Fan on extruder? I was there -- it was hot in packed tent, direct drive cold end (hobbed gear on stepper motor shaft) long bowden tube the fan in back cooled the extruder motor Some tweeks to driver, hobbed gear and printing INSIDE -- no problem If it is there is a geared drive --- or even a non-bowden set upby cozmicray - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
From Maker Faire NYC 2013 GIGABOT Even Bigger 4x4x4 feetby cozmicray - General
Wally, Simpson, Morgan and Nick do NYC (really queens) Maker Faire NYC 2013 Wally was working on print number three!!!by cozmicray - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Isn't this a bit absurd for a once a week adjustment? Done in software? Have software compensate for an 2 or more angles at a time driving the Z axis up and down constantly? In open source firmware? How about compensating for the flow out of the extruder, if a layer is uneven or polymer not flowing, or leaving nerdels. Buy a $250000 straysys or 3D system printer with $25000 software package?by cozmicray - General
IMHO The big spring clamps (Acco paper clips) for holding dow the glass are a real pain. The clips get in way of extruder or hit frame Taking clips off helps but clamping and unclamping without clips a pain I have found glass doesn't have to be held down, just constrained in X-Y The springs you see are for leveling the bed -- it is very important. I adjust the wingnuts to raise and lower bed oby cozmicray - Mechanics
What specific area of Physics? Build an Ordbot Hadron Get mechanical Kit Add 30A power supply E3D extruder Hotend and SeeMeCNC extruder Heated bed (hard PC heater) RAMPS1.4 electronics (Marlin firmware) Repetier-Host running under Win on PC 200x200x200mm print volume Have Phunby cozmicray - General
There is exhaust goop and there is exhaust paste? What is it made of? Lots of differences? Probably propriatary compound of manure and unobtainium? Maybe I should try to see whats in cartridge heater? Nichrome wire, ceramic, aluminum shell What is the ceramic stuff --- thats what you'd want to use with your resistors or Find out what resistor is coated with?by cozmicray - General
Here are my bed hold down / leveler Piece of aluminum threaded to accept bolt (or washer and nut) Washers Wingnut Bolt Du-Bro hardware at hobby shop should have all these except the aluminum L (saw, file, tap for that) Glass comes up easy to remove part or slip in another glassby cozmicray - Mechanics
Where is the information on the exhaust cement and its heat transmissivity? Is there a URL that shows its transmission of heat? Tnxby cozmicray - General
Does anyone know if these "furnace / Exhaust pastes" are insulators or heat transmissive? I would think a compound with some metal in it would have good heat transmission but also may short out resistor. The stuff with copper in it should be real good but you must insulate the bare leads with good high temp wire insulation. Use a heater cartridge -- and no worries.by cozmicray - General
I have a Ordbot Hadron I have a heated glass bed. Made up this way: Aluminum plate on maker slide Silicone thermal insulation (a silicone hot pad) Bed Heater (hard PC board type) Aluminum heat spreader Glass plate Corners have bolts with springs and wing nuts for leveling holding aluminum heat spreader to maker slide plate. Glass sits on top and is consby cozmicray - Mechanics
Look at the printer circuit board -- the layout shows it goes to D10 a 12V source. My point -- solder in pins/wires to D2 holes or BETTER just tie wires into 12v supply screw terminals.by cozmicray - General
I would NOT use the resistor but replace it with a cartridge heater. Resistors NOT really designed as heaters. Notice wires on cartridge heater! High temperature wire braid, If you insist on using resistor --- Crimp and solder wire to resistor --connection will be very near HOT. If they are driving only 5 watts thru the resistor it wouldn't get hot enough to heat the hotend to melt PLAby cozmicray - General
Looks like the D2 holes we are talking about are fed by D10 source. So soldering in pins to D2 holes is better than putting the wires for the fan in the power supply screw terminals.? FWIW --- I made up a set of 12V pins on a small perf board spaced as standard molex 4 sets of +/- pins all wired directly up to 12v I can plug fans, LED lights, etc to this bus. I hope we all agree there is NOTby cozmicray - General
27 deg C is room temperature --- no heating at all Heater bed wired correctly. Min/Max bed temp set? What electronics in use? (RAMPS, Rumba, RAMBO, Arduino based) What firmware? ( sprinter, Marlin, other) What software? ( repetier-host pronterface)by cozmicray - General
I would NOT wire to D2. Wire to 12V supply right at 12V PS terminals, when you switch ON the power supply the fan will start spinning always cooling extruder. I don't like using plug as a switch. Your arduino will power up when you plug in USB. You can also wire up a RAMPS cooling fan to 12V to keep mosFETs and drivers cool place fan above or on the side of the RAMPS board to blow over the boaby cozmicray - General
I would wire up the fan up to 12v that is always ON when printer is ON. Use the D9 pin to drive a cooler fan to squirt air for cooling of all ready laid down PLA, and it is software controlable. I would keep any power around D2 clean --- inducing any ripple (back emf from fan) may mess with CPU power supply. D2 pin 2 is gnd pin 1 +by cozmicray - General
I have a SeeMeCNC EZstruder extruder and a E3D hotend on my Ordbot Hadron. It is NOT a bowden set up. I see no problem with heat creep up to extruder and the hotend cooling fan may not be necessary. I am running PLA for the moment but will run ABS, Nylon, poly soonby cozmicray - General
Perhaps after building your printer and diddling with it for a year then realizing the build area is too small then realizing if you printer is crapped out you really need more than one printer, after spending $10000 then you can think about a business. What are you going to sell, with printer, filament, design cost --- can you sell it for what the public is willing to pay. Perhaps just prinby cozmicray - General
Hot end temps are usually measured by a thermistor on or in the block of aluminum / copper being heated by a resistor or cartridge heater. The thermistor feeds data to firmware / software to control the hot end heater temperature. A cartridge heater is nichrome wire in a thermal conductive matrix which is transferred to hot end heated block. Hot ends usually have a steel insert with a precisionby cozmicray - Mechanics
Where is WALLY? Kits CAD drawings, STL files, build files Let him out Eddie Haskel!by cozmicray - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
1. Can I print directly onto the heat bed or do I need glass? What is your print surface now? Very flat level surface required for quality prints. Glass is replaceable and you can level it to extruder, is your printing surface easily replaceable and able to be leveled? 2. I've got a Budaschnozzle but my Extruder is made for the j-head, can I still use it? Can't help here I use QU-BD extruderby cozmicray - General
"I cant have a heated bed." Not allowed because of the rules or laws where you live? SevenSwitch and a 12V heater pad 12V SILICONE RUBBER HEATER BED 200MM X 200MM (8"X8") I run a arduino Mega with a RAMPS 1.4 which will give you heater control and control for 2nd extruder.by cozmicray - General
Firmware running on Arduino, open source Marlin firmware, ingests G-Code and makes motors and heaters do what is necessary to print. A set of software programs running on desktop computer generates G-Code and controls printer Slicer software, Skeinforge, Kissslicer, Slic3r, takes model and produces layers then G-code to be feed to firmware to print item. From the printer control software, Rby cozmicray - General
So you believe that the filament diameter, above the hotend meltzone, increases with pressure? I guess I'll have to press real hard axially on some filament and see it change diameter? Perhaps that why extruders jam a lot, they don't account for ballooning of filament. Your sensor perhaps will have to run with change in diameter in angstroms?by cozmicray - General
Why is filament diameter needed in the sensing of extrusion pressure? My 1.75mm filaments vary from 1.70 to 1.87mm. and I place the average diameter into my Slic3r program. Would filament diameter be used for volumetric control of extruded plastic? ?????by cozmicray - General
ShadowRam How do you know a sensor will not work in molten plastic? What kind of sensor? If you don't know how the sensor works how can you say it will get plugged up. I don't think this sensor will be a pitot tube. "Dynisco's wide variety of robust 0-10 and 0-5 volt melt pressure transmitters; have been designed specifically for harsh and rugged environments of the extrusion and polymer prby cozmicray - General
The Temperature range 170 C PLA to 200 C ABS to 250 C Nylon and polycabonate. The pressure sensor has to be in the hot end melt zone. Pressure of solid filament probably not measurable. But the push force of the solid filament may be of use. 1.74mm or 3mm filament to a 0.2 to 0.5 mm nozzle. Enough pressure to force the viscoelastic molten plastic through the small nozzle at a high speedby cozmicray - General
It could be real important to determine if plastic is being pushed out and pushed out correctly. Many times I have had air prints -- head moving around with NO plastic coming out. Would be good to know filament is not exiting, stop print and recover. Also to be able to determine if the flow is correct. The sensor has to withstand the pressure and temperature found in extrusion printing Lookingby cozmicray - General
How with only TWO motors? Don't you need an extruder feed motor for each filament handled? Are you just showing hotends and this is a Bowden 5 shooter? How are you switching from extruder to extruder --- hotend power --- extruder power? Hot end heat up? If you keep all HOT how do you prevent drooling? Old style pen plotter used 6 pens in rotating mount I think it used a solenoid to clicby cozmicray - Mechanics