Did you read this and verify it is all correct? Click Meby foshon - General
Quotebrnrd So, the nut trap is large and allows the nut to wander? So, this trades some lag in the z nuts to eliminate wobble? I think the Prusa2 x-ends may have been intentionally made to have oversized nut traps to do the same thing. That's how my Prusa2 works. lag? No I don't think so. Up and down the clearance is null, side to side there is play however.by foshon - General
I use these, Clicky. they allow the nut to wander horizontally while keeping verticle constraints. Great for taking out the last bit of wobble.by foshon - General
Why? Don't the majority of today's hot ends only utilize one? Is there a firmware available that utilizes two?by foshon - General
MAGMA is my new word for piece of shit that doesn't work.by foshon - General
Try lowering your PID MAX. In my experience, 265 defualt is too high for the much more efficient cartridge heaters, resulting in ridiclous PID values. Try 150 and re-run autotune. If it still overshoots lower it more. Edit: suasage fingersby foshon - General
AVRkire, Are you intentionally being less then honest? This screen shot was taken a few moments ago, while I was logged in (member for well over a year it said) and it CLEARLY shows that international shipping will be $42.00. At first, I saw your point; now I question your intent.by foshon - General
Whoops, misread first post.by foshon - Reprappers
I had the exact same issue earlier this year, this fixed it.by foshon - Printing
Why did you stop it? I have had large prints with VERY funky first layers come out completely usable in the end. As you said this is the machines first large print. Why not let her go and see what happens?by foshon - Printing
I also own both and I'm in agreement with Poly. The MM is a rock solid, easy to assemble platform. It has it's challenges but if you do your research and learn from others problems, you can start with solid mechanicals. This will allow you to learn how to print; more than half the battle IMHO. To be fair, you cannot mess up the MAX by bumping it. Once assembled it is solid and calibration lastsby foshon - Delta Machines
Try reducing Printerface to mini-mode, it works every time my machine does this. It only seems to happen when the print is full of small moves.by foshon - Printing
I thought I was getting the point, but the more you attack them the less credability you have. Might want to back off a bit IMHO.by foshon - General
The pdf source for the 1.2 shows a diameter of the threaded extension at 3.175. G3D has been very naughty, lol. Buda threaded extension pdfby foshon - Printing
Poly: I have an original Buda, I print PLA without a fan or issues. I had the pla kink/jam twice; once my hot end had shut off and i was forcing extrusion, the second time was before I had accurately calibrated my E steps per mm.by foshon - Printing
Richrap went through alot of trouble to help us noobs. This is his guide to Slic3r, the first step of which is extruder calibration. I highly recommend it. I wouldn't worry much about the bounce in your x-assembly, just level that bed. You will have to have it damn near perfect for decent prints anyhow. Click this for a leveling guide. Since you know you are far enough out of level to hit in soby foshon - Reprappers
I have most of the kinks out of my new printer. One that is hanging me up is these corner bumps. My last print failed becuase one of these cuased the X-axis to skip. My acceleration is set to 2000 and jerk is default Marlin. I printed a 10mm raft to completely eliminate any chance of warping, the failed print did not warp at all. On corners these nubs appear, the filament seems to be pulled inwarby foshon - Printing
Is the first layer extrusion width section under advanced in the print settings tab used to set the desired width? What will it try to do if I set it to default?by foshon - Slic3r
One fuse on the main,the 11A connection right?by foshon - RAMPS Electronics
I have hooked up the 24V PS and the kapton heater is rocking! Stable temps, big bed, I'm in geek heaven. My board (from ReprapDiscount the guys on Ebay) had 35V caps. I did have to remove the D1 diode, but other than that and the PID_MAX change it could not have been easier. Cefiar: Thanks, what would you recommend using as an in-line fuse. Is an automotive blade fuse adapter acceptable?by foshon - RAMPS Electronics
Everything still looking good for this?by foshon - General
Either your motor wiring is wrong or you need to increase current to the motor using the pot on the driver.by foshon - Reprappers
Your welcome. I'm glad I have learned enough to help someone else. The thermistor setting is in the config.h, near the top. You'll see all the available pre-made table selections in grey followed by the area you actually set which one you want to use. I use a budashnozzle and it runs pretty close to perfect with "7" selected for the hotend. I purchased my bed thermistor off ebay and (while I diby foshon - Reprappers
Noted all the 24v changes. Thanks a ton!by foshon - RAMPS Electronics
Possibly, I would check your firmware, re-up it even just to be sure. I had the exact same issue 3 weeks ago.by foshon - Reprappers
The scribbles are becuase your board and prontorface are set at different baud rates.by foshon - Reprappers
Looks like thats the way it was designed while using that extruder, these pics show the same issue on thingiverse. A gregs might allow for more movement, tilted gregs almost definitely.by foshon - General
How do you handle not having the usb port to run the Aurduino? Mines an SD card controlled lcd panel unit. Thanks for the advice, any ideas on where to get a reasonable 18A 24v supply? NM found a 18.8A 24vdc PS at Jameco, OTW!! Thanks againby foshon - RAMPS Electronics