I would just dust it off then try it and see. I wouldn't personally expect it to have deteriorated if it has been indoors. Some filaments may have taken up moisture.by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
is one option I looked at. I decided to build an engraver separately for ease of use. Banggood has some good deals on lasers and control boards.by Ralph.Hilton - General
I would build it as it is and get a replacement. It will cause a small deformation of prints but probably not noticeable for most things. I would put the bend at the top end.by Ralph.Hilton - Prusa i3 and variants
For €36 you can get 4 clones including shipping. I don't think that there will be a large market for something that is not difficult to do oneself.by Ralph.Hilton - General
Andy - for PLA I set the bed to 75C which measures 60C on top of the glass. For PETG I set the bed at 90C. For PLA some glass cleaners can reduce adhesion. White vinegar works well.by Ralph.Hilton - General
I wanted the lid of the Titan facing the front but it required major surgery of the frame. The parts I printed are atby Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
You can print straight onto the glass - no need for glue. Then you should have no problem.by Ralph.Hilton - General
You will get different prices for different qualities of kit. If you want something reliable then is the best I have seen. There are many variants on the Prusa i3 and many kits advertised as such bear only a small resemblance to the official version above. If you buy a cheap kit you can expect to spend a lot of time and effort replacing sub standard parts. Switching nozzle sizes is fairly easy wby Ralph.Hilton - Prusa i3 and variants
I have been pondering this for a while and today while figuring out how to fit the Titan E3D decided to go for it. I took out the dibond in the centre and added a piece of extrusion. I need to tidy up my hacksaw work. It leaves space for the motor to sit further back so that the Titan can be placed with the lid at the front. It also makes it far easier to get the dibond for a machine. Several cby Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
8.8k is not available as a standard resistor but you can make one close enough by combining 10k and 82k in parallel.by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
You can wire in additional resistors to bring down the 10k resistors to 4.7k which is easier than replacing the smd resistors. 10k plus 82k in parallel are needed across each 10k resistor. The top right connector pin on the board gives access to one side of the resistors and the lower screw connector of the thermistor connectors to the other.by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
I just ordered a Titan extruder and it looks as if the existing dsub connection is a bit large for the way I want to fit the Titan. I came up with a single part version that is a lot smaller. It just uses 4 bolts from the original so no additional parts are needed.by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
PETG is an excellent alternative to ABS that doesn't warp and has good adhesion:by Ralph.Hilton - General
A dust filter on the filament input can help as blockages are sometimes caused by dust build up. The cooling fan for the heatsink needs to be on all the time. I didn't like the small fan that came with the E3D so fitted a 40mm fan which is much quieter. Heat creep and jamming can be caused by turning the fan off after printing. It should be kept on until the heatblock has cooled down.by Ralph.Hilton - General
I use borosilicate glass for PLA and PETG. Increasing the bed temperature helps. If I set the heat bed to 75C then the top of the glass is about 60C which gives good adhesion. I find clean glass important. Vinegar works for me. Standard glass cleaner somehow destroys the adhesion. For larger parts that give adhesion problems I have used balsamic vinegar on the plate.by Ralph.Hilton - Prusa i3 and variants
To quieten a machine down - 1. An enclosure 2. A block of styrofoam to sit it on. 3. DRV8825 steppers. If it has slowly become louder then I would suspect that something is getting progressively looser or is suffering from lack of lubrication.by Ralph.Hilton - General Mendel Topics
That printer is too small. It prints only an 80mm radius circle.by Ralph.Hilton - General
Heat the heatblock to the maximum temperature it can tolerate and then retighten the nozzle. That will give a better seal at operating temperature. If it still oozes then buy a better one atby Ralph.Hilton - General
Quotedasflux Well thanks a lot guys. Well, is there a good resource or place where we are ordering out parts for the frame should I choose to build? Or are we all using ali? I want a large build area. How large?by Ralph.Hilton - General
I'll post the pics here as although it looks a lot different it is more of a Mendel90 derivative than anything else:by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
Perhaps the Y carriage wasn't seated properly and now is. If I get something like that happening then I check the whole machine for loose parts. I would check the z calibration with the X and Y carriages at each corner which will narrow the possibities.by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
Perhaps the heater wires have changed since I built mine 3 years ago. I would try the other one. My fan stays on all the time. PLA will melt, as mentioned. PETG would be my choice or polycarbonate. I'm not sure about Tglaze but it would be better than PLA.by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
No, the fan should be on all the time. It sounds as if it is wired incorrectly. What you are describing would happen connected to the wrong heater wire.by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
A zero reading on the hotend temp suggests that the thermistor is disconnected somehow. The fan needs to be on continuously including after printing until the hotend is cool to avoid heat creeping up. The fan is probably polarity conscious so needs to be reversed to change the air flow direction.by Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
The fan for the extruder needs to be on all the time so should be connected to the main power line.by Ralph.Hilton - General Mendel Topics
Danlad - The fan can be connected to the left connector marked P P and the left H. For the E3D the thermistor type needs to be changed to 5 in the config.hby Ralph.Hilton - Mendel90
That's how I did mine too :-)by Ralph.Hilton - Reprappers
I print PETG with 245° nozzle and the bed at 100° thermistor setting (about 85° on the top of the glass.) A print cooling fan is not needed. I get excellent adhesion on clean glass without any tape/glue. I have used 3 brands of PETG: supply PETG to order, any specified colour in 5kg quantity. REAL PETG eSUN I have had no problems with the first 2. The eSun PETG gives poorer first layer adhesioby Ralph.Hilton - General
Printing with PETG could be an alternative.by Ralph.Hilton - General
PETG is great - I have been using it for quite a while. have a selection of colors. can supply any custom color at a good price in 5kg quantity. email analucia@ecoreprap.com .by Ralph.Hilton - General