Quotebigsub Hello to all, I'm interested in modifying my ender 3 with belt on z and worm gear. So, did you complete the job? b. Yes, the job is complete but we've been extremely busy fulfilling flex plate and magnet orders.by klcjr89 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist What parts did you end up using? Pictures? Hello, I used the same parts I posted earlier in this thread from KHK gears; the 40:1 worm gear set. I made the belt path as you suggested with two individual belts.by klcjr89 - General
I finished the belted Z axis upgrade yesterday and it works! I had to reduce my Z velocity to 6mm/s though, which is fine I think.by klcjr89 - General
Quotemartin1454 Quoteclaustro thank you I am asking a quote for this 2 gears but I am thinking if would be possible to use a 5mm bore worms with a 8 mm gear. With this measure you can directly attach the worms to a standard nema 17 motors while using a 8mm for the shaft. I you need to purchase them, look at I just ordered : Was cheaper and easier than from KHKs own page. Misumi sells Kby klcjr89 - General
The Rino is also too big for a printer like the Ender-3.by klcjr89 - General
Quoteobelisk79 @Claustro For gears, I think these would work well: AG1-30R1J8 SWG1-R1 the 8mm bore means you could use inexpensive and readily available long leadscrews and 8mm bore belt pulleys instead of trying to source long pieces of 5mm shaft. I wouldn't want to use a leadscrew as a shaft.by klcjr89 - General
QuoteWesBrooks Ah, that makes more sense now. I had a similar issue recently trying to get a open source acrylic laser cut frame processed here in the uk only to find the acrylic used was what is in the uk an odd ball imperial size! :-D This was the longest I could find: Luckily it fits the Ender perfectly so the pulleys will line up with where I want.by klcjr89 - General
QuoteWesBrooks You're aware of the risk, that's all that I wanted to raise. Yes, I guessed there were already two bearings in the block, but spreading these wider apart on the shaft would stiffen the assembly dramatically for minimal increase in print time. There's only so much room available with the longest 5mm shaft I could source in the USA. It's quite disappointing.by klcjr89 - General
QuoteWesBrooks There's goingtobe a fair measure of twist on that stub axle from the belt tension. Except there isn't. There's already two bearings in one block and putting weight on a pulley doesn't yield any causes for concern.by klcjr89 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I'm no fan of flat plate printed plastic motor mounts, and I'm not too sure about separating the motor mount/worm gear from the disc gear. The last thing you want is for the relative positions of the gears to change under load because that will change the position of whatever is being lifted by the belt(s). Flimsy motor and disc gear mounts will flex and do just that.by klcjr89 - General
Quoteclaustro I am following this very interesting thread. @klcjr89 can I ask you haw much you payed for the worm gear and the gear? thank you Andrea The part numbers are in the pic: You can google them to find the best price for your country. Edit: US prices:by klcjr89 - General
Finished designing the bearing blocks and stepper motor mount.by klcjr89 - General
All of the parts, shaft, and bearings have arrived for the conversion. I just need to design some bearing blocks and some adapters for the left and right gantry plates so the belts can fit in them.by klcjr89 - General
The worm gear and worm have arrived, and I must say the quality is very good.by klcjr89 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist No difference that I have seen with 300 x300 mm plates. Is it worth going thicker on printer beds exceeding 300mm^2?by klcjr89 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist In a printer that throws the heavy bed back and forth on the Y axis, or lifts it in the Z axis, I think wide belts are a good idea. If you're lifting the relatively lightweight X axis and the belts aren't going to be very long, 6mm wide belts should be fine. Mark, off topic but speaking of the bed, is there much of a difference when switching from a 1/4" thick Mic-6 bedby klcjr89 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist A 20 tooth pulley will move the bed 40 mm per rev. The motor is 200 steps/rev. 200/40 is 5 steps per mm. If it usteps at 16:1, 5 x 16 = 80 usteps/mm. If you use a 40:1 worm gear drive, 80 x 40 = 3200 usteps/mm. Mark, thank you! Off topic, but I noticed you said you are using 9mm belts. Are 6mm inadequate? I saw in another thread you are in that even the 6mm 2GT Gateby klcjr89 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Just divide by the gear ratio. Example: a 40 tooth pulley moves 80 mm/rev of the output shaft. Output shaft turns once for 20 turns of motor shaft. 20 turns of the motor shaft is 20 x200=4000 full steps. 16 usteps per full step means 4000x16= 64000 usteps moves the bed or x axis 80 mm. 64000/80 = 800 usteps/mm. 800/16 = 50 full steps/mm, so you'll want to set layer thicknby klcjr89 - General
Quotewarbunniex If ya wanna try to make the worm gear yourself, I got a step file right here & a link to an imgur page explaining how to model your own. i think my worm gear here is only 1:13. As I said, I ordered a Japanese worm set. Chinese and printed gears don't seem that great.by klcjr89 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist One of the early versions of the Z axis in my corexy printer was made with a single belt lifting two ends of the bed support, and had a worm gear to stop the bed from dropping. Mark, I was hoping you would reply and I'm glad you did! I will consider everything you talked about. Since I haven't committed to any particular design, I have plenty of time to figure it out.by klcjr89 - General
Hello, I am wanting to convert my Ender-3's Z axis to belt drive. I would like to ask if this quick mockup of the belt path would work. It will be single motor driven and will utilize a worm gear to prevent falling of the Z axis. There will be four toothed pulleys and two smooth idlers. Please note that I didn't model the worm gear area, this post is mainly about the belt path. Pulleys, idlersby klcjr89 - General
These are highly debated to use on a printer. I can't seem to find the article or thread that talks about them causing loss of print quality because the stepper is not rigidly mounted to the frame.by klcjr89 - General
Quotescoot QuoteEgonVLC ... Having a second thought, if I mount the motor centered under the bed, with the leadscrew "looking down", I could use just that one, but the printer height should acomodate that double z height... But it's not practical nor elegant, and I don't really know even if it would work. I did this and it actually works pretty well. But you need to mount it on a tall stand orby klcjr89 - CoreXY Machines
QuoteHoly1 This looks like a nice system but unfortunately I am in Canada. With taxes and import duties it would be over $110. What is the % tax rate on importation into Canada? That's crazy!by klcjr89 - General
Here are two new images I took today. One shows the beautiful, uniform texture of the coating, and the other is a MK52 sheet I also made today.by klcjr89 - General
Nylon and PEI usually don't play nice together, and that is why Garolite or Kapton is recommended (which is where the single sided option comes into play).by klcjr89 - General
Update: we are now offering sizes up to 350mm and have lowered the costs of rewards! We have streamlined the reward tiers to make it less cluttered. You can also buy just a flex-plate now, whereas before we required the purchase of two at a time.by klcjr89 - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Update: we are now offering sizes up to 350mm and have lowered the costs of rewards! We have streamlined the reward tiers to make it less cluttered. You can also buy just a flex-plate now, whereas before we required the purchase of two at a time.by klcjr89 - General
QuoteFA-MAS I don't know of anyone that's offering powder coated spring steel sheets like this in custom sizes. I backed it. You have no idea how much I appreciate that! Thank you!by klcjr89 - General