I just want to STRONGLY agree with what A2 said here: QuoteA2 I think that the GDR, and Gus-Simpson family of 3d printers are pretty clever machines, and solve some major evolutionary hurdles, such as eliminating a lot of precision machined metal components. If there's a possibility that they can print to blueprint specification, then it's worth spending our time on solving. The GDR is, as farby JamesNewton - Delta Machines
QuoteSolidus Labs ...in scad with nema 17 and machine mounts. In case that helps.by JamesNewton - Delta Machines
QuoteSolidus Labs It is going to be open source. I will release the files when I am confident that the design is solid. Being able to print the printer is great if you have access to a printer. But since not everyone has access to a printer I wanted to use crowd funding to give some economies of scale benefit. Since the majority of the parts are printed, scaling with printing is not easily feasibby JamesNewton - Delta Machines
QuoteSolidus Labs I have ordered SLA prints of all the parts which I plan on using for master to make casting molds for short run production. How does everyone feel about crowd funding the production? Jon – Solidus Labs So... this is to be a commercial machine? You are not releasing the files? Or do you plan to do both? Honestly, the best part of this machine is that you can print so much ofby JamesNewton - Delta Machines
Excellent! Can't get much closer to the spirit of reprap than this! Almost everything is printed, only the motors, worm gear, electronics and hot end need be purchased. Well... a few bolts and bearings huh? But no belts, no long threaded rods, no metal cutting or shaping. I really hope you will release the files soon.by JamesNewton - Delta Machines
Well, the good news is that CNC firm/software and 3D printer firm/software are more alike than different. They look different, but are doing almost exactly the same thing under the hood. There is a firmware package called grbl that will make a RAMP's system into a CNC controller, and EMC2 or Mach3 isn't really that different from Prontrface once you get down to it, they take g-code and send it toby JamesNewton - General
QuoteAndreyR QuoteJamesNewton But it looks like the DC motor works ok for you... why change? As you can hear in the video, the rotation speed/RPM varies because the cement mix is not the same consistency throughout the entire extrusion and that's the major source for the discrepancy in the layers' width. And as you can see, the extrusion speed need to be reduced on the corners. Thus, a step motoby JamesNewton - General
You can probably get even more out of them if you switch to a CPU cooler (with a fan) instead of just a standard heatsink. They really are amazing little drivers. 1 horsepower = 745.69 watts But it looks like the DC motor works ok for you... why change?by JamesNewton - General
That is just neat! Congratulations! What are you going to do for a version 2? How big? What do you think you will need to drive it? Let me know if I can help.by JamesNewton - General
Quoteuncle_bob Did some indirect digging on Marlin and the Wantai stepper drivers. It appears that the current version of Marlin puts out 3 us step pulses. The controller should be happy with 1.5 us, so there's some margin. I'm curious where you got that 3us figure... Did you calculate that from the code or actually measure it with a scope? My measurements showed about 1.88us: I'd also likeby JamesNewton - Delta Machines
I have a PCB/ribbon cable adapter for the driver socket on a RAMPs board to the PMinMO open source standard for stepper motor drivers which works with the Linistepper, THB6064 and other drivers. I'm happy to share a few of them with anyone who is building an oversized LISA Simpson assuming you will post your results.by JamesNewton - Delta Machines
QuoteA2 @ JamesNewton It would be difficult, but not impossible to manually reduce the diameter, and maintain a concentric relationship with the the thread body. I would question how ridged it would be under load. Actually, it isn't all that hard if you have a hand drill, a clamp, and a good file. You just chuck the rod, then lock the drill on, and file until the thread are just gone. The pointby JamesNewton - Delta Machines
QuoteA2 19. I'm assuming you have access to a lathe to machine the worm gear. I'm thinking of ways that some one could do this at home without a lathe or special equipment. Possible solutions: Use a file, and a hack saw, or Dremel to remove the thread (all you need is a flat, the whole circumference does not need to be removed), then use a hand drill, and tap for the holes. If you carefullyby JamesNewton - Delta Machines
QuoteSolidus Labs 2. The worm wheel is 3d printer but the worm is just 1/2-10 lead screw. I usually get stock at about 10-20$ per meter. So the lead screw is attached to the motor shaft with a coupler? Thats... pretty cool! And 300mm/s is more than fast enough. Pretty darn neat.by JamesNewton - Delta Machines
Quotenicholas.seward ... I have yet to release the gear arm version. Should be within the month. Just so you know (like there could be any confusion! LOL) I'm really looking forward to trying to print one of these. It's actually sort of tied in to my own little project for a "SkyCam" robot in that they are both using cables instead of the more traditional gears or belts: I really think the idby JamesNewton - Delta Machines
Re: GDR (the worm gear drive version) designed by Jon @ Solidus Labs. That looks good! Couple of comments / questions: 1. Do you think it will move as fast as the GED? Or is the worm gear limited in speed in comparison? If it is slower, what is the advantage? 2. Where do you get the metal worm drive gear? That part is /not/ 3d printed, correct? What does it cost?by JamesNewton - Delta Machines
Just to make sure I'm not missing something: The files for the geared version of the Simpson or RepCrab ,o) have NOT been released? Or they have and I just having found them yet? Help a fan out with a link or a better keyword?by JamesNewton - Delta Machines
hackaday has an interesting article about Paste extruders including concrete: http://hackaday.com/2013/10/16/3d-printering-pastestruders/by JamesNewton - General
I wonder if a A Moineau pump could work for your concrete... "A Moineau pump is a type of positive displacement pump with steady flow (no pulsing). This type of pump is common in the food processing industry because it can efficiently pump slurries (like soup) without crushing the contents. " Looks like it can be used to extrude clay and ceramic mixesby JamesNewton - General
AndreyR Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... In the beginning, it was very promising- > the dry mix was extruded flawlessly- but when I > added water supply to the nozzle, the nozzle > started to clog,... Is it not possible to avoid adding the water inside the nozzle? Why not just spray it on the dry cement /after/ it comes out of the nozzle? johnrpm'by JamesNewton - General
Yeah, the supply doesn't have to be regulated. But the filtering capacitor has to be huge to prevent ripple. And you must make sure it isn't putting out more that 50 volts ever. I would suggest using a battery stack in addition to the cap. A stack of old led acid cells with a battery charger (some scooters have 36 or 48 volt chargers) is probably a better power source.by JamesNewton - General
AndreyR Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also, how can I get the max amps from your driver? > How many volts PCU is it better to use? I have > 12V, 16A. Oh goodness! The driver is rated up to 4 amps, 50 volts. Use a 48 volt supply and you will see much more power, especially at higher speeds. It will also get hotter, so make sure you have a good heatsinkby JamesNewton - General
I think the biggest problem is the chain bouncing on the X and Y axis. I was noticing that on the video and was concerned but wasn't going to say anything unless you really did have problems with missed steps. When the chain bounces, it puts a huge strain on the motor and if the bouce happens at just the wrong time, could lead to a missed step. Some method of taking the "slop" out of the chain woby JamesNewton - General
So first, WOW! I can't wait to see that thing running! That is some serious weight being moved about. The older versions of sprinter will work without the extruder thermister being connected at all. I'm using the version from April 19, 2011 (not sure of the version number) for testing since I don't have an extruder (quite yet, it's almost done). There may be features you need in later versions,by JamesNewton - General
I'd like to sell that board for you in the US if you make it. Fits in nicely with our line of open source stepper driver kits, including the 200 watt THB6064AH driver that will manage the tiny little step pulses from the Marlin and Sprinter firmware. The combination is perfect.by JamesNewton - RAMPS Electronics
Short question: Is there a way to change the polarity of the step pulse from normally off, pulse on briefly, to normally on, pulse off briefly? Background: We are getting ready to add an new stepper driver to the open source Linistepper brand that will be lower cost, higher power. This is potentially useful to 3d printer people who want to make big 3d printers with NEMA 23 motors and MORE POWER!by JamesNewton - Controllers