Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have added Purge and Retract to the Prepare menu > as well as the purge before Unloading. Looks like I better change my gears and get my Tantillus configuration in line with the latest units so that I can take advantage of these improvements.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I was also thinking about making the unload > function first extrude 15mm and then retract the > set length to ensure the flared end of the > filament is melted and will come out of the tube > easily. Have you guys found this to be needed? Great idea. Definitely useful. For example, I had a situation where tby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
I've gotten to the point that I rarely have to use Pronterface with my Tantillus. Printing from the SD card is a lot easier and more fool proof than depending on having my Mac connected to the printer all the time. I can do 'almost' everything necessary from the Tantillus front panel. The one exception that I've discovered so far is unloading filament completely. When I unload the filament stopsby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
I've started a new Tokyo 'meet-up' group for people interested in RepRap and related 3D printing. Japan RepRap, Makerbot, & 3D Printing Meetup Group We plan to have monthly meetings along with 'field trips' to events like Design Festa, Wonder Festival, and Maker Faire Tokyo. It's free to join and open to all.by Robots-Dreams - Japan, Tokyo RepRap User Group
pokey9000 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Congratulations! > > I'm itching to see the Tantillus do high frequency > infill like honeycomb or narrow rectilinear paths. > My Prusa sounds like a paint shaker when doing > these. You will be very pleasantly surprised, and pleased.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yeah I found it the most noticeable on the Maker > beam. You could see it get worse as the print got > higher and some would even come off the bed as > the force push and pulled it around near the top. The Maker beam might be a good test/calibration part to experiment with for this. Which one of the maker beamby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is most likey caused by the item having a small > base and it starts to get pushed around as it > prints because of the drag you get when printing > at low layer heights. To eliminate it you can add > some support struts to hold the item more securely > while printing and then remove them after. You >by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > At a guess it's a bent Z lead screw causing more > wobble as it the nut gets closer to the motor. > What sort of machine and what sort of Z coupler > are you using? Tantillus. It's a prototype unit, but essentially the same as those that are shipping now.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
I'm running into a strange problem with layers along the z-axis. If a part is relatively short - say under 30 mm tall, then the part surface is very smooth and the layers are almost indistinguishable. But, when I print a tall part, the taller the part the more distinguishable the layers become. A good (or bad) example is this Bag Handle part: It's 82 mm tall. I laid it down to photograph witby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
115200 works reliably. At 250000 I've never been able to sustain a reliable connection for more than just a couple minutes at most. Using Pronterface to setup the print and do general testing is fine. But I always do the printing from the SD card. That eliminates any possible communication problems and allows me to use the computer for other tasks, including disconnecting it mid-print. Keeping tby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: > As for what > Lem said about home being in the back corner, I > did this so when it returns to 0, 0 after printing > and you reach into the machine to get the part out > that you do not have to reach past the 200c hotend > and burn yourself. That was definitely the right design decision. The reason that I said that it took a bit of getting used to was that frby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
> Hi, Welcome! > I'm looking into building a MendelMax 1.5. > This will be my first attempt. It's a totally new field for most of us. I've only been designing/printing for a couple of months. > I live in > Akihabara. My Japanese isn't great, but I'm going > to try and locate as many parts as possible > locally before resorting to international mail > order. If anyby Robots-Dreams - Japan, Tokyo RepRap User Group
0,0,0 is the back right rear close to the gears on the right side of the printer. The orientation takes a bit of getting used to.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
You're likely to run into some serious problems hanging so much weight on the servo shafts. They aren't designed for a lot of torsional stress. Typically robot designers will add a dummy shaft on the back of the servo so that the weight is evenly distributed and the servo only has to deal with rotation movement.by Robots-Dreams - Robots!
You've done some really interesting work. I'm impressed. Any chance you would make it up to the Tokyo area sometime? I noticed that a lot of your RepRap projects were in San Diego. Will you be in Japan for a while?by Robots-Dreams - Japan, Tokyo RepRap User Group
> Anyone here still active? I'm here in Iwakuni and > would like to meet reprappers. Hi John, I'm in Chiba, close to Makuhari Messe. There are some other RepRappers I've been able to connect with in Japan, but there aren't a lot. Have you built a machine yet, or are you planning to build one?by Robots-Dreams - Japan, Tokyo RepRap User Group
Eric Young Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Looks like you're having all kinds of fun Definitely. > I had a look at the Treasure Chest model and those > bump snaps are pretty darn small. Glad to hear > they worked the first time around. They are quite small, to the point that I was concerned about them also. They probably work better in ABS since iby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
It's a pretty amazing printer. Small Treasure Chest (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27635). This was the first attempt and went much better than I expected. The lid fit perfectly with the hinges snapping into place. The 3D model was sliced with 150 micron layers and printed in PLA with no stringers or other problems. It did require about 1 minute of cleanup - mainly trimming a small overlby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
The Tantillus part quality continues to surprise and delight me.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
You won't get any argument from me. I agree totally.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
I won't spoil it by disclosing the punch line, but you're going to enjoy this one: RepRap Adventures #15 - Enough is Enoughby Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
> Found this on Thingiverse. > > Blue Thunder Body Kit > > It's a frame kit by ZaphodBeeblebrox. > > The drawing is pretty funny, and there aren't any > pictures of a completed working model, but the > plans 'look' like they could work. > > Anybody game enough to give it a go? Doesn't look like he got very far with it. Here's more information: Blue Thunder Rby Robots-Dreams - Robots!
> Most of the commercially available bots, such as > the Kondo's come in kits anyway. That's true. Starting with a commercial kit is a good choice since you have a reliable baseline. Getting humanoid robots to perform reliably can be a major challenge if you try to design one from scratch. > All we'd really need are the 3D models for the > brackets etc I think. Most of the availaby Robots-Dreams - Robots!
Thanks, Here's the spool of black PLA filament I ordered from him for the camera snoot: The spool OD is 16 cm with a 3.75 cm diameter opening. The spool is just over 9 cm wide (tall?) I'll try matching that to the holder dimensions.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
Thanks! I'm just getting up to speed on using Github and didn't think to look there. I'll download and print one out tonight.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
Could you post links to filament holders that will work with Tantillus? I'm particularly interested in the holder for the PLA supplied by Repraper (Simon) in China. I believe it's the same spool shown with Tantillus in the Coke Zero photo.by Robots-Dreams - Tantillus
Nice design, and a noble goal. I'm also excited about the extremely short prototyping cycle from idea to first part in a few hours or less. It's going to completely revolutionize design. As far as servos are concerned, it depends on the type of servo you select. The small, cheap (a relative term), hobby servos usually have nylon/plastic gears that will strip out easily. They really aren't desigby Robots-Dreams - Robots!
I tried checking out your project but the link is broken. Could you post the correct link, or link to your website? Thanksby Robots-Dreams - Robots!
Genie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For foreigners who live in Japan, it should be > hard to locate the good hardware shop and purchase > vitamins at reasonable price. I think that I'm > able to advice who confused to buy them and > stranded alone. > Cheers, > > Genie I live in Chiba near Makuhari Messe, but get into Tokyo several timeby Robots-Dreams - Japan, Tokyo RepRap User Group