Show all posts by user
Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Z-axis threads accuracy in prints - 9 years ago
I found a supplier in Ontario that has 1.5Meters long TR8*8 4 starts accurate threads.. also ordered some anti-backlash nuts to go with it. I'll have enough rod to put 2 on the printer i'm building and change the z-axis belt drive (yes bed is lifting with belts, works great except when the motor cuts out. then bed drops.. that's why i'm also changing them to the same threaded rods) on my older pby Rigor_M - General
Re: Z-axis threads accuracy in prints - 9 years ago
What do you guys think of the tr8*8 rods sold on ebay and robodigg (that comes already installed on a stepper) ? And if thoses are a good choice, a plce the i could get some in Canada. Thanksby Rigor_M - General
Z-axis threads accuracy in prints - 9 years ago
Hi All, So i'm building another printer. This one will have threaded rods to lift/lower the bed on the Z-axis. I'd like to know, Do ACME threads make for a better and more noticeable print quality vs the normal threads ?? I have some 3/8" ACME threads but, I would need to bore GT2-20T / ID:8mm pulleys and get some ID: 3/8" bearings OR use normal 5/16" (close enough to 8mm) threads that I aby Rigor_M - General
ABS minimum soft tempratures - 9 years ago
Hi, I need to build a case for a project that will be bolted on a surface that will be heated. I did my tests with a thermocouple and the hot surface stabalize at max 81C (wont go over). Usually, run time is about 6 minutes : ramping the hot surface to 80C then goes down from there). At other times, it could also run longer. (around 3-4 hours, goes to 80C and won't go any higher) Of course,by Rigor_M - General
Re: Homing Z-axis before disable steppers - 10 years ago
Yes, that's not the problem I do have a G28 Z0 and then a M84 I mean, when the bed is up and after a certain amount of time (stepper timeout) it will slam the bed.. I want to change this behavior in the firmware. Thanks anywaysby Rigor_M - Developers
Homing Z-axis before disable steppers - 10 years ago
Hi, Hope i'm the right section of the forum :-) I have a belt-drive Z-axis and when the steppers are disabled and the bed is up, it slams down causing current to drive back to the stepper controller. I'm using the Marlin firmware and i'm looking at modding the code so the Z-axis goes home before disabling the steppers. i've tried a couple a things.. first modifying the "M84" (to start and seeby Rigor_M - Developers
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
Thats the trouble.. the heater is too much.. it can go up to 150F in a couple of minutes and I have to stop it beacause it would go higher The thermostat is a bit on the cheap side.. and the heater is outside of the heat chamber so its pretty hard to control.by Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
hum.. i see... well.. I printed the part @ 240C.. maybe I could go down to 230C. The bed is at 110C. I did not get any warping yet.. (bet there was some time left . I'm using hairspray on kapton tape maybe 105C would make the temp in the chamber at around 110F I have to play around.. So, from the look of things, I don't need the ceramic heater ?by Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
So, I did the closeup on my printer.. here is the before and after images. Before After Here is a partial result print (mind that it did not fail, I stoped the print) Look at the bottom and the last upper layers.. what could do that ? I got a small ceramic heater heater from my local big box store. but.. I could not use it as the internal temp was going at 124F++. with the bed alone, the temby Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
QuoteRalph.Hilton Insulation under the bed helps. I use cardboard covered in reflective metallic tape. If your order gets botched the seller should correct it surely? I don't know about putting cardboard under the silicon pad.. that thing is pretty powerful. i'm sure that if I close up the printer, that alone should raise the heat inside the box at a pretty good level.. coupled with a 200W bulbby Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
Great thanks, i'll try to close up ASAP :-) Do you guys also insulate the bed ? For me, I have a 3mm glass, under is a 3mm aluminium plate and a 500W/120V silicon heat pad stuck under the aluminium glass & aluminium is 270mmx340mm and the heatpad is centered with a 230mmx300mm. Should I isolate the bed ?by Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
@ggherbaz : i'll get some foamboard from the store after work. My Custom made printer is in form of a cube so should not be hard to close up all around. I know you said 3 sides, witch ones ? side to side, i would guess but the other one, backside or top ? My office space is already at around 70F year round.. so ramping it up to 80 should be easy with a 200W bulb. especially if the printer is inclby Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
Also, i have some cardboard here that i could use to close off the sides and top. Temporary for the time being. What do you think ?by Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
Would a forced air heater do the trick ? Ive seen some cheap ones at my ocal big box store. I could get one tomorrow if you say its ok. Thanksby Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
Thank you all for the hands-on knowledge. I did try one with 2x 100W bulbs, (one in front and the other in back). I wasn't sure it helped. @sheepdog43: Got any good values you use that I could play around with ? @ggherbaz: 1. Do you have to shine the bulb at the current layer being printed or the part in general ? 2. Also, do I need both steps or just one ? (cause I don't have a ceramic heaby Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
I set the bed at 110C with capton tape on it and a layer of hairspray.. I get minimal shrinkage on that side. And, like alot of printer, mine is opened.. I do plan on building a printer with Plexiglas surrounding it..by Rigor_M - General
Re: PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
For the example that I gave above, I was using a 0.2mm layer height, 230c hotend, (I does the same thing if I set it to 240c), print speed is 40mm/sec Hope this help define my settings J-Fby Rigor_M - General
PLA vs ABS tough or not ?! - 10 years ago
Ok, So I guess this topic was discussed multiple times on this forum but still, I can't wrap my head around it Here is the scenario : If I print a thin wall (lets say 2mm think) horizontal layers going up. One in PLA and the other in ABS. the ABS is so easy to break between layers when the PLA is much harder (will eventually break). Everywhere i read that if you need something solid, print iby Rigor_M - General
Re: Prusa i3 x-carriage print - 10 years ago
Thanks, i'll use PLAby Rigor_M - General Mendel Topics
Prusa i3 x-carriage print - 10 years ago
Hi all, Quick question, i'm upgrading my old mendel i2 to the Prusa 3. i've got about every part printed in PLA. Last part I need to print is the X-carriage. For those who have a Prusa i3, should I print this part in PLA or ABS ? I know its near a heat source and i'll be printing ABS with it.. is it too close and it could warp from the heat coming from the hotend ? thanks for any advise. J-Fby Rigor_M - General Mendel Topics
Re: Ordering filament - 10 years ago
I ordered from magikmaker.ca . looks like he sells "3D Printer supplies" spools.. witch I ordered from another reseller and had good results. I had great service, the guy wrote to me asking if what I ordered was correct (I had a spool of red PLA and a spool of red ABS) so he checked. that what I consider personalized service ! I'll wait and see the batch but so far, I'm liking the service, andby Rigor_M - General
Ordering filament - 10 years ago
Hi, I'm looking at 2 site right now and can't makeup my mind. filaments.ca and magicmaker.ca. both seems to have decent products. someone ever ordered from one or the other ? impressions on them ? Thanks, J-Fby Rigor_M - General
Ordering filament - 10 years ago
Moved to General discussionsby Rigor_M - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Using the PS_ON - 10 years ago
Hi, I'm using a ATX power supply with the PS_ON pins ont a Rumba board + 128x64 LCD screen. Everything is working fine except that when turning the power off (with the LCD, havent tried the M80/81 codes) the extruder0 and fan0 mosfets turn on. now, they dont work because the 12V is off but still, the GND pins on each mosfets are activated. i've looked in the marlin_main.cpp file and I see a Sby Rigor_M - Controllers
Re: How to wire PS-ON to control PC Power Supply? - 10 years ago
QuoteCptanPanic You misunderstood my question. I am not using the 5V standby to power arduino, but the USB. But am wanting to use the ATX power on feature to turn on the ATX power supply, which works as long as the arduino has power. But if I remove power to arduino by disconnecting USB, the ATX power supply tries to turn on. It looks like this PS_ON pin goes directly to the arduino, so is thby Rigor_M - RAMPS Electronics
Re: G-code for I/O pins - 10 years ago
Thanks, Thats exactly what I needed. :-)by Rigor_M - General
G-code for I/O pins - 10 years ago
Hi, Anyone aware if there are some G-Codes (the Mxxx ones) that can turn on or off I/O pins on the board ? (in my case, from a RAMPS 1.4 board). I looked around the marlin_main.cpp file but can't confirm it in there. If not, I'll add some my self. Thanks, J-Fby Rigor_M - General
Re: Auto Bed Leveling Servo not responding (M280 P0 S80) - 10 years ago
use a shielded cable to eliminate the interference.. but. I find it hard to believe that this could be the problem.. I have my servo cables bundled with the thermistor, heat element and fan wires all in a cable jacket and it works great. but like I said, you could use a shielded cable for the long run.. just connect the shield to the GND wire on both sides. J-Fby Rigor_M - Reprappers
Re: Is my RAMPS at fault? - 10 years ago
Hint: before using another step driver, use a DMM, set one wire to GND and the other on the trip pot.. you should read something below 1Volt. keep that reading for when you put it in its original place. Then, set it to 0.4V. remove the driver and put it in the E0 socket.. ajust from there. That way, you wont have to recalibrate the driver when you put it back. J-Fby Rigor_M - Reprappers
Re: Corexy - How to invert only the X axis direction - 10 years ago
#1 : If you have a Digital servo, yes, it will jitter, that is normal.. if you cant stand it, then i suggest you get a analog one. #2 : have you tried to invert the motor cable ? I had that same problem. my prints were inverted on the build plate compared to the computer screen. #4 i'm not sure about this one. if the speed is the same as when homing, there should be some settings in Marlin thaby Rigor_M - Reprappers