... update ... After nearly an hour curing with the 4W-tube the multi-layered Acrifix/MMA was elastic like a thermoplast. 8 Hours in my basement didn't chnange the behaviour, so the hardening didn't progress furter. The i deposited the chunk in my front-car-window in diffuse daylight for maybe 6 hours - it hardened completely to 'solid plexiglass' and is now strong but a liitle brittle, like sby VDX - Polymer Working Group
Hi Fernando, ... now, after nearly an hour of testing it seems to be clear - small blobs of Acrifix (maybe 1mm diameter, 0,4 high) are complete hardened after 20 minutes UV-radiating with the 4W-tube from 30mm distance. After short exposure, the resin is like gelatine, when covered with a new tray, it's shielded, so the reaction is slowed down - the multi-trays are like leather on the surface,by VDX - Polymer Working Group
... either it's not enough power, or the wrong wavelength ... It's the same when i cure 3minutes or more times the 3minutes - the Acrifix stays in the 'gelatine'-state and won't go into full hardening ... In the basement of my parents i have a doublesided multitube-UV-source from ISEL which i used for PCB-making - i think this bigger tubes should be stronger too. Earlier today i ordered a 100gby VDX - Polymer Working Group
Hi Fernando, ... i'm actually testing with my UV-tube (it's a Philips "TUV 4W, Ultraviolet"). I drop some bulbs and trays of Acrifix in maybe 0,5mm thick layers on a Plate and then on top of the old tray and cure for maybe 3 minutes. The resine isn't hard after 3 minutes, but more like soft gelatine - the older layers stay elastic too. I think the hardening is a passive process after the initby VDX - Polymer Working Group
Hi Fernando, ... i made a few quick tests with Acrifix and a normal Halogen-lightsource with glassfiber-lightfeeding (low UV, most visible light and IR). After some seconds lighting the fluid tray got a gelatine-like 'skin', after nearly two minutes a thin filament is hardened, thicker filaments and droplets have fluid cores. At home i'll test with my Eprom-erasing tube, so the curing will mayby VDX - Polymer Working Group
Hi Fernando, AFAIK the MMA-Polymerisation seems to be a very interesting way - high strength, translucent or coloured objects possible, extreme good surfaces, very good adhesion of the fluid to the underlaying layer, long storage-time and pot-life ... I'll make some tests with the Acrifix and hope you manage the sources for our own 1K-UV-resin. One backdraft is the toxicity and flammability ofby VDX - Polymer Working Group
Hi all, i found a promisimng material for UV-cured fabbing at room-temp, which reacts to PMMA or Plexiglass. It's called "Acrifix 192" and is a light-/UV-cured 1K-glue for plexiglass. Here are two sources with extremely different prices for the same size: 100g = 7,50 Euros: - 100g = 49,95 USD: - And here the multilingual product-description: - I'll try with some (manual) experiments inby VDX - Polymer Working Group
... you can have Polyimide (what Kapton is basically) as fluid too, which harden, when cured at >150by VDX - Mechanics
... it could be worth a test mixing talcum powder with water-glass ( ) - both are good heat-resistant (talkum until 1600by VDX - Mechanics
... yes, the first sequence. You can stack even more, but common elements will break down when overheated - i think 150by VDX - General
... you can reduce the lower (or higher too) temp of a Peltier-element, if you stack two or more in series. As the element creates a specific temperature-gradient between the 'hot' and the 'cold' side from typically 40 to 60 centigrades, you can drive this gradient down, when you set a second Peltier on the 'hot' side. We made until -60by VDX - General
... i think this is for 'sucking' new material in the gap and 'squeesing' it again down to 25 microns ... Viktorby VDX - General
... if you want to work with salvaged diodes, then the best way isn't laser-sintering but laser-cutting or engraving of thin sheets of black plastic or such. It's called LOM-fabbing (something as Laminated Object Manufacturing or Layered Object - ) and i already posted some ideas about in the forum ... Here you stack thin layer on layer of good laser-absorbing material (e.g. black paper or plasby VDX - Mechanics
Hi Ralith, ... i want to make a second try with BRL-Cad and Blender when i'll find some time ... In the meantime i use what's there, as most people around. I received most of my programms for free as outweared old software or i've found them for 4 to 7 Euros as atachment to PC-magacines and such ... Some of my friends work with professional CAD-programs, others didn't use any or didn't even kby VDX - RepRap Host
Hi Ralith, ... yes, most programs i work with, are mesh-oriented. They were designed with the main target of good looking screenwork and CG-animation. Here is a sample where i designed a short clip with an ant toying with assemblies - constructing parts and building the scene: Rendered scene: I made this in maybe half a day with a predefined 3DS-object of an ant i reassembled for convertiby VDX - RepRap Host
Hi jonored, ... read here side 19, point 6 - difference between replicating or referencing objects, maybe it's helpfull? Viktorby VDX - RepRap Host
... i have similar problems, discussions, thoughts and workarounds for making 3D-Objects on my CNC-mill, but milling is much more common, older and therefore mature then reprapping. I have a fully capable 3D-CAD/CAM-program with my CNC-mill, but dependant of the object (or the source i received predefined ones) i'll go different ways: - for simpler 2D- and 3D-parts i'll work in the proprietary mby VDX - RepRap Host
... maybe it's only some digits after the decimal-comma, when you displace the object in AoI. As you have the same counts of vertices and faces, it should be the numerical value of the coordinates, what's different ... Viktorby VDX - RepRap Host
... expensive and not really practicable ... With pumping you loose much initial power, so your pumping energy has to be much higher then the output - a typical green laserpointer uses 500mW IR-diodes for an output of 1 to 3mW. For Q-switching and resonance-improving you need an extrmely accurate optical setup with positioning accuracies in fractions of the wavelength! So this types of lasersby VDX - Laser Cutter Working Group
... here is a sketch of the laser-plotter with a 5-Watt-CO2-laser (4) in a fixed position: What's not drawn are three small mirrors (two fixed and one at the moving bridge), which feed the beam until the optical head - the small tube (45) atached to the tool-head (8) with a last mirror and a Germanium- or ZnSe-lens inside. It's not so complicated, as the common 4-joint-arms, which normally feby VDX - Laser Cutter Working Group
... here - - and here (esp. the images at bottom): - - we made some images with a single mouse-camera-sensor for measuring the exact position and movement of the bot over a marked surface. I have the complete ct-bot with the source-code, the especial 'mouse-camera'-program and a second mouse-sensor-PCB, but it would be some work to extract the part from the source. Maybe someone is interestedby VDX - Controllers
... you have to change the boot-order in your bios - CD/DVD prior to HD ...by VDX - RepRap Host
... with the NIR-output of diodelasers (~800 to 1000nm) in respect to CO2-lasers (10600nm) the cutting/drilling-speed is more dependant from the material - e.g. black ABS is much more absorbing than anything else ... In my development of a plastic-foil-cutting laserplotter with a 5-Watt RF-CO2-laser i experimented with some materials (wood, paper, leather, plastic, ...) and managed to cut untilby VDX - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi Andy, ... here my idea: Viktorby VDX - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
... here - - are some thoughts about fabbing a simple solar thermogenerator with many Seebeck-elements and a temperature-gradient of 500by VDX - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hi Andy, there are many 1K- and 2K-epoxies which are heat-cured. Most other reactions are heat-sensitive too, so you can speedup the hardening process of most mixtures or achieve fast air-hardening when heated aditionally. I salvaged an old toaster with two IR-glass-tubes instad of wire-heaters and want to try hardening paste, so i hope to dispend fluid pastes at room-temp and harden slice aftby VDX - Polymer Working Group
Hi Fernando, ... on Friday i finally managed to mix your 1st receipe - today is Sunday night, but the Benzil didn't solve, so i think it wouldn't mix properly with the silicone. Have you a hint what's best to make the mix solve completely? Viktorby VDX - Polymer Working Group
... replacements and toys for my children, some parts and 3D-objects/fittings for my electronics and experimenting with paste-dispensing for prototyping in microtech-sensors and housings ... Viktorby VDX - General
... main problem could be clogging of the valve with material in the feeding - you need much force to pierce a needle through a plastic-filled hole ... For a simple valve-mechanic you can use a heated nitinol-wire as actuator against a strong spring. It's the simplest method for applying high forces when you can drive the current. Viktorby VDX - Mechanics
Forrest Higgs Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sounds interesting! Are you going to have a go at > it? yes, i want to make some experiments with layered fabbing with lasercutted plastic- and paper-sheets in plane and on cylindrical surfaces and this kind of designing would help a lot. But actually i didn't have much time for this - today i finally manageby VDX - RepRap Host