Thank you Sublime, didn't have a clue how to help leboy. I never would have considered the motor being reversed. As for your extruder motor, what is the voltage of the motor driver? Mine was at least twice what my axis motors were.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
I realize you want to use a RUMBA, but does the control board used really matter that much? I was under the impression most of the boards were essentially interchangeable, with just a few tweaks to the firmware...marlin / sprinter / repeiter. So couldn't you also use the RUMBA on the Kossel? Perhaps you could mount the board outside the frame on the 3DR?by Kurzaa - Delta Machines
I like the look of the Azteeg 5 and I think it is 32 bit which should keep it around a while. Though I have only used ramps.by Kurzaa - Controllers
I am new to 3D printing, but I was told that the tantillus was an older design with a few flaws to it. Was there a reason it was recommended for you? What kind of budget do you have?by Kurzaa - Tantillus
Try M119 to check your endstops. If all the motors are working, I would guess that the X and Y endstops are either plugged into min plugs rather than the max plugs, or that they are reporting high (triggered) rather than low like the Z axis. Can you move the X and Y motors at all when not plugged into the Z axis?by Kurzaa - Reprappers
The nice thing about the Prusa i3 is that there are so many variants that there are lots of instructions to supplement your vendors. I am sure plenty of individuals would be happy to help you out if you post a video of your issues, though you might want to provide something more descriptive then it is acting funnny. Are you confident that you have it together correctly? Did you recieve actual fiby Kurzaa - Reprappers
QuoteregpyeGet yourself a spare red multimeter probe, they are very cheap. Make the probe tip into a small screw driver and then when you make the adjustment to the driver board you will also be able to read the voltage, no balancing act needed. Modify a spare black multimeter lead so that it has a pin end that can be plugged into a GRD socket (spare driver board socket for instance.) and then yby Kurzaa - RAMPS Electronics
Have you adjusted the voltage on the motor drivers? It is possible that only the Z-motor is getting enough voltage. Try attaching a multi-meter in the range of 2V to each polou driver. I put the black lead to the ground of the power supply with the red lead to the metal on the potentiometer. I believe I set my motors each to 0.4V, the extruder to 0.8V. Also make sure you have good connections toby Kurzaa - Reprappers
On my motor drivers, I am able to read and adjust the voltage to the meters with a multimeter. The black probe (gnd) went to the ground wire on my power supply for convienence and a little balancing act (aligator clips would have been nice). The red probe went to the potentiometer (metal) on the driver board. With the meter set to 2V (?) I was able to read the current voltage with the USB pluggedby Kurzaa - RAMPS Electronics
Does a Kossel use screws for leveling? If not, try checking out videos from Jay Corture (?). He has a couple on getting your bed level, and from what I have read while trying to level my Rostock Mini, it is better to level the bed first then use the auto-level as a sanity check.by Kurzaa - Delta Machines
I have heard that the polyfuses (?) on chinese boards aren't always up to spec and that some individuals just replace them with fuses from an auto shop. Glad it is working for you.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
Did you adjust the voltage on the motor drivers? If it just started to work, or possibly started working after resetting the RAMPs board, I had a similar issue because the motor wires I terminated myself sucked. Glad you got it working.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
I would try Viktor's advice first, I am new and not sure what your issue might be. If that doesn't work though, try M119 (?) to make sure the endstops are correctly configured. Consider using a multi-meter to carefully check the current on your stepper motors, perhaps they are too high or low.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
I thought the pneumatic push-fittings used for bowden extruders were a plumbing item. That or possibly part of the fittings used for the icemakers in refrigerators. Haven't tried myself, but may check out you local home improvement store and ask for help? I also bought one for myself before I fully understood what it was for from SeeMeCNC who sell Orions and the Rostock Max.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
I used two large binder clips on my build plate, though it reduces the size of the print area...fan was hitting one of the clips, hence only using two clips. Still trying to get my printer working consistently, but I don't recall any printer specific slic3r settings. At least none that weren't obvious. Of course filament temperatures and retraction speeds all need to be figured out as part of thby Kurzaa - Delta Machines
What MrDoctorDIV said. I think the extruder motor is the one motor you don't want to skip on. If weight is an issue, have you considered looking at a bowden setup? You lose some torque, but I believe you make it up with the gearing reduction.by Kurzaa - General
$17 sounds like a decent price for the arduino mega. When pairing it with the ramps board, I did have to trim a few solder joints on mine to get the board to fit over the mega's barrel connector, but I don't think it was a big deal. And I am heavily debating myself on whether to pick up a heated bed for my Rostock or to wait and build a cartisian printer (i3) at a later date.by Kurzaa - General
Still new to 3D printing myself. I started with a Rostock Mini Pro from 3D Czar for $460 with free shipping that I am still playing with after three months. While I believe the Rostock was easier to put together than an i3 variant, I think the i3 is easier to get calibrated and running in the long run, so I wouldn't recommend the Rostock for a first printer. As for printer prices, I think the Prby Kurzaa - General
QuoteLittleMikeMy head is spinning from all I've been reading. Haha. I thought ABS went up to 260C? Also, how does the printrbot handle being able to do both materials? Their user guide says it can do it and says all you have to do is set the temperature on the extruder to the proper one. I am still to new to know specifics, you are probably right about ABS. But I think the main difference betweby Kurzaa - General
QuoteA few questions - ABS vs PLA. I know ABS makes sturdier prints, but the fumes are toxic while PLA makes "softer" prints but is biodegradable (supposedly). What determines what I can print? Is it the hotend? In other words, if I want to try my hand at building an i3 Rework, will I be limited to one type or the other, or will I be able to print using both materials? Tool wise, I think the maiby Kurzaa - General
Not to steal the thread, but are the strings between objects / edges normal? This is a constant issue with my Rostock Mini and I am not sure if I should speed it up, slow it down, are there minimum speeds needed for good prints, etc... And at first when you mentioned waves in your prints, I was thinking something more along the horizontal axis rather than the vertical. The last time I tried toby Kurzaa - Delta Machines
Interesting find on the i3 rework, though keep in mind that the shipping on a 10kg printer (does that include the filament?) is close to $170 for US shipping. Personally, if I had to do everything over again, I think I would have gone with the PrintrBot simple. The wooden kit is unassembled, giving me an idea how everything works, and I could always scavenge it to build an i3 down the road for tby Kurzaa - General
I bought a Rostock Mini Pro kit from 3D Czar this spring, which is pretty much the limit of my experience. I will say that while I think it was easier to build then an i3, I am finding the calibration and such of the Rostock more difficult then what the i3 might have provided. So I am spending a lot more time on the "build" of the printer then on actually printing things. As a result, I would suby Kurzaa - General
I am using Repeiter-Host with Repeiter 0.91 firmware. Not sure if it will work with your printer, however I did have an issue compiling the code. I think the problem had something to do with the final size of the compiled code causing problems. Something along the lines of "if the final file size ends in a 2, fail". Obviously that wasn't the problem, just a simplified example of what I thought waby Kurzaa - Delta Machines
One of the issues I encountered was with my end connections. Appearently I suck at terminating wires. Once I picked up a racheting crimping tool, all of my connections were a lot smoother. I think this also caused my motors to "malfunction" at times as a result which made troubleshooting more difficult. I realized the issue with my end stops using the M119 command to give their current state. Yoby Kurzaa - Delta Machines
As an ignorant bystander, I am curious how moving to closed-source but still giving away software is beneficial to Repetier. Wouldn't it be better to charge a small fee for the binary and keep the application open source? As vreihen mentioned, most users only care about the binary and, at least in my case, wouldn't be able to compile the source regardless.by Kurzaa - Repetier
When my motors were grinding, I think the issue was the connections on the motors. I did a terible job of crimping. After redoing all of the ends, they started working fine consistantly. Another idea is to reset Ramps after connecting to the printer. EDIT: Are you sure you have the endstops plugged into the right pins?by Kurzaa - Delta Machines
I don't know if this helps, but my Z motor has only been moving in one direction since I moved my printer. Last night I discovered a GCode command, M119 I think, that requests the status of the endstops. Realized that regardless of direction, the Z endstop was always high...I suck at crimping appearently. Then again, since your endstop is on a PCB board, polarity might matter and you shorted somby Kurzaa - Delta Machines