.g file - more for information/education than anything else. I can modify it to suit if necessary. Cheers, Davidby David J - Delta Machines
A couple of questions for dc42: David, 1. I've now got my Duet board - can I follow your instructions for converting the Kossel Mini to Duet when I install the board in my Cherry Pi? Not so much the physical aspects such as mounting the board, but the general set-up and so on. 2. Can I use a 2Gb microSD card? I have one in my cupboard, and it seems a shame to have to buy another! FYI - the Reby David J - Delta Machines
Best to wait until you can do it properly - these motors can take quite a high current intermittently on each wire, so a bad joint could end up in a bad situation. Patience is a virtue!by David J - Reprappers
It will probably end up the same distance from the nozzle as in Andy's new effector, possibly 5mm further away. Not exactly sure yet (but something I will bear in mind when I get down to it).by David J - Delta Machines
Well, I've made my mind up - a Duet board has been ordered, and is on its way. I've also just taken delivery of an inductive sensor, so I'll be working out how I'm going to fit that to my non-standard E3Dv6-mounted effector over the next few days... I have an idea or two, so we'll see how it works out...by David J - Delta Machines
Well done.by David J - Controllers
Quotedc42 I agree that it would be nice to have a good wiki on the Duet. Or even a list similar to yours, somewhere convenient.by David J - Controllers
That's an impressive list! I've got some reading to do... (I knew about the RepRap wiki page, but I didn't find anything else off that list with Google searches - or, if it was there, it was well hidden) Many thanksby David J - Controllers
I'm teetering on the edge, trying to make up my mind about replacing my Arduino/RAMPS setup with a Duet. I do know that it should be a lot better for my newly-made delta, but I'm a bit dismayed by the lack of 'official' documentation. I've already found dc42's very good pages on upgrading the Kossel, but I haven't anything else. If you compare this with the wiki for the Smoothieboard, the laby David J - Controllers
I have already tried it at a very low travel speed - no different. I've decided to get myself an inductive sensor like the one Andy's used - that should take delta calibration out of the equation. Unfortunately I'll have to devise a different bracket for it, as I'm currently using the E3Dv6 effector designed by Pointy - Andy's new effector won't take the E3Dv6. I've already got a few ideas abouby David J - Delta Machines
Yes I have - it's spot on. Originally it was over-extruding, but I'd calibrated before trying to print anything.by David J - Delta Machines
It's a bit hard to check calibration in 10 or more places when I'm doing calibration manually - it's certainly not impossible, but it is quite involved. I've tried a few places other than those defined in Andy's scripts, using X and Y moves in Repetier Host and, if anything, I'm a tad high in most places (paper is an easy drag under the nozzle). The settings in Marlin came from Andy's example fby David J - Delta Machines
OK - after further experimentation I'm still puzzled... 1. Increased the stepper driver current a bit - the only significant difference was that the driver heatsinks got uncomfortably hot. I've reset them back to the correct reference voltage. 2. Ran the test print without filament - went through the entire print without a clunk. 3. Ran the test print with filament, but with a temporary bed thaby David J - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I presume you do have thermal insulation of some kind under the heated bed? The heated bed kit for the Mini Kossel from T3P3 includes an electronics cooling fan to blow air over the Arduino/RAMPS. See the end of . Yes - my bed sits on an insulating board, with a 2mm layer of cork between the bed and the board. It still gets slightly warm underneath, but nothing that normal electronicsby David J - Delta Machines