here's a good place to start: http://reprap.org/wiki/Materials There hasn't been a lot of work done recently on this page, so anything you want to add would be greatly appreciated.by Buback - Mechanics
Emmanuel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > if you delete any present stl, and then press > "convert to Gcode" it will clear the Gcode the thing is i'm not loading stls. i'm using skeinforge to make my gcode, and using the load gcode button.by Buback - RepSnapper
sketchup can't export .stl without a plugin. maybe sketchup pro can, but not the free versionby Buback - RepSnapper
Could you implement it in a more basic way, as in it would just clear all the gcode out of repsnapper? i understand what you mean about the buffer. does the pause button send a 'pause' gcode command, or just stop sending gcode to the printer? lets say i loaded the wrong gcode file. currently, i have to close and restart repsnapper (or select all the gcode commands and delete but this doesn't reby Buback - RepSnapper
i've attached some pictures of my basic idea. you slide the part that looks like a gasket onto the crossmember, and then the 'forks' piece attaches to the belt. the two pieces are joined together with some m4 bolts. by loosening the m4 bolts, the y carriage can be popped right off, leaving the forks piece attached to the tensioned belt. This makes it easy to tension the belt from the top withouby Buback - General Mendel Topics
-perhaps i missed it, but if not, there needs to be a 'cancel print' button, and a way to clear gcode out with a single button press. -the 'run extruder' button should have an option to use volumetric firmware adjustments, i.e. fewer steps. just change the scale, so that i don't feed 100 mm into the extruder.by Buback - RepSnapper
yes i'll work on the belt harness some more. I know it's probably the worst designed part on the OpenY. I'm open for suggestions or drawings of how this could be done better. -I like the quickness of using zip ties to attach the belts, but worry that it might damage the belts or effect print quality because zip ties don't have the steel wires that the belt has. -the belt weaving technique worksby Buback - General Mendel Topics
The drive screw i removed from the printer is about 1 foot long, and only 5mm dia., so i don't think 2 feet would change the system much. you'd probably want a thicker drive screw.by Buback - Mechanics
in my model, i've assumed a 1.5 mm gap between the bearing and the plastic (for the arm bearings) in order to accommodate a washer. i was just guessing on the thickness, and assumed that it might vary wildly anyway. however, i just looked at m4 washer dimensions and the spec sheet says .8mm. I guess it should have 2 washers between the bearing and the plastic then, if the specs are right. I onlby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Wow, very cool! ok i'll play with the files some. I need to learn openSCAD so i can remake these carriages in a parametric way. keep me posted about any other issues you have.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The problem with this approach is that you have > two variables, steps/mm and filament packing > density ratio (FPDR), and you only have one > measurement, feed displacement per revolution. > Since you don't exactly know how much the filament > drive is digging into the feed, you might as well > just measby Buback - Skeinforge
instead of getting repsnapper to extrude 10, measure how much goes into the extruder for each revolution of the large gear. just put a mark or piece of tape on the large gear and move it from 12 o'clock around and back to 12 o'clock you'll also need a piece of tape on the feedstock. measure the distance at 12 before and after, and the difference is how much went in, which is also your filament gby Buback - Skeinforge
Yeah i think anything larger than the Mendel should probably go to 12mm round bars. it seems like it's pretty easy to get cheap linear bearings at 12mm ID. Forrest Higgs found some good examples. Richrap: For some reason, i prefer the belt drive of the sells mendel over the two motors of the prusa, so i'm designing it around belts. I'm also thinking about being able to use a worm gear/driveshaftby Buback - General Mendel Topics
the help is nice and useful, but out of date and incomplete. syncra: Have you changed your firmware settings? I'm assuming you did and that is what you meant by "I am nearly at 1to1 with Repsnapper," you haven't mentioned firmware yet, so i'm just making sure. brnrd: What are your other parameters, like microstepping rate and step angle?by Buback - Skeinforge
Is this design workable? I don't like the extension of the x axis outside of the triangle frame. there are many times when i would like to turn the frame on it's side to get to the underside or take pictures, instead of turning the machine on it's back. there various reasons, such as not having to mess with the filament, or electronics placement makes turning the machine on it's back dangerous.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
i received at least 3 bad bearings. Ebay :-( so don't rule it out so quickly I'm also wondering if the banding changes frequency if you change the print speed. perhaps it's resonance in the belt and stepper at certain speeds. Another thought; could it also be caused by the shape of the filament as it exits the nozzle? Nophead did a blog post a while back about how his filament was curling whenby Buback - General Mendel Topics
ok thanks. i don't have any yet, but didn't want to order anything to test with without some input. The channels are pretty narrow on 20x20 mm, and i am wondering if there will be enough plastic in a printed piece to keep the frame rigid. the trunk of the T is what i'm most concerned about.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
i think it will wear out quickly, especially with bushings. That said, i'm using carbon fiber tubing and it works great. i'm using bearings, though.by Buback - Reprappers
I've got a couple pieces of this at home which is what I'm planing on using: 80/20 30 SERIES 30-3030 30mm X 30mm T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x 610mm at 610mm per side it'll be bigger than the mendel. these are nice because they're accurately precut. I was thinking a 20 mm^2 extrusion would be better for a mendel-sized model. (I'm not very familiar with extrusions, so if anybody has suggestions for a pby Buback - General Mendel Topics
ah ok. just read up on .stls. It's the normal vector if each that's the issue. I don't think it's an issue with a mobius solid, since there will be an 'inside' and 'outside'by Buback - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
really? I thought an stl was just a bunch of layered images, in effect, like a cat scan. I guess a mobius strip is technically/mathematically a 2d structure, but in actuality a printed one would have height. NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Take a look at the scad file here for an idea of > where to start: > > You'll want to use a couplby Buback - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I made a wiki page to help people get started with the new settings : Volumetric_Dimension_settings. Please feel free to correct anything I got wrong. It might be a good idea to post links to this new page from the extruder wiki pages, as well.by Buback - Skeinforge
I'd like to be able to create mobius solids on my printer. Solids are just mobius strips that have some thickness. it'd be nice to have the option to tell it how many folds it has. probably a pretty tricky script. i don't even know where to begin :-(by Buback - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Thanks for double checking my math. it must be that i forgot to include the microstepping, and for some reason used full steps. my prints are much much better now; close to 039 already. I took most of the week off from printing because i knew i'd have to print lots of calibration pieces to figure out my problem, and it would be a night lost, but the skirt plugin is great and well worth it.by Buback - Skeinforge
my experiments with SF 040 thus far: with my e_steps_per_mm at ~70, i have to set my flow rate at (feedrate * 4) to get anything near usable. the fill is barely there. i'm going to try (feedrate * 5) next, but i think my e_steps_per_mm rate is way off if flowrate is now supposed to be (feedrate * 1). also, when you change the e_steps_per_mm, most softwares are still going by extruded length (noby Buback - Skeinforge
our wiki is chaotic; but we like it that way (kinda). bottom line is, if it's worthwhile, it'll eventually be made pretty by people who do that sort of stuff. you can read about how to make a page here: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Developmentby Buback - Reprappers
I think the triangle shape is easier to transport, and I've had to move my Mendel around quite a bit. the top bar is a natural handle. you are certainly right about the build height. On the other hand, i don't know if i really want to build any taller. tall builds take a long time, and if something goes wrong, it's all ruined. i'd rather print in stages. I'm more concerned with making the frby Buback - General Mendel Topics
it's something i want to work on. My plan is to design RP parts to connect the t slot, instead of buying connectors. the t slot itself it relatively cheap. slightly more than steel studding, maybe, but potentially more rigid. it might even be very easy to get it pre-cut to size. I'm basing the RP parts around the mendel style equilateral triangle, so that the axes remain relatively unchanged.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
I think PLA is the place to start. it requires less hardware, doesn't have as much of a warping problem, and since you'll be printing lots of calibration pieces at first, doesn't make you feel as bad about throwing so much plastic away. once you've got your settings dialed in, you can move to ABS, which is a better material for final prints of things you intend to use for a while. I've only eveby Buback - Reprappers
I think that was the driving design decision, but I'm pretty impressed with what i can do without support material. i imagine the hardware/software has improved a lot since the original design was released, which allow us to print more complex designs. These parts are yearning for an update. really, it's the whole x axis (i think of it as the z carriage) that needs a redesign. I know Prusa hasby Buback - General Mendel Topics