Maybe it is the bearing. Remove the belt and move it over the rod some times to see if everything is okay. Once I had serious trouble with my OM2 because the motor bracket itself was not aligned/ angled. Did you use axes compensation during the print of the part? Had been the values correctly during the print?by Treito - Ormerod
If I increase the value to 290 the 3DTouch crashes into the bed instead of getting triggered.by Treito - Duet
I thought you were talking about the belt! My OM2 first used a printed (!) part and I switched to an aluminium part so I had no difficulties. However the trouble was with my OM1 with MXL belt.by Treito - Ormerod
You are talking from the y-axis. The x-axis has no acrylic parts with a hole where the belt is running through. The x-axis moves the head. However my OM2 uses a GT2 belt without any problems (16T pulley).by Treito - Ormerod
The G29 command is still failing. I used a "M557 R50 S15" before and the effector was moving to its physical limits. After the emergency stop the homing also failed as the Y-tower was way triggered before the other ones. After printing and homing all, sometimes the A, B and C axes are not homed anymore directly after the homing command? Really strange, but good looking prints.by Treito - Duet
I guess there was a fault during upgrade. Everything seems to be fine now. I will do test print to check this.by Treito - Duet
; homedelta.g ; called to home all towers on a delta printer ; ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sun Dec 25 2016 16:06:25 GMT+0100 (Mitteleuropäische Zeit) ; Use relative positioning G91 ; Move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass) G1 X285 Y285 Z285 F1800 S1 ; Go down a few mm G1 X-5 Y-5 Z-5 F1800 S2 ; Move all towers up once more (second pass) G1by Treito - Duet
Now downgrading by only "uploading" 1.16 FW-file and the printer works fine again.by Treito - Duet
Hello, I got strange issues with the new firmware. Homing the towers was extremely fast. After homing the z was lowered by about 120mm and even during the homing the z-height was extremly lowered before rehitting the end-stops. Autoleveling and the new G29 worked fine. Starting a print resulted in extremely retraction of the filament and the effector was way too close to the y-tower. Any ideas?by Treito - Duet
It seems that the angle between the sensor and the Z-tower is 30°, so in theory the offset of x and y should be the same? I will test this later, but nevertheless what about the sign? if I move to X/Y (10/20) for example, what I have to set in the config? plus or minus?by Treito - Duet
Strange thing that happens at me: Sometimes after a print the Delta is not homed anymore even though there is a G28 command at the end of the print. Skipped steps?by Treito - Duet
I have 3mm cork underneath the heated bed but no additional cooling. PLA is working well, but ABS? Should I try it? When do I know I should better stop?by Treito - Duet
That means the sensor is at the front while the y-tower is at the back, z left and x right.by Treito - Duet
Hello, I would like to replace the auto-level sensor which needs no offset with a 3DTouch, but what about the offset? It would be mounted in the opposite direction with the y-tower, but if I move the tower in y-direction the other both are also moving and the effektor is not moving straight. So how to define the offset? Best regards, Svenby Treito - Duet
Hello, I successfully replaced the old controller card of my Delta with the Duet board except for some blobs with S3D. What I am missing is a suitable holder. At the moment the Duet is mountet underneath the heated bed like mostly Delta configurations, but I am afraid that it could be getting too hot when printing ABS. On the other hand it seems to be well protected. I will definitely need a newby Treito - Duet
That sounds good especially as I do not know if the motors are okay or if some particles from the smoke may have damaged them, even though it was still printing normally until I removed the plug. Also I exchanged the heater cartridge, both fans and the heated bed. Later the day I will start (re-) commissioning and I hope I got the values right. Great firmware configurator.by Treito - Duet
I have 24 heater cartridges at home. The problem was that I did not want to dismount the effektor fully as it is made of cheap molded plastic. For example I cannot tighten the screws for the exchanged fans anymore. Luckily it was easier as I thought to remove the hotend. The effector could stay in place. Also there is not much place at the Delta for any additional devices, but this may be a goodby Treito - Duet
I would like to try it with my Delta, but unfortunately the main files are gzip-compressed. Do I have to install an older version and upgrade by copying the files into it or do I need a clean www-directory and the Duet can handle these files without restrictions?by Treito - Duet
Quoteo_lampe 24V / 15 Ohm = 1.6A It should work Thanks that was my result, too. But I wanted to be sure.by Treito - Duet
QuoteDavid J ...solder both to a thicker wire... You gave yourself the answer. I would like to avoid any unnecessary connection. Also the whole cable tree is in motion (Delta) and underneath the Duet will not be much space. The printer was already on fire and I don't want to repeat this.by Treito - Duet
Hello, as I got a 24V heated bed very cheap I decided to switch to 24V for the Delta (original controller (Repetier) was a little bit on fire). In this case if I use a 40W, 24 Volts heater cartridge (about 15 Ohms). Using only one pin should be okay, right? I would like to lead the wires directly to the controller card without any further connectors. Best regards, Svenby Treito - Duet
I have heater cartridges for 24 Volts here (40 Watts), no problem. It was simply a question. Last but not least my delta nearly got on fire, so I will replace it or the whole hot-end. Many thanks.by Treito - Duet
Hello, After my Delta burnt a little bit, I decided to repair it nearly from scratch. I will replace the damaged electronics with a Duet 0.6 and also upgrade the power supply to 24V. What about the heater cartridge? Do I have to replace it or can I simply run Auto-PID or should I replace it even if Auto-PID could work? Best regards, Svenby Treito - Duet
What kind of adjustment? I tried to adjust the motor currents without success. Surprisingly it seems to work at least, but I gave up for the moment, as both Ormerods are not working right now and I try a Delta printer until my CoreXY is ready to have time to fix the Ormerods (and the delta).by Treito - Ormerod
Quotedc42 The conventional approach is that looking at the front of the printer, the X tower is on the left, the Y tower is on the right and the Z tower is at the back. +X movement is to the right and +Y movement is towards the rear. Good to know. My vendor defines it in a different way (X at back, y at left and z at right) and I was also wondering if I would replace the z-endstop-switch with aby Treito - Duet
QuoteKurzaa I am confused, are you trying to convert your Micromake from the existing 8-bit controller to a Duet board or are you trying to configure your 8-bit board for z-probing and improve the connectors? O sorry I did not see your post. The power connectors from the original board are very bad. Many users complains about melted connectors. Also the controller is often stuttering during priby Treito - Duet
Many thanks, I was unsure because of the labelling of the parameters of the M665 command, especially about the horizontal radius. There was a link named "Replacing the controller with a Duet" where I only ended up at dc42's great blog, but not at the required values. Flow rate is very simple: These are the Extruder steps per mm. So when my Core is finished I can exchange the controller to my lovby Treito - Duet
Many thanks. These are the settings I can read so far. I think the first values are the important ones. But I have to finish my CoreXY first before I change the Delta. Somehow I should be able to print the new parts.by Treito - Duet
Many thanks. The problem is that the connectors are very bad. The power supply is no tight fit a simple airflow and it lost contact. Okay not that extremely but nearly. Also the Atmel 2560 is a little bit slowly. It's equipped with a simple Z probe: The nozzle gets pushed up and release the triggering of a switch.by Treito - Duet
Hello, I recently got a Micromake D1, but the controller is terrible. If I would change to a Duet controller, where can I get the values and what is meant? I don't see the connections between the configuration file and the schematics of the Dalta principle at the wiki. Can anybody please help me? Best regards, Svenby Treito - Duet