QuoteTTN The function for the inverse kinematics that I have been using has come from here, as mentioned on the hackaday project log, but I forgot to mention the source in the code: My apologies. On page 3 there, someone claims there are errors in the inverse kinematics function: Alas, the link you have provided is not working.by manton - Delta Machines
There are a number of very bright people working on solving the calibration problems of the FirePick Delta. The best place to find out about these is in the forum on Google groups: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/firepickby manton - Delta Machines
Quoteekaggrat somebody built a similar machine but said he had a lot of calibration issues. Yes, calibration has been problematic, and that is where a major part of the development effort is currently being focused. Many of us are patiently waiting for a proper method to calibrate the machine, myself included. There are even more geometry issues with this type of printer, compared to a lineaby manton - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe The frame's stiffness is very important for this setup. Four vertical/ parallel extrusions are not the stiffest platform. If these guys had guts, they´d build the frame like a pyramid... -Olaf Don't knock it until you try it. There is little to no load on the actual frame, compared to a linear delta, and this frame is actually very stiff. Those aluminum brackets work really well.by manton - Delta Machines
Quoterealthor Hi, I am a fan since the begining of the firepick-delta for it's way to avoid linear rods. Now after a few years I've checked back if anyone has built one and can't find anything. I am posting this in delta forum so you,the delta gurus, can tell me your opinion. Is, as of now, the firepick delta a good option for a delta printer? On their webpage it mentions Marlin for compatible sby manton - Delta Machines
I think that you might find that some of the high frequency noise in Y is your bulldog clips vibrating. Specifically the handles vibrating against the metal clip part. I have the same problem on my printer. If you take the handles off, it will probably be much quieter.by manton - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Yeah, I was thinking two granite surface plates in an oven would work nicely, but I only have one of them...by manton - Reprappers
You could put some sort of insulation under the heated bed. I use a couple of layers of cork for this purpose, but many other materials will work as well.by manton - Reprappers
It's interesting to note that only the peak temperature rating is higher. The continuous rating of 468MP is the same as the tape you specified. I was confused initially, as you mentioned using VHB tape, which is an acrylic foam core, which you probably wouldn't want to use for this application. One thing to note, is in my case, I still use bulldog clips to hold the glass/Ultem onto the heater,by manton - Reprappers
My Ultem came from Amazon, with one side shiny, and the other side matte. How thick is the VHB tape? AFAIK VHB tapes are usually foam core, whereas the 468MP is a transfer tape, with only a glue layer. It looks like the max rated temperature for any of the VHB tapes I could find is 120C, and that is dependant on the tape used, and the substrates it is bonding. The 468MP tape is rated for upby manton - Reprappers
Did you clean the Ultem, and mating surface with alcohol before applying the tape? Also clean the surface with alcohol before printing. It must be clean. I've never had the 468 adhesive give any signs of letting go, even at 100C. I do print on the matte side of the Ultem, so maybe that makes a difference. Your Ultem picture doesn't look like mine. Mine looks like an opaque amber color.by manton - Reprappers
PLA onto PVA glue on glass would be a close second to Ultem. ABS on Ultem is actually difficult to get off at times, as it really sticks well. You will want to wait until the bed is cool before removing it, and often you will need to use a knife edge to get under it. Alas, the Ultem does not help with the stress fractures in ABS while printing... I glued my Ultem on with the shiny side down,by manton - Reprappers
QuoteGarry Bartsch I have ordered the Ultem and am going to try it adhered with high temp silicone. I'm wondering if it would be best to use a laminate roller to press the Ultem to the glass to make it as flat as possible and eliminate bulges of silicone? Would such a method leave enough silicone between the two materials for good bonding? It might not be good to starve the joint. If I was tryinby manton - Reprappers
I think you will want as thin a layer as you can get. Someday I will glue mine down, as I have a fair number of air bubbles in the transfer tape layer, and I think that is causing some vertical changes with temperature. But, the transfer tape has done well as far as keeping the Ultem adhered to the bed.by manton - Reprappers
I had a similar problem on my MendelMax 1.5. I use trapezoidal lead screws and it was caused by Z screw wobble, and a loose nut. As the screw wobbles slightly, it engages the nut at different points, and since the screw thread is a ramp, this caused the nut to raise or lower slightly as the screw turned, creating a layer height change depending on the rotation of the screw. It looks exactly liby manton - Reprappers
You will find it in Configuration.h, under DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT.by manton - Printing
Slic3r needs to know the size of the bed, and where the center of it is. You can't just set the center to 0,0. Also, your steps/mm need to be set correctly in the firmware, or it won't move the correct distance for a commanded move.by manton - Printing
They are likely a 4 start 2mm pitch screw, as others in the series are specified as such. This gives you 8mm of travel per revolution. I doubt that they are acme, even though that is what they call them.by manton - Reprappers
Quoteroady001 I have the same problem and I also have a Huxley. My problem seems to happen because some parts seem to get much higher then they should; see attached picture to see what I mean. I have tried different temperatures but nothing helped. This is PLA b.t.w.. Might this be the same problem as OP? The lifting at the corners that you are seeing is due to too little cooling. Try a big faby manton - Printing
Judging by your pen plot, I'd say that the Y axis has quite a bit of backlash. This could be friction related, especially since you are using microstepping, so the available torque is not constant. Try lowering your acceleration values for Y to see if that makes any difference.by manton - Printing
Yes, in the case of those motors, the lead screw, and motor shaft are the same shaft. This should work well, as long as the screws are indeed straight. I've been meaning to try a couple of them myself. What layer heights do you think you would print at? At 400 steps/mm, this is a resolution of 0.0025mm, which is still much higher than you could ever use, considering a typical layer height isby manton - Reprappers
I'm not sure what you are seeing, but the first item in the list is a 12" x24" piece that is 0.030" thick for $40.68. Further down there is a 12"x12" size for $26.29. Also listed as customer also viewed items is the 468MP adhesive. I got the part number wrong earlier on that one. I haven't had anything pull it away from the glass. That transfer tape is really strong glue. I'm sure it wouldby manton - Reprappers
This is the stuff I used: Ultem 1000. I bought the 0.030" thick stuff, but it actually measured 0.040" thick. I used a sheet of 3M MP468 transfer tape to glue it down to a sheet of glass, but others have used high temperature silicone to glue it down, which may be a better way to go. I ended up with some visible small bubbles in the bond line, but it still seems very flat. It has a shiny sideby manton - Reprappers
Are you sure that what you linked to is what you require? These are studs, so they are not expected to be very long. Are you looking for threaded rods for the Z axis? The standard pitch for M5 screws is 0.8mm (coarse), which is likely what the plans call for, though fine pitch would work just as well (but it would be a bit slower when moving in Z). You should be able to get these from a hardwby manton - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I'm talking about the first layer height set in the slicer, which is what I understood we were discussing. You certainly wouldn't calibrate with 0.2mm, unless you were using a feeler gauge, as that would be too high for a piece of paper.by manton - Reprappers
I received a sample kit from Igus, and I have to admit that the friction is much higher than I thought it would be. This is with non-adjustable carriages as well, and there is quite a bit of play in them. I would never use these ones for a 3D printer, as there is just too much play.by manton - Extruded Aluminum Frames
If 0.2mm is too high, why does it work so well? I always print at 0.2mm, and it is very rare that I have adhesion issues. I've had far more problems printing at less than 0.2mm. That being said, I am not printing on glass directly. If printing with PLA, dilute white glue works well, ABS works well on kapton tape, both on a heated bed. Lately however, I've had good success with both materialby manton - Reprappers
I usually use 0.2mm for a first layer height with a 0.35mm nozzle. I would not print with a first layer height higher than this. Generally you want the first layer to be lower than normal, not higher, as you want the extrudate to squish into the bed. If you go to high, you won't extrude wide enough, and if too low, you will put too much plastic down. Somewhere between 0.1 and 0.2 should workby manton - Reprappers
You can't combine lasers like this, unless they are exactly the same wavelength, and in phase with each other, or completely different wavelengths. Otherwise, you get a bunch of destructive interference, and don't actually end up with more power. Actually, this is not quite true, as you can combine two of them at different polarizations with a polarizing beam splitter. Using multiple diodes ofby manton - MetalicaRap
Have you checked to see what your first layer height is? I usually do this by taking the skirt outline off of the bed, and measuring it with a caliper. To me it looks like the first layer is way too thick, which would explain why the extrusion width is too narrow.by manton - Reprappers