David J, it was stainless steel cut from onlinemetals.com. The sensor does pick up the stainless steel but not as far as the galvanized. For some reason, my inductive sensor can pick up my stainless steel paint scraper from a good distance, which was where I got the idea to try a piece of steel under the glass. One thing i noticed is that my inductive sensor can pick up the galvanized steel sheby gyronictonic - Reprappers
An aluminum plate under a 1/8" thick glass won't work, however, a galvanized steel sheet will. I believe the zinc has something to do with it because I tried polished steel sheets and the probe couldn't sense through the thick glass.by gyronictonic - Reprappers
Try here! *Edit* Sorry got confused with Wallace with Wally.by gyronictonic - General
You can download the E3D mount adapter and it will fit under the Wade Extruder (50mm center to center). Depending on your Wade, you will need to plug up the hotend mount hole so the filament doesn't buckle between the mount adapter and Wade Extruder, maybe print a plug with a small hole for the filament to go through.by gyronictonic - General
Released not too long ago but the X Gantry dimensions are the same as the Prusa I3 which will make it compatible with the Makerfarm I3.by gyronictonic - Reprappers
Your RAMPS board might be overheating. Place a fan and see if that makes a difference.by gyronictonic - General
What makes this different from Gcode Simulator?by gyronictonic - General
oooooh you're right, I see it now. That makes a lot more sense and I see your point now. I was going about on their CAD drawings, had me thinking otherwise.by gyronictonic - General
So this is the Orca v0.43 This is definitely a X Head, YZ configuration The one on kickstarter, the bed is fixed to the bottom base. You can clearly see the two smooth rods fastened to the base. Even if they do admit it looks like an Orca, does it still make it a copy cat design? Just looks like they modified it to something they believed is a superior setup. I mean, you can say the same thingby gyronictonic - General
possenier Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > to me, this looks like a copy cat: > > -color-material-3d-filament-printer-made-in-canad? > ref=live > > it's just a copy of the mendel parts orca > printer. > i would not care if they do this, if they at least > state that on their front page, what they don't > do. I'm not familiar with thby gyronictonic - General
This is cool but I feel like it's going to get buried if this doesn't get stickied soon. No way to find it on the RepRap Wiki page and if it's not on the first page of the forum, it's going to the abyss. Hell, I'll put a bounty up if someone can setup a RepRap page on WIKIA and make a reasonable layout. RepRap Wiki could sure use the tab and drop down features to organize the information.by gyronictonic - General
I designed a direct drive extruder paired with a E3D groove mount base. It was designed to fit on X Carriages using the Wade extruder mount standard (50mm center to center). Although this was designed for Vert X printers but can also work with horizontal X setup. You can also check out tbordino's direct drive setup which seems more ideal for horizontal X printers. You can still pair my E3D grby gyronictonic - General
Have you posted this on GrabCAD? Pretty sure a lot of 3d modelers would be willing to tackle this competition.by gyronictonic - General
It may be worth your while to invest in some tools to make the parts fit. Recommended tools: - Files - X-acto knife - Reamer - 1/8" drill bit can be substituted for 3mm holes - 5/32" drill bit can be substituted for 4mm holes - 8mm drill bit for 5/16" holes (you don't want to use 5/16" drill bits to insert 8mm smooth rods) - Mask if you need to sandpaper the parts down, especially if it's ABSby gyronictonic - Reprappers
Complete thread but I could always start a new one if that's easier.by gyronictonic - Reprappers
Could an admin move this post to the development thread? I would like to post updates without clogging up this thread. Just like to post a blog post on my new 3DPrintMi Plus version and a new direct drive extruder I'm developing. Also, congrats to luisimomaximo for being the first to build and print with the 3DPMi!by gyronictonic - Reprappers
I recently tried the new slic3r 9.10b and I noticed the infills were pretty sparse on thin parts. It doesn't seem to fill them completely, just a squiggly line. I haven't even change any settings and re-slicing with 9.9 gave me better and desirable infills. Was there a change in the infill process between 9.9 and 9.10b?by gyronictonic - Slic3r
Congrats to qharley for taking the gada prize!by gyronictonic - Kartik M. Gada Humanitarian Innovation Prize
For the construction side, I could list a few things I came across during my build 1. A good way to know that your X Gantry is aligned with the Z linear rods is to do a drop test. Just move the X Gantry up and quickly move your hands down to see if it's binding or not. 2. Grease up the LM8UU before installing the linear rods. 3. Check if the linear rods are chamfered. This prevents the linearby gyronictonic - Reprappers
I might actually try using a blower fan like that but retrofit an amico coolant nozzle attached to it. May not pump a lot of air but it's enough to cool it down.by gyronictonic - Reprappers
Do you mean the fan blowing at the sink? I have it running at 12V and the PLA continues to clog. Drilling out the stainless steel tube wider and applying thermal paste to the heatsink only gave me 40 minutes of printing before it clogs again. I think the swelling occurs right above the heat break and if that's what you're talking about then yes, placing a fan right at the heat break stops the PLAby gyronictonic - Reprappers
Hey everyone, I've been working on this reprap design since December 2012 and I'm releasing all the files under GPL. I have already built two of these so it can self replicate without a problem. Would love to see this reprap built somewhere else around the world and mods to improve the design.by gyronictonic - Reprappers
Hairspray and then smear a thin coat of Elmer's glue-stick on bare glass, no kapton tape.by gyronictonic - General
This might help.by gyronictonic - General
I don't think extruding aluminum and layering on top of each other is going to work. Aluminum and all metals are not amorphous and it will never act like ABS/PLA when heated to it's liquid state. Once aluminum reaches melting temperature, it will simply flow like water and you will get a big mess. Amorphous materials can go from solid to a rubber like state hence the glass transition and this isby gyronictonic - Developers
Running a printrbot + here. Pretty much dialed it in and printing at .2mm layer height consistently. Put a lot of hours into my bot so i could give you a hand if you need help. Also, if you need a replacement part just let me know. Im based here in downtown boston.by gyronictonic - Massachusetts, Boston RepRap User Group
A paint drawing of what you're trying to achieve would be helpful. Are you trying to do something like this?by gyronictonic - General
Are you adding dimensions to your sketch or just moving them manually? Add dimensions with the dimension tool from the leg to the origin. In your case, you input 27 as the distance which adds up to 54 sine its mirrored. Same method for the top. I use solidworks a lot, i can take a stab at it later today.by gyronictonic - General
I've been getting similar results with my Printrbot lately. For a while, I thought it was a software thing but now I narrowed it down to my Z axis rod being off alignment. I think what happened is that I over tightened my X axis belt causing my X carriage rails to slightly bend thus making my z rods spin at an angle.by gyronictonic - Printing