When you say "nothing is happening" do you mean that nothing moves at all? Or does the print head move but no plastic is coming out? Do you have any software that can send G code commands to the printer or is it all being worked through the LCD? Where did the file to print the cube come from? Was it already on the card when you bought the printer? Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
I'm in Bristol too so can collect if that makes it easier ... Put me down for three kg of white ABS and a kg of black PLA then Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
Sorry didn't mean to sound like I was getting at you ... I was aiming squarely at the copywriters at Excelvan It does look like a very good mic for the money and one is now winging its way to me, est delivery Monday , too cheap not to give it a punt really Thanks for the DIY link, interesting stuff! Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
Condenser Mic with neodymium magnet to improve SNR??? Hmmm... must be some new sort of technology Too much copy paste by someone who knows nothing about what they are selling when putting up listings I suppose. Excelvan sounds like a great name for a courier though. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
That OHSpark link gives me a 404 error I'm afraid.by Zedsquared - General
Here's how to do that with Slic3r:by Zedsquared - General
It could be an interference issue, try twisting the fan wires together or running them away from where they are now. A fan at 100% is powered by DC whereas when PWMing the power is being chopped and will introduce high frequency harmonics that can radiate more.by Zedsquared - General
A quick google of "Tungsten carbide nozzle" seems to imply a sandblasting nozzle, though 1mm seems pretty narrow and 0.8mm pretty short... maybe that's the point, they need to make a sand blasting nozzle that's not usually available. But that's mostly conjecture of courseby Zedsquared - General
This might be what you're after:by Zedsquared - General
I personally don't trust my (or any other ) printer enough to sleep with it on! You should think about a smoke alarm at least, lest you wake up dead one day.by Zedsquared - General
Check the PSU connectors to RAMPS are still good perhaps? Look out for any signs of heat/browning. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
If you want the printer to interpret and run Python as well as G-code then you would need printer firmware that includes a python interpreter. The only thing I can think of that would do that would be a redeem setup: What do you want to achieve?by Zedsquared - General
Try adjusting Z height on the printer (or Z offset if your slicer has it) to squish a bit more perhaps?by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Just reporting on on my printbite experience with PETG, again no real problems. I run the bed at 70C and it grips fine, the only difference it it doesn't release quite as completely as ABS and PLA seem to when the bed has cooled. It's still easy to remove the part though. I ran the bed at 110C with PETG once (accidentally used an ABS gcode file) and that was solidly stuck on until the bed had cooby Zedsquared - General
To be fair, I saw braveheart's first post and also assumed it to be link spam that forgot the link... read this amusing article to get some background to why someone might think that: (Now I read that back and it too looks like linkspam! you can't win ) Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
I've been using PrintBite on my Kossel Mini for a month now and it is just great! No more potions all over the surface, just a swipe with window cleaner every now and then. I've only tried ABS (115 C bed temp works for me) and PLA (60C) but even fiddly prints with little contact patches like chainmail stick fine throughout the print and then fall off when the bed cools below about 30C The onlyby Zedsquared - General
On the E3D website they say going above 300 will damage the thermistor, I think people use thermocouples for sensing above that.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Some basic things to check: Make sure you steppers are wired in correctly, one wire in the wrong place, or not making contact, will cause juddery movements. Do not unplug the motors when you are powering the electronics or you could blow the drivers! Use the M119 command to make sure your end stops are working and wired correctly, your firmware might not allow movement if they are showing triggeby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Well I'm no Marlin expert but that looks reasonable to me, you have #define Delta in there so it should be using Delta homing. First thing to check is that your homing sensors are behaving correctly, issue an M119 command and the printer should respond back with the state of all the end stops. Manually trigger the switches, reissuing the M119 command each time and make sure that each switch showby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
It sounds like your electronics are trying to home like a normal cartesian printer. depending on your firmware you will probably need to set a variable somewhere to tell it it is a delta. let us know what board and firmware you are running and someone can probably help. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
With the latest flex3drive the filament is clamped to the hobb by a quick release cam lever. So it's really easy to just flip the lever to unlock it and push filament through by hand, you don't need to turn anything. I suppose you'd have to be careful not to move the carriage while doing that though. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
Ah, I see, we're just looking at the difference between the trigger point and when the head touches, so the starting Z height before the Z move down until trigger happens doesn't matter.by Zedsquared - Delta Machines
QuoteWhatever the cause, in RepRapFirmware you can measure the trigger height at each probe point and correct for it in the bed.g file. Tedious, but it works. Isn't this a bit of a chicken and egg problem though... before you calibrate you can't be sure that the effector is going to be moving flat as you go to the different probe points in order to determine what the correction should be in ordeby Zedsquared - Delta Machines
Hi nebbian, here's a pic of the flex3drive very recently installed on my kossell mini. Pretty easy to fit as it is it's own effector (for the kossel mini at least,YMMV on other deltas) I just had to get some M3 studding to replace the existing six bolts holding on the diagonal rods. Mutley3d may well be including this studding in future kits now. The existing web site instructions are for theby Zedsquared - General
That seem to be indicating that the arduino environment is having trouble with the comment on that line, try just deleting everything on that line after the first // so it just reads: #define SDSS 31 Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
> I'm not very sure about the connection between the jerk settings, acceleration and speed. When does it all come into play? Acceleration = rate of change of speed Jerk = rate of change of accelerationby Zedsquared - General
Dodgy hot end connector at the electronics end perhaps? Also check for cracked wires by wiggling. What value did you get for hot end resistance? it should be low, under 10 ohms I'd imagine. If your meter is auto-ranging the it might have jumped up to the mega ohms range without you noticing and you were, in fact, measuring your skin resistance. Cheers, Robin.by Zedsquared - General
these folks: might be able to tell you something about filament transitions.by Zedsquared - General
The problem is more likely to be that something (either hot end or heated bed) is taking too many amps, not that the PSU can supply it. Or to use a metaphor: it's the faulty tap that causes the flood in your house, not the big reservoir at the end of the pipes! I'd check for a short circuit on the hotend or the wiring to it. If you have a heated build bed, check that also. It's likely that a prby Zedsquared - Delta Machines