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Cartesian XYZ machines with frames made of extruded aluminum, T-Slot, Makerslide, and more. See http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Aluminum. Previously named "Extruded Aluminum"
integrate raft layer into model? - 14 years ago
here's a proposal: Have the first layer slice thicker, by some multiplier, so that it acts like a raft. Something like this would be a boon for those printing at very small layer heights, since you wouldn't have to have your bed so incredibly level and finely calibrated. So for example, Neil could do the first layer at .3mm, and the rest of the model at .01mm.by Buback - Skeinforge
Re: RepRap family tree - 14 years ago
I'd just like to remind anyone that might want to post a request in the future that the Family Tree page is on the wiki (i.e. it's editable), and there is a list of bots to be added to the next revision, so you can edit it yourself to add your project.by Buback - General
Re: Upscaling upper vertex blocks to improve clearance - 14 years ago
it's all a hodgepodge of parts. it's nice when everything is standard, but often it isn't, or is a standard that doesn't work with your particular parts. But, yeah, a vanilla wades will work with the OpenX. :-)by Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Upscaling upper vertex blocks to improve clearance - 14 years ago
mostly it's used as an adapter to make it compatible with your hot end/extruder combo. Some people use a metal plate as a heat sink, though.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Introducing the Prism Mendel - 14 years ago
Ok, I've got some preliminary visual instructions up on the wiki, and I've put all the files up on Github here. I'm still putting together a BOM. Is there anything else I'm missing?by Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Upscaling upper vertex blocks to improve clearance - 14 years ago
It's also posted up on the wiki, with pictures: I have only printed with PLA, without a heated bed, so i can't answer. But i'd assume that PLA might warp eventually if printing in ABS.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Upscaling upper vertex blocks to improve clearance - 14 years ago
I designed one a while ago, the OpenX. it's been updated and improved by others, though. but there are other carriages that might work better for you. I like GregFrost's carriage, if you have lm8uus and Prusa x ends. his actually puts it at an angle, which i think is a good compromise between maximum X travel and Z travel. You can also do a search on thingiverse for x carriage or x axis and seeby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Melted plastic bunching up on the print head? - 14 years ago
You can also try upping your hot end temp. I usually print at 200 C in PLA. you might even want it a bit higher for the first layer. Another thing that works to help the filament stick is wiping the tape down with some acetone (actually i'm using nail polish remover, so not very concentrated acetone) right before i print.by Buback - General
Re: Upscaling upper vertex blocks to improve clearance - 14 years ago
If i understand you correctly, making the gap at the top wider would also change the angle of the threaded rod at the bottom vertexes, so you'd need to print out new parts there, too. Also if i understand you right, the major axis of the extruder is perpendicular to the x axis, correct? Most of us that have a geared extruder eventually move to a x carriage that allows us to mount the extruderby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Introducing the Prism Mendel - 14 years ago
I'm using the same nuts recommended by the mendelmax guys, which are rectangular pieces of steel with an m4 threaded hole (though i think they're using m5). But i just chose them for simplicity and compatibility. You could even use a plain m4 nut and washer, if not for the fact that the nut will spin endlessly. I don't know the dimensions of an m4 square nut, but if it is similar to an m4 hex nutby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Introducing the Prism Mendel - 14 years ago
hmm i'll try with ascii until i can take pictures: /\ / \ / \ / / \ -------- The top "V" shape is the frame, and the bottom "V" in bold is the piece. the piece can only touch both sides of the frame at the very top, which is alligned right in the center of the bottom frame element. I think you understood that part, but i just wanted to clarify. Cross section of Extrusion, with a sby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Introducing the Prism Mendel - 14 years ago
Yep I wasn't sure how long the belt was going to be, but it turns out the standard mendel z belt is a bit too long, requiring the square path, so i just threw a bearing and some fender washers on a screw and put it wherever; one less part to print. I like tensioning the belt by sliding the z motor bracket, since i can do that without having the put the printer on it's side. the weight and the twoby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Re: Introducing the Prism Mendel - 14 years ago
yeah very much like it, except the prism is more like an updated Sells, instead of an updated Prusa. The z axis belt runs in a simple circle (actually more like a square, really) so is much more reliable and it's simple to adjust the tension. The prism also doesn't need feet, like the old mendel did. I don't think there's anything wrong with the mendelmax, but i just wanted to go in a different dby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Introducing the Prism Mendel - 14 years ago
I just wanted to announce my Mendel update, the Prism Mendel. I've been working on this idea for about 6 months. It was hard waiting to announce this, but I wanted to get everything up and running before I posted anything. It all works and the parts print well, so it's time. Parts were designed in sketchup, and the files and .stls will be posted to the wiki very soon (tonight). The build instrby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Prism Mendel - 14 years ago
I just wanted to announce here that I've put up my redesign of the Mendel on the wiki. I've named it the Prism. It has the same mechanics as a Sells Mendel, but with all new printed parts and 20x20 extrusion.by Buback - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Crowned pulley instead of flanged - 14 years ago
Great article and video! Thanks for sharingby Buback - Mechanics
Re: Sculptures of Great Renown - 14 years ago
Bust of Russian poet Vladimir Vladimirovich Mayakovskyby Buback - Object repositories
Re: Powder extruder - 14 years ago
...And where it has been done, it's on larger machines with larger carriages or fixed extruders. I think i remember le BigRep had one at some point.by Buback - Developers
Re: Nozzle diameter vs. Layer height - 14 years ago
a bit o/t, but I was thinking that with a almost- smooth .02 layer height, a very quick acetone bath might be enough to remove any trace of 3d printing. As far as I've read, acetone baths often end up distorting a print because you have to soak it too long in order to remove the layer bumpiness.by Buback - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: Problems with high precision prints.. - 14 years ago
In the past i've had issues with small holes having too many vertexes, causing many small moves in too short a time and overloading the processor. I think it ends up dropping some of the moves altogether. I've fixed this on my machine by using simpler holes with fewer vertexes. The idea is it's better to have a hole of fewer known vertexes than one of many random vertexes. Check out this chart iby Buback - Skeinforge
Re: Crowned pulley instead of flanged - 14 years ago
great, thanks. I'll have to give it a try someday soon.by Buback - Mechanics
Re: Crowned pulley instead of flanged - 14 years ago
So will a crowned pulley work the same on the toothed side of the belt? I'd like to try this on a 624 bearing.by Buback - Mechanics
Re: Vertical X-axis standard !And Contest W/ Prize Updates!
- 14 years ago
bryanandaimee Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Alternatively we could all just hack on our own designs, borrowing > from each other until enough people have tried > them out that a consensus emerges. I think > adoption will likely be more influenced by other > things though. I'm in that boat already. There are a bunch of ideas out there now that iby Buback - Developers
Re: Anything recommended on the safety front? / unattended printing ? - 14 years ago
I only print when i'm home. I'm a bit scared of fire, but i'm more scared of something breaking. ABS has acrid, unplesant smelling fumes. PLA has a sweet unoffensive smell and is better for an enclosed space.by Buback - General
Re: Vertical X-axis standard !And Contest W/ Prize Updates! - 14 years ago
Great job everyone! And Thanks for running everything Bryanandaimee! Hope you guys enjoy your prizes. :-)by Buback - Developers
Re: 3D printing jokes - 14 years ago
here's a proto-joke. probably make a good caption for a cartoon. imagine an office christmas party... "Janet, a bit tipsy from the champagne, didn't realize the new office photocopier was a 3D photocopier, so Steve got a nice bust for his bookshelf for christmas."by Buback - General
Re: What's the Purpose of Extra Shells? - 14 years ago
I find that extra shells make a part more rigid on it's surface. There is less "creak" (maybe just PLA?) when squeezing a part between my fingers with extra shells, and the parts just feel more solid. the second shell will print first, and the perimeter last and slower, so you have a nice, consistent exterior. the second shell also gives another surface for the perimeter to adhere to, making itby Buback - Skeinforge
Re: Why is PEEK needed? - 14 years ago
Back to topic: What about plaster instead of soapstone? you wouldn't need to machine it, even, since it can be cast in a mold. You could embed heat sink fins into the plaster to help with conductivity problems, and line the interior with ptfe to prevent porosity problems. It should also be relatively easy to print a mold ('course, you'd need a working printer first, or get a mold with your printeby Buback - Mechanics
Re: Large-scale 3d printer - 14 years ago
I'm sure it CAN be done, but even if it does work exactly as it does at our small scale, the end result might not be worth it. First issue is what your primary use would be. if you spend a lot of money building a big printer and only build reprap-sized objects, you've wasted a lot of money. If you have a design that cannot be printed on a reprap as it currently is, like a long tube, or skis, yoby Buback - General