Will this work ok on a 300mm x 300mm build plate - my use case is CoreXY, so the Z plane that the hot end operates in doesn't ever change.by powool - General
QuotePutzer Received 20 sets of wheels for 32$ total. Includes wheel, 2 bearings, washer, shim, shaft and lock nut a set. 1.60$ per set. Can you share where you got these from? The best I can seem to find is around US$3/wheel.by powool - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I successfully used the RAMPS-FD, and although it is definitely beta-quality, it was a good board until I destroyed it (a high power stepper driver blew up and took out a bunch of other stuff with it). If you read the comments in this thread, you can figure out how to make reasonably good use of it. However, like most 3D printer controller boards, it is dangerous to leave it alone for any lengtby powool - Controllers
I'm thinking of implementing a secondary safety arduino that is programmed as simply as possible to shut down as much as it can (extruder heater, bed heater, stepper motors) under the following kinds of conditions: - thermistor goes open circuit (e.g. wire break) - extruder heater continuously on for more than X seconds (have to experiment - depends on PID values, etc) - don't receive a heartby powool - Safety & Best Practices
Several projects inspired me to try the CoreXY belts on two planes - one stepper and its belt gets one plane, the other stepper and its belt gets the other plane. The sole problem I saw in prototyping mine is that the belt comes close to rubbing when the Y axis bar is farthest from the steppers. I solved that by using two different size pulleys - both made with flanged bearings, but one pair waby powool - CoreXY Machines
Quotejaguarking11 Just to clarify, what kind of firmware would support the DUE/Ramps combo? I have not seen much if anything support that particular setup. Anyone? I would love to try this thing at some point. I've been using repetier on my Due/RAMPS-FD with no serious problems. I also had tried aprinter, which I chose not to use - I think because I wanted to use repetier host, and obviously thaby powool - Controllers
I've been running a 40mm extrusion framed, ball screw, nema-23 driven design for 4 months or so now (I'll try and get a real picture, but it basically looks exactly like Cinnerman's above). I used cheap 1204 ball screws, but compensated for slow screw rate with fast nema-23 steppers (low resistance, low inductance coils, run them at 48volts) and decent stepper controllers from massmind.org. Herby powool - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotemynamesriz Hi All, Has anyone else had issues connecting to this board? The only firmware I can get working is aprinter (Which is great!) but I would like to try Repetier. I can upload it fine to both my Udoo Due and Arduino due (compatible) but I can't connect to it from either OS X or ubuntu. It just hangs when I'm trying to connect. I've definitely set the right baudrate and am connectingby powool - Controllers
I found the DRV8825 to be quite noisy and fussy to work with, but I may have had too-cheap stepper drivers, or I didn't work with them long enough. I am using them in a similar capacity - under driving high current (low resistance) NEMA 23 steppers, so I felt like that was part of the issue, as when I used a smaller NEMA 17 stepper, the drivers would work fine. You might consider the massmind.oby powool - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I'm using the Geetech Due with RAMPS-FD and current Reptier-Firmware without trouble. If a filament stepper isn't moving, besides the obvious wiring problems, that can happen if the firmware is configured to not allow moving the filament when the thermistor reads below a certain temp (180 degreesC in my case). If an X/Y/Z stepper isn't moving, besides the extensive wiring problems one can haveby powool - Controllers
Although I'm able to use my RAMPS-FD, I wish there was a RAMPS/RADDS style board that was designed primarily to interface to breakout boards that handled the power (stepper or heater). I'd really like to split it that way to make it easier to plug and play with different stepper controllers and ideally even the processor itself to optimize my printer. For the breakout boards, I'd design them toby powool - Controllers
For what it is worth, I'm happily using the later Geetech board (the one with actual fuses). In my case, I'm using 5 volt VCC, and I had to hack the board slightly to make the hot end thermistor work correctly. I'm doing this because I use Massmind THB6064AH stepper controllers which are 5V only. Most people won't have to do this. I am not using a heated bed yet, so I do not know about the qualby powool - Controllers
On my 3mm bowden E3D, I have to run the fan all the time, and when a print is ended, make sure that I retract - I do it manually when I abort a print. If either of those conditions is not met, I get jams, apparently due to heat soaking up past the heat brake and deforming the filament there. My jam rate went way down once I did those two things.by powool - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quote_Adrian_ Quotebobc Be aware that Rev 1A of RAMPS-FD has some undesirable issues, but is still usable (and surprisingly cheap). Rev 2a is nearing finalisation, but I can't guarantee it will go into production, although hopefully some Chinese manufacturer will pick it up. How do you tell the revisions apart ?? ( Besides markings ) Also whats the compatibility with the LCD kit from the RAMPSby powool - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotecnc dick Now that is a shame you didn't research a little bit more on using ballscrews for printer I'm a big advocate of using them but the ones you chose are absolutely no good. At 4 mm per turn it's going to be the slowest 3-D printer ever made you need at least 16mm per turn anby powool - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I haven't seen this done, yet - I choose 8020 40mm x 40mm extrusion, laid ground and polished 6mm (or 1/4 inch) in the T slots, used 3 SG20 U groove ball bearings, the makerslide aluminum plate and adjusting nut, and put it all together. I seems to work quite well - the aluminum extrusion I bought was very straight (seemed to be on the order of .001 over 455mm of the 40x40). With ground and poby powool - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I'm about 2/3 of the way through something similar to what Gordie proposes and Tired2 is doing (I have similar motivations as Gordie wrote). A thought I had recently, while trying to hand make parts to get the printer up and running so I can print the final parts is this: Doing a nice job of a combo printer/light mill would have been a lot easier if I had a small decent quality 3D printer. So,by powool - Extruded Aluminum Frames