I will move the bed in Z direction only with my own design. The hotends will move in X/Y-direction only like the moste CoreXY designs. Back to The OM2: At the moment both of my printers needs a repair. The MK1 needs new bearings for the y-direction (at least one is broken and the axis tends to block). The MK2 has a melted bed support (the screws transferred heat so even BS melted). This will beby Treito - Ormerod
@Richard Do you have any improvements with your solution?by Treito - Ormerod
Dave, I have no issues with the spring-loaded Extruder. It is not skipping, but I get symptoms of an unstable frame like the ghost shadows at old analogue antenna tv. I am also designing a new CoreXY-Printer. Due to a construction issue I had to redesign the frame and therefore I will have to redesign some parts. The main difference between us is that I want to keep the moved mass as low as possby Treito - Ormerod
I have read several reports of improved I3 like the bq Hephestos, Wanhao Duplicator or even good stabilized normal I3 (steel-frame). Nevertheless the twisted rod problem and the sagging of the x-arm is not fixed yet. Regarding the y-axis there are two solutions that looks interesting, but they still use the rods and I cannot imagine that this way could fix the problem. And if I change the y-axisby Treito - Ormerod
Hello, my (self-made) Ormerod 2 (and also the MK1) drives me crazy regarding the printing speed. I was able to get a more stable print with some changes, but the printer(s) especially suffers on the twisted rod problem. The maximum speed I can achieve with very less artefacts is about 70mm/s. To compare: A good Prusa I3 can achieve about 120-150mm/s. So I am really considering to stabilize my pby Treito - Ormerod
I got my test board today. It looks impressive, but unfortunately it may take 6 weeks until I am able to test it. I took a short look at the provided SD-card. There was a readme how to enable Wifi, but how I enter the SSID and WPA2-key? Sorry, if it was answered before,by Treito - Duet
Quotedc42 ...That would be 360W @ 24V. For comparison, my delta printer with a 330mm diameter bed uses a 350W heater. That would be awsome. Are the test board be able to handle the same current? In this case I would not have to use a SSR for the heated bed.by Treito - Duet
The most important thing is that it is hard to get a kit. So if you want to build an O2 on your own you may need this kit. Currently I am testing a printed design with my O2. The first attempt melted (full PLA). Now I am trying it with ABS, but I do not think that will be successful. You should consider using GT2-belts with 16 teeth pulleys. With these belts and the x-arm I was able to raise theby Treito - Ormerod
But if you have a situation like I have where the front is 1mm higher than the back the current ABL works but with your method it wouldn't. The most important thing is that the surface is even of course.by Treito - Ormerod
Quotexeb Another dumb question: are all the Reprap Ormerod parts printed in ABS? Originally all parts are printed in PLA that is why you have to replace some parts if you want to print much ABS.by Treito - Ormerod
Originally my Ormerod 1 had a height difference of more than 1mm which I wasn't able to remove. Why I am telling this? To make you one thing clear: If you put such a feature into your firmware the dimensions will not be accurate.by Treito - Ormerod
I only used 0.5 to see how this option works and what happens if the value is too high. As I used 0.15 I saw small gaps. Latest settings was 0.1 for the M572-value, a retraction of 7mm with a speed of 80mm/s and "coast at end" with 1.3mm. Using these settings I got really nice looking corners without a noticeable sawtooth profile. But it seems that pressure advance could have some issues with theby Treito - Ormerod
The original sensor has big problems if the height difference and therefore the deviation of the angle is too big. The sensor failed for me if two extreme points differed more than 0.6. If I reduced the difference it worked good regarding ABL.by Treito - Ormerod
I used a setting of 0.5 and ruined the print afterwards. The gear is stuttering depending on the setting. 0.5 really sounds dangerous. Reducing the amount of retraction as suggested by S3D was a bad idea. A retraction on layer change is needed. If I enable coast at end at S3D I can see where I will have the blobs. They will be exactly at the gaps. Printing the 3Dbenchy (meanwhile I have 20 or 30)by Treito - Ormerod
Hello, if I print 3DBenchy (and other objects) I get blobs especially at sharp corners I get a saw-tooth edge. I enabled the M572 command with 0.1, 0.15 and 0.2 no luck. I increased retraction up to 8mm with 80mm/s with no luck. As the Extruder pressure advance does not need "Coast at end" I disabled it, but I before I used the M572 option with "Coast at end" enabled (1.7mm) I got the best resulby Treito - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Blobs are normally caused by insufficient retraction. Coast to end is a poor substitute for extruder pressure advance, which is supported in RRF. I read about it, but how to setup? I tried retraction up to 6mm with 40mm/s and 50mm/s. However I am using Chinese E3D-V6 clones. Edit: For those who are interested it's the M572 command.by Treito - Ormerod
Maybe you should install a recent firmware version of dc42 or chrishamm. I recently added a second fan to my Ormerod 1 and it works.by Treito - Ormerod
Quotedc42 QuoteTreito However unfortunately Cura 2.1.2 does not support custom-g-codes yet so I have to give MatterControl a shot. It looks to me that Cura 2.1.2 is very new and is only really designed to support Ultimaker machines. I suggest you try the previous version, 15.04.6. Cura 2.1.2 supports also Reprap-machines but it is a little bit tricky. However I can choose an I3 as a replacementby Treito - Ormerod
Simplify3D confirmed the bug. I got the following tip to get rid of the M103 command until the bug is fixed: QuoteSimplify3D support In the meantime, you can also use the postprocessing commands to remove these extra M103 values from your gcode. If you got to Edit Process Settings > Scripts and put the following in the “Additional terminal commands for post processing” box, it will remove allby Treito - Duet
Hmm, resetting the Extruder sounds good as I tried the relative mode without success. The unloading even happens at the end with the plugin using Cura as there is a command to retract 5mm which does not work. However unfortunately Cura 2.1.2 does not support custom-g-codes yet so I have to give MatterControl a shot.by Treito - Ormerod
QuoteRoboPicker Hey Guys, Exactly the same issue here. I've leveled the bed and can print well without auto bed leveling. However once I turn on the 5 point leveling things get pretty bad, can see the Z axis winding up and down even though I know the bed is flat. Is anyone else here using this function with success? Using the upgraded differential IR sensor and version 1.13b btw. How you wantby Treito - Ormerod
Quotedc42 The usual commands for firmware retraction are G91 and G92, and those are what RRF supports. AFAIK, Simplify3D doesn't have an option to use firmware retraction, unless they added it to the version that they just released. Unfortunately M101-M103 is not supported by my firmware.by Treito - Duet
The plugin is not working with Cura 2.1.2 as you cannot choose any plugins. I would also like to test MatterControl where the plugin doesn't work. Even using the plugin with Cura 15.04.6 gives me trouble at the end or at cancelling so I would prefer a direct method for the Extruder settings.by Treito - Ormerod
Do you use the stock probe sensor? Does it have four connectors? Please move the table to 100/100. Make sure the heaters are off. Lower the z-axis until the sensor touches the surface. Watch the sensor value (z-probe). Does it raise? Which is the highest value you get? This procedure is to check if the sensor is working properly. I changed the coordinates in the files homeall.g and homez.g as weby Treito - Ormerod
Hello, how can I use MatterControl or Cura (2.1.2) with my printers? These slicers use absolute Extruder values instead of relative. If i cancel a print or the print is finished The Extruder unloads the filament (more or less) or to be exactly it retracts the filament for the length of the extruded filament before +5. So how can I change this behaviour? It should stay compatible with relative Exby Treito - Ormerod
You should install Firmware version 1.12a-dc42 or later. If the message still persists please post your config.g and your bed.g here.by Treito - Ormerod
Earlier Firmware-versions suffered indeed from the problem Darathy described. A bed compensation also rehomes the z-axis. This is still so, but if you look at the bed compensation points - the first point is negative (should be nearby zero). If you redo the bed compensation the first value get even more negative. For example -0.142; -0.163; -0.181 and so on. This behaviour was fixed in FW-versionby Treito - Ormerod
My Ormerod 1 was originally green, now it is read except for the Extruder. I may remember nearly at the beginning (I bought mine about May 2014) I had such trouble. In that case the clamps were broken, but it was hard to see at first. After disassembling it was clear. My x-carriage also failed, but that was caused by printing ABS.by Treito - Ormerod
I never heard of this problem. What Ormerod do you own? I have both versions, but my second one is not original. Therefore my bed carriage is printed, but in accordance to the original design. The clamps seems to be a little bit too small so I had trouble fixing it. Regarding my one I don't have any issues or to be honest sometimes the clamps themselves break.by Treito - Ormerod