Well, I was wrong. The boards are fine. I found that the problem was in the power supply connector. I tested the voltage early on and it was ok and a visual inspection seemed to support that assessment. But yesterday I noticed a slight discolorization on one of the pins and looked again at the female p/s connector on the bed heater channel with strong magnification and found it was heat damagby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
The good folks at ultimachine are helping me with diagnostics. They are a great company for supporting there products. I think we have proven that both controllers now have bad heat bed mosfets. Just trying to pin down how they got that way. It very well could be poor connections. I did find discoloration on the output pins. I cleaned that off and replaced the female end on the bead leads.by charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust Does the controller read room temperature on the bed when its not heating? if so its not thermistor related If the thermistor is reading room temperature correctly Yes, it shows 26c which is ~ room temperature QuoteDust Dead io pin (replaced controller board should have fixed that) Well now that's become complicated. I took the controller out to the other machine that was workingby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust most thermistors reprap uses are normally 100k at 25c and decrease resistance with temperature increasing (ntc negative temperature coefficient) I checked again and I guess I was moving the decimal in my head, because this time it reads ~99k. So I am back at squire one. I am using a 24v power supply and I checked all three output channels and they are right on. I also did a cby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
I have a printer of my own design that uses a Rambo controller. It has worked flawlessly for well over a year...until this morning. I tried to do a print and discovered that the bed was not heating. The red light associated with the bed was not lighting. The hot end and all the motors worked normally. I checked the power connections to the bed and found no issues. I went ahead and replacedby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
I built a printer of my own design a few years ago and love it...with one drawback. When I print something with relatively thin walls (couple mm)', I get y axis slippage when printing fill. Seems that the frequency of the back and forth is just too fast for the enertia of the y axis trolley. I replaced the y motor with a better one but it made no difference. I use Marlin firmware and sli3erby charlieRC - Printing
I had a problem with a flaky sd card that would scroll error message after error message and never completely boot. Not sure if that is related to the problem your having but a new sd card resolved it for me. Fortunately, I had a good saved image to upload to the new sd so it was easy.by charlieRC - Printrun/Pronterface
I will try that. The PLA is due to be delivered tomorrow.by charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
I have been successfully printing ABS for some time with my RepRap. I use the Rambo board and at present the only fan that is on the printer is for cooling the extruder stepper motor. I have been dismissing PLA for a long time without ever trying it. I went ahead and ordered a kilo of PLA and now I need to figure out what changes I need to make to print with it. I know the temps have to chanby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
Hi, Sometime back, I started running my printers (2 of them) using pronterface on the raspberry pi. Everything was great guns and happy as clams until I got adventurous and decided to go into options and change the user interface setting from "tabs" to "tabs and platters". ( I am not sure I an remembering the option name accurately). I didn't understand what it was suppose to do for me, but Iby charlieRC - Printrun/Pronterface
Ahh... Ok let me try that.by charlieRC - Slic3r
that,s fine, but I need them on the 98 machine and I don't know where to put them so that slic3r can find them. I can't leave the thumb drive in the 98 machine because all the usb ports are being used for other purposes while printing. thanks for the response though.by charlieRC - Slic3r
I recently installed Slic3r 1.1.7 on a windows 98 machine (used for my printer). I want to copy my profiles from a win 7 machine to the 98 machine. I now where they are on win 7, but can't figure out where they are stored in 98. Can someone tell me. Searching the drive has yielded no insight. thank youby charlieRC - Slic3r
I have been playing with reinforcing layer bonds by incorporating vertical holes through the design and then using my 3mm abs, filling the holes with a length of 3mm material. The hole has to be a perfect fit (in my case 3.3 mm to allow for printing squeeze out). Still working on the best (and easiest method to bond the reinforcer to the part. Acetone is the most likely choice. Also, I am laby charlieRC - General
Hi Razor103, I have built two printers...the standard prusa with the regular 200 x 200 bed and my own design with has a 304 x 304 (12"x12") bed. The second is made from extruded aluminum 1010 series and uses a vslot x axis. motors on the bottom instead of the top. I tired to fix some of the issues with the prusa (reinventing the wheel, probably, but sometimes reinventing is much more fun thaby charlieRC - RepRap User Group - Florida, Tampabay
I know there are a lot of 3d printers in this area. I wonder why there is no further traffic on this forum. Has anybody thought about getting together with other reprappers and printer builders?by charlieRC - RepRap User Group - Florida, Tampabay
Sorry for all the issues you're finding. Actually, I am loving mine. It was difficult to get setup, but thanks to Johnny from Ultimachine, I got the files I needed and get things setup. There are things about it that I am not crazy about...not being able to use VNC to monitor progress from another location, the steps required to get through the screens, etc, but I really love not having to beby charlieRC - Controllers
Yes it is, but I may have discovered a solution. Apparently there is just enough difference in how the boards work that the extrusion factor had to be changed. I changed the extrusion factor in Slic3r from 0.95 to 0.85, took the extruder apart and made sure the hobs where clean and Printer 1 is now back to it's old self. I am making some alterations to printer 2 so I have not been able to trby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
I have two printers. One, an older reprap prusa, has just gotten better and better over the last year or so. It had a Rambo 1.1 board. I built the second machine and used Rambo again, this time 1.2. I was getting terrible prints on printer #2 so I have been blaming the design (my own) and tweaking everthing I could. While printing parts for printer #2 on printer #1, I had a problem with theby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the reply, but I am not sure how the Rumba would relate to the Rambo board. There does not seem to be any silk screening involved and the vendor (Ultimachine) added a photo to the product description to clerifiy some ambiguity in the cabling. I am convince that the problem is in the firmware changes. I have attached the three files I changed per the docs at . My changes can be founby charlieRC - Controllers
I am trying to use the smart LCD controller. My printer uses marlin firmware and a Rambo board. I modified the fastio.h, configuration.h and the pins.h as per the instructions I found on line (http://reprap.org/wiki/RamboLCD) and uploaded using the arduino 1.0.5 IDE.. All I am getting in the LCD screen is two horizontal lines made up of blocks. Contrast does not help. Anybody Sucessfully uby charlieRC - Controllers
nophead: I could not find a setting for BANG_MAX, but set the PID_MAX to 128 and it reduced the overshoot by a good 20 - 30 degrees. Being a kind of "if 1 works 10 is 10 times as good" kind of guy, I changed it to 64 and it overshot by only 3 degrees. Wondering if the head was going to able to keep up with a steady flow, I extrueded 300mm at 300mm/min and watch to see if it seemed to strain kby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
I looked at the PID settings in the configuration.h file and decided I needed to learn a lot more about that before I start messing with it. So, instead, I started playing with the temp setting in pronterface. I set it to 50 and it went up to 76 and then came back to 50 and stayed there. I set it to 75 and it went up to 108 and then came back to 75 and stayed there. I set it to 100 and itby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
Since I don't know if PID is enabled (or what it is, for that matter), I'm sure it's in its default state.. I had tried setting the temp to 100C and finally shut it off at 160C. I will go back to the source code and find out more about PID. Thank you for the suggestion. Charlieby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
Yes, that much I know. But sense I didn't write the firmware, and have been through the source, a few times, I was hoping that someone more knowledgable might offer some guidance.by charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
I built a new printer that is a cross between a prusa i2 and i3. Everything is working perfectly except the extruder heater won't shut off. Using a Rambo board, marlin firmware, and pronterface, it seems to show the correct temperature, but when the temp setting is reached, it just keeps going. The bed heater behaves as it should. I can turn the extruded heater on and off from pronterface witby charlieRC - RAMPS Electronics
jamesdanielv : Here are the configuration.h and pins.h files. I may not know enough to spot something I should. Charlieby charlieRC - General
Quotejamesdanielv is the bed wired up correctly?, have you inspected the ramps board for solder pieces and conductive particulate that should not be there? is the motherboard selection in configuration.h set for rambo? problem is likely something simple is overlooked. once that is done upload your firmware at least the configuration.h, and pins.h and some one will take a look at that. any iby charlieRC - General
I am building a new printer of my own design. Mechanically, it seems to be working perfectly. I am using the Rambo board and Marlin firmware. I have tested the motors and seems to work find, but I noticed that the bed heater was on and using pronterface, I tried to turn the heater off to no success. I am using exactly the same copy of Marlin that I used on my regular reprap and it seems to wby charlieRC - General
You were right on!!!! Thank you very much. As soon as I plugged the thermisters in, the motors started working. Now, a second problem: The heat bed power light comes on as soon as I plug in the power supply. Turning off the heat bed in Pronterface has no effect. I plugged in the bed heater and it is infact heating up. I didn't test the thermistor setting to see if it will turn off at temp, but aby charlieRC - Controllers