Next step is to get some car air purifier to filter out all the fumes and smell as well as getting PLA and PETG settings dialed in. You can really smell the PLA once the enclosure is opened after a long print. I'm not going to take any chances with ABS.by Vigilant - Delta Machines
With my prior experience in coreXY I wanted a printer that is enclosed to be able to print ABS and reduce the amount of dust accumulated after a while. With that, I started to think of what is the simplest method to enclose the delta without the need to do a lot of "custom" work. As you all know, once you start doing custom stuff, prices goes up, as you don't have the mass volume to bring theby Vigilant - Delta Machines
Filament has to be fully "guided" which means a ptfe tube near the hobb. in Titan they have a plastic guided part that guides the filament to prevent bucklingby Vigilant - Delta Machines
Wouldn't it be easier if you were to use ikea enclosure?by Vigilant - Delta Machines
QuoteThenewguy I had the endstop brackets and 4 of these 2020 rail alignment peices sls printed. This is the best way to mount 9mm that I could come up with. I tried a few methods and even had toothed. This way had less belt wobble for me. Better to support the screws at both sidesby Vigilant - Delta Machines
QuoteDjDemonD I was never unhappy with a flying extruder which only ever had a 20cm bowden tube, but the mass could be seen as ringing or corner defects at high speed. Switched to flex3drive probably about the same, then nimble again about the same. These remote direct drives definitely beat a long bowden (70cm) even with pressure advance and cyberdine systens ultra ptfe or whatever it is calledby Vigilant - Delta Machines
Hi do you have pictures showing bowden print quality vs the nimble? Using the nimble no longer allows you to use the Y adapter for dual filament, so I 'm just wondering how good or bad the print quality is with the bowden.by Vigilant - Delta Machines
Quotenumber40fan I think right now is the best time to be building a Delta. So many wonderful parts that make it so easy to assemble and calibrate. Yup, can get away with only printing minimal parts.by Vigilant - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I built a large Kossel two years ago, upgraded it several times, and finally rebuilt it earlier this year. It worked well from the start and got better with each upgrade. I described the journey at and subsequent blog upgrades, and the rebuilt version at . Some people prefer to put the electronics and motors at the top, and just the PSU and bed heater SSR under the bed. Wouldn't stepby Vigilant - Delta Machines
QuoteDjDemonD I like the Tevo LM approach its a very simple frame and should be very sturdy. Get precision cut end plates made by laser cutting/waterjet which are thick enough and flat enough. Then use linear rails, 0.9 degree steppers, Duet controller, Piezo probe/smart effector, magnetic rods, remote direct extruder. Should be a pretty awesome delta. I've got one - and I love it. Mine is a Kby Vigilant - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe I've built my Kossel XL upside-down with the small Robotdigg corners screwed to a solid MDF plate. That made a huge difference, but I'd chosen the wrong carbon rods. 6mm rods x 330mm long are not sufficient for fast prints with a heavy Diamond hotend. So it only collected dust until I decided to give the smart effector with Haydn Huntleys magball rods a chance. To my surprise the rodby Vigilant - Delta Machines
A little bit of background. I've started with a Prusa I3, went to do my own Core XY and now planning to change it to a Delta, specifically a kossel xl. For those who have build one , what would you have done better in hindsight after building it? Would you have change the way you build it given the chance? For eg:-, For my core xy the number 1 on hindsight I realised is that corexy isn't realby Vigilant - Delta Machines
cool, I'm surprise nobody has ever tried all linear rail ultimaker before. Makes me want to try.by Vigilant - CoreXY Machines
This has got me curious. Lets assume an ultimaker like gantry movement (quadrap) is replaced with linear rail and powered by single motor with each axis driven by an 5 or 8mm rod connected with a belt. What would be the pros and cons of this setup compared to the traditional corexy? other than the fact that I need 6 linear rails to replicate ultimaker's setup? I'm thinking it will be a lot moby Vigilant - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor Hello, I planned 10mm rods for SCOUTcorexy's dual-supported Z platform but am wondering, as long as the bed is not cantilevered it might be sufficient to have 8mm rods (also considering that I use 3 rods). Here's a sketch: Thanks. The rods are there to prevent XY, rotational(pitch and yaw) movements to the bed. The thicker it is the better it will resist any force from the Z leby Vigilant - CoreXY Machines
Quotehobbymods I can still see banding in the 0.1mm print, just much less defined. Little bit of "shadowing" around the porthole in the bow as well. From the sideline they still look like some good prints for starters! Certainly up there with what you'd get off any of the commercially available machines. The banding seems "cyclic", suggesting either something happening per turn of the z screw oby Vigilant - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 One possibility is that the heated bed temperature is fluctuating too much. Is it stable to within +/- 0.2C of the target? Yup it is very stable.by Vigilant - CoreXY Machines
Quotehobbymods QuoteVigilant From my experience in my recently build printer, if you're going linear rails you'll probably do fine. I got the CoreXY up and running at first try without any hitch. The hardest in my opinion is the Z axis. Took me quite some time to get this up to where I want it to. Cantilevered bed will work but you have to move extra slow so that the bed end doesn't oscillateby Vigilant - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl hiya hobbymods, welcome to the forum. some links to analysis that may help, look at what the_digital_dentist did, with son-of-megamax, his printer design is extremely comprehensive and accuracy is extremely good. for an analysis as to why you should use dual rails/rods and triple lead screws. dual screws is not enough. multiplying up the number of rails does not "fix" the problem ofby Vigilant - CoreXY Machines
From my experience in my recently build printer, if you're going linear rails you'll probably do fine. I got the CoreXY up and running at first try without any hitch. The hardest in my opinion is the Z axis. Took me quite some time to get this up to where I want it to. Cantilevered bed will work but you have to move extra slow so that the bed end doesn't oscillate too much.That's not really aby Vigilant - CoreXY Machines
Hi All, I just completed a CoreXY build, and it is working perfectly fine except for one nagging issue. A quick summary of the printer, it is a self made CoreXY utilising clone Hiwin MGN9 linear rails with 400 steps 48mm stepper motor on X,Y and Extruder(MK8) bowden. The Z axis is using a typical cantilevered platform, also using Hiwin MGN9 linear rails. The lead screw is a M8,2mmlead integby Vigilant - CoreXY Machines