Get a Hexagon. The heat sink on the magma is just not efficient. I had tons of jams and issues. Right now I love the Hexagon hot end (RepRapDiscount or Makerfarm sell them).by bytemedwb - Reprappers
Thanks for the URL. It turns out I found the connectors after some working with Digikey. Here is the housing and pin part numbers: 455-2267-ND Connector 455-1135-1-ND Pins My connectors are not holding firmly on the endstop pins but that is minor and can be solved. Also the pots on the stepper drivers have no end points or detents (they turn 360 degrees multiple times) which is annoying but nby bytemedwb - RAMPS Electronics
I picked up a Signstek RAMPS 1.4 board from amazon (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H1LEMR8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) It camp with connectors and crimps for the motor connections but I managed to screw them up. (All thumbs). In any case I am looking to find the correct Digikey or Mouser part numbers but am having no luck. Attached are pictures. This is what I get forby bytemedwb - RAMPS Electronics
I have the Makerfarm I3 and have also built 20+ of them in workshops I conduct. ++++! on Colin's customer service and support. Like others I have not had a chance to build the Vslot version yet (will be building 6 of them next month as we put together a 3D printer lab for the local high school). On warping, I actually broke my wood frame shipping the printer. Nothing a little gorilla glue coulby bytemedwb - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for sharing this. I do a 3D printing workshop where participants actually build a printer kit. Don;t generally have as much time to go into the software side. I am currently actually putting together a 3D printer lab for the local high school so there are a lot of good ideas in your slides for the teachers. Like Ralph I highly recommend getting openscad into the mix. It is a greatby bytemedwb - Reprappers
What happens if you increase the feed rate via the manual slider in Repetier? Also, if your acceleration limit is low then the printer does not speed up much on short runs. I tend to use the Feed Rate slider in Repetier or the feed rate dial on my I3 vs playing with slicer settings. I have found that to be easier since some filament does better at higher speeds than others.by bytemedwb - General
Couple of things come to mind: 1. Misaligned pins plugged into the ramps board 2. Bad wire to the motor 3. Stepper driver current too low. From your description I am guessing most likely 1 or 2. If you plug another motor into the extruder stepper connection does it turn when activated? What happens if you plug the extruder motor into another connection?by bytemedwb - General
Max: What size nozzle? What is the default extrusion width set to in Slic3R? Did you do the .5mm thinwall test? What did the wall size measure? Finally, how many perimeters/shells? Most likely it is extrusion width related. The newest Slic3r has a glitch where you need to set the default extrusion width to your nozzle size. After that look at your extrusion multiplier.by bytemedwb - Reprappers
So I do a Workshop around building and assembling the Prusa I3 from Makerfarm. We have done over 20 of these printers in this workshop. The only issues encountered were a couple of missing parts and a couple of parts that broke in shipping which Colin replaced very quickly. In the work shop we take from 16-24 hours to go through the introduction, build, and calibration of the printers. Becauseby bytemedwb - General Mendel Topics
I just ordered some Garolite (LE) from McMaster. I was using blue painters tape and the Nylon was pulling up the tape. The other night I actually paused the print at the first layer and taped down the brim. As for dyeing there is a great blog post out there about using RIT dye. I just don't have the link handy.by bytemedwb - General
I am just starting with printing Nylon - I bought some Taulman 618. There are lots of good threads here on the forum about printing with Nylon and other materials. Nylong I am finding is tricky with warping.by bytemedwb - General
All of the ones I have gotten are a really tight fit. The plate is just aluminum so a fine file or sand paper to make the slot a little bigger. If you have a dremmel tool just use a fine sanding/buffer head.by bytemedwb - General
Which garolite variant did you purchase?by bytemedwb - General
Wondering if anyone has seen this issue. I just installed a new Mk2A dual voltage heated bed on my Prusa I2 (the solder pads on the old one were shot). The first print went fine but it seemed that the bed took a long time to get to temp (90C for PLA). When I tried to print again tonight it would not get to temp even after an hour. I double checked by wiring and solder connections and they were fby bytemedwb - Reprappers
Hmmm. I have seen similar happen but it is more random (e.g. same slice but random prints of the same part error out). We need to tell if it is slicer or mechanical. One easy way is to measure the height of the shift and look at the Gcode for that layer, do you see the shift in the gcode? You can also edit the gcode and take out some of the lower layers and see if the shift occurs at the sameby bytemedwb - General
I had a similar problem. and my solid layers were not solid. The fix was to set the "Default Extrusion Width" to the nozzle size leave all the others set to default.by bytemedwb - Slic3r
Can you post a picture? I think I have .95D and not seeing this. It has Slic3R 1,0RC2by bytemedwb - General
Wow - I have always worried about this possibility. I have the wooden Makerfarm also. So I just went on to amazon and bought:Flame Defender - 12 KG - 7.7' coverage I don't worry as much about the type of short OP had but more the idea that the thermistor fails and a run away hot end ignites plastic. Add to that the can of Acetone that is generally there.by bytemedwb - Safety & Best Practices
I printed the hand. Have not had much time to do anything more.by bytemedwb - Robots!
The other thing I have seen is too much current draw on a single rail. Some ATX power supplies are 2 rail others are single rail. How many AMP on +12V is your supply rated for? 16 Amps in the minimum with a heated bed but 20AMPs is far better. Some powersupplies that have high wattage ratings overall (450-500W and up) actually do not have sufficient capacity on the 12V.by bytemedwb - Reprappers
Look at the PG35L Microextruder V4 on thingiverse. (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39098) I printed one at it looks to test fit fine on my Makerfarm I3 - I have not tested it yet as I am in the middle of a bunch of prints for my robotics team.by bytemedwb - Reprappers
Look good. The only thing I don't like is the hot-end. I can't tell without reading the manual but I would want to make sure that this printer could accept a J-Head or other common hot end. Read the assembly instructions make sure you are comfortable following them.by bytemedwb - Reprappers
Looks nice. Very similar to the Makerfarm I3 printers I use in my workshops. I like some of the accessibility of parts. It is hard to tell but it does not look like the X-carriage takes a standard extruder (e.g. Wades). The price from the suppliers you list seems high ($1100 CAD).by bytemedwb - Reprappers
Hmmm - I wonder if I could get my food dehydrator to work for this. Nylon is my next thing to attempt filament wise. What is a good source and price in the US?by bytemedwb - Reprappers
So one trick I have used for this is to pause the print after the first layer. Then, using a brush brush ABS juice over the first layer. You will end up really stuck to the glass. But when I have done this there has been no curling.by bytemedwb - Reprappers
I had this happen several times with normal window glass especially when I was using ABS juice. I have since moved to using borosilicate glass and painters tape The standard window glass is just not set up for both the thermal stress and the stress from parts shrinking when glued. I actually had one piece of glass that shattered while the part was cooling as it was stuck so hard.by bytemedwb - Reprappers
Also check you extruder calibration and extrusion multiplier. It looks like you are extruding too much filament. Also, it may be your filament - where did you get it? Some of the cheap brands on Ebay have behaved like that on me.by bytemedwb - General
On the guy with the belt problem - try reducing the acceleration. I found that helped on some prints. May help the original poster as well - it may be that the acceleration is overcoming the torque of the stepper causing skips.by bytemedwb - Reprappers
The thermister should read room temp normally. You could use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat it up to see the change. Probably a cany thermometer or other could be used to test accuracy. However, the thermister tables are pretty good if you are using one of the standard thermister types. You could also use a Ohm meter and measure the resistance and then use the thermister specs to calculateby bytemedwb - Reprappers
Grab the RAMPS download from (the might be embedded in the build document for the I3 there). Then if you hook up your motors you can test. Unless you disable Min-temp in the firmware you will not be able to test the heating functions without a thermistor. I would go ahead and wire up the thermistor from your J-head and you can then test that it is being read correctly by the firmware. Then wby bytemedwb - Reprappers