Hi All, I'm looking to use a new Duet 2 board on my 3D printer build, but I'm really wanting to use Marlin as I've managed to configure this perfectly for my application. I've seen some other 32 bit boards which do work, but the add-ons which the Duet 2 offer have caught my eye! Some people say that Marlin 2.0 works with the Duet 2, while others say it doesn't so I'm hoping if someone can giveby ayouden - Duet
Hi All, I've been getting highly frustrated at this issue with my Ender 3 Printer and I've ended up trying to use Cura, Simplify3D and Slic3r PE to fix this but to no avail... It seems to be that I'm getting some blobbing at the start of my perimeters (As shown in my 3DBenchy attached) I've tried editing the speeds, extra prime restart distance (negative values), wipes, coasting, hotend tempsby ayouden - Printing
Hello all, I posted this in the Slic3r thread and got no replies, so I'm hoping a wider spread might help. I've run into a very odd error when I'm setting up dual extrusion for a Prusa i3 MK2MM style set-up. The wipe tower seems to work, however, I'm getting these odd lines which aren't connected to it. They're really random and mess my printer up! You can see these towards the bottom of theby ayouden - General
Hello all, I've run into a very odd error when I'm setting up dual extrusion for a Prusa i3 MK2MM style set-up. The wipe tower seems to work, however, I'm getting these odd lines which aren't connected to it. They're really random and mess my printer up! Really odd... I'm at a loss as to what I can do to fix them as I've played with all the logical Dual extrusion settings... When I disableby ayouden - Slic3r
The thickness was within 0.01mm of the slicer settings, so I'm happy with that.by ayouden - Printing
Thanks for the replies. I've calibrated my extruder and flow rate with a single-walled calibration cube. I don't think the hot plastic thing would cause this as I've got a minimum layer time on a 20x20mm of 15seconds with a blower fan on 100%. It's happening on all 4 corners as I slicer alternates the starting corner every 4 layers. I've spent a day of testing and got no further towards solviby ayouden - Printing
Hello all, I've got a really odd artifact on my prints at the moment. I'm printing a 20x20mm cube and the edges seem to bulge where the perimeter starts and stops on the corner. images: I'm using Simplify3D and altered pretty much every setting under the sun! I'm all out of ideas, so maybe someone has some advice on this troublesome topic? Look forward to hearing any suggestions. Regards,by ayouden - Printing
Hello All, I was wondering if it's possible to reconfigure Marlin so that it uses one of my unused Hot-End Heater outputs as an Always on Fan output? It's but of a long story as to why I want to do this, but basically, I'm very limited with my 12V outputs as I run from a 24V Power supply and the only 12V Output I can get is from the HE Outputs. I run a single hot-end machine, so I can utiliseby ayouden - Firmware - Marlin
Hello all, I have noticed a very odd thing with my printer. For thin walls (See image of 3DBenchy) There is no infill between the two sides. I have studied the G-Code and that doesn't have any infill (Note there is no yellow lines present) Is there anything I can do to make Cura fill this in? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Regards, Alexby ayouden - General
Hello all, So I recently purchased a Rambo and have decided to hook a cooling fan upto it. However, for some reason the F0 are always on and I cannot turn them off! I thought this was funny so I switched over to F1. Again, they turned on and are now stuck on. I have no idea what is going on?! I hope someone can help. Regards, Alexby ayouden - General
Hello, I have recently bought a LCD screen for my Rambo. However, when i hooked it up and enabled the corresponding LCD in Marlin it didn't work and these weird clicks started to happen when I powered it on. Here is a link to it: HERE Hopefully someone can help me with this as I am at a complete loss! I have tried a different LCD, different LCD cables, different LCD adapter board. Still theby ayouden - General
Hello all, I have recently purchased a RAMBo board as an upgrade to my Ramps1.4 However, looking at the board I can see that the connectors are different to that of the Ramps. (See attachments) Does anyone know the name/style of these connectors? I really want to get some from eBay and wire them up as they should be. Any info would be greatly appreciated! Regards, Alexby ayouden - General
Hello all, I am currently having a go at my own DIY RepRap 3D Printer. My design however uses x2 X Motors. I am using a Rambo controller board and that has x1 X Motor, x1 Y Motor and x2 Z motor headers. Am I right in thinking that if I swap the pin definitions in Marlin I can turn the Original Z motor headers into X headers, and the single X into the Z header? I hope someone can help me on tby ayouden - General
Try this: Insert the PTFE tubing like so: Now try and pull the black collar up, like in this picture: I used some tweezers to do so. Once you have done that the PTFE tubing shouldn't move in or out. See here: The reason for doing this is that it prevents the PTFE tubing from creeping upwards. Hope this helps! Regardsby ayouden - General
Hi Nikki, Can you send some images of what is occurring? I have a feeling that you need to insert the PTFE liner in in a certain way. Regards.by ayouden - General
Hi Mac, What value do you have in your firmware for the thermistor? Regardsby ayouden - General
Hi, I think it would solve many problems! If it doesn't solve all, then we can discount it from out investigations thats for sure. You may also need to turn the current up on the extruder motor if it makes a guttering sound. Regardsby ayouden - General
Cheap Chinese 3D Printers are like the plague. Avoid at all costs!by ayouden - General
Hi, By looking at the images you have a knock-off e3D hot-end. I have used these in the past and they are quite frankly awful! (I have about 5 or 6 in my bits-box as I didn't learn the first few times!) The main reason is that the inside of the heating chamber isn't always smooth. It is rough and plastic LOVES to stick to these imperfections and makes it near impossible to force it through. Iby ayouden - General
Hi, I think your hot-end could be blocked in some way. Would you be able to take some pictures of your extruder and hot-end? Regardsby ayouden - General
Are you able to update firmware to the Arduino being used? And what control board are you using? Regardsby ayouden - General
ahhhh, You need to use 'Brim' rather than 'Raft' This should help you!by ayouden - General
What is your first layer like? I have mine set to 0.3mm, yet I have a 0.1-0.2mm gap. The reason for this is to push the Plastic INTO the Kapton tape to help the adhesion. Maybe try doing that? Also setting the first layer to 200% will help. Regards, Alexby ayouden - General
Hi, The best way I have found is to print with a large brim on the print. approx 10-15mm. It won't eliminate all warp as it is near impossible unless you print onto masking tape (your part will never come off!) My set-up is 110* bed with Kapton. Then use a large brim on the part. Hope this helps. Regards, Alexby ayouden - General
Hey, I have been using the V6 Lite for some time now, and I am really impressed with it! It has the same mounting options as the larger Full V6 hotend from e3D. I have the Full V6 on my RepRap i3 and i2. (Both with Wade Extruders) They both fit exceptionally well and there is no play in the mount at all! So to answer your question in a very simple way: Yes, it fits perfectly with no alteratiby ayouden - General
Hey, So from my experience of designing and building 3D Printers I find it useful if you know what parts you will be working with. (Motors, Electronics board, etc...) With it being your first build I would highly recommend getting the parts in and then build a CAD model of the 3D Printer with the parts you ordered. From there you know everything will fit together right down to the very last nuby ayouden - General
Hi Nikki, I have found 0.2mm to be the best for me in regards to speed and quality. However, 0.1 gives very good prints! Regards, Alexby ayouden - General
Still haven't managed to get this to work Anyone got any ideas?by ayouden - General
Hi Chris, Pictures are coming very soon! We are shooting the Promo video for the Kickstarter in the next few weeks and as part of that Professional shots will be taken. Sub-par photos taken on my mobile won't cut it sadly! Regards, Alexby ayouden - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Hello, My name is Alex and I am the founder of NFire Labs. Over the course of 12months, NFire Labs has been dedicated to bring the next big thing to 3D Printing; A 3D Printer which grows with you! If you sign-up to our newsletter, Link can be found HERE, you will be the first to hear about the launch date and exclusive pictures of the 'NFire 1'. Another bonus of signing up is that if you baby ayouden - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements