As menitoned above, if you have inconsistent z-stepping, you could try changing this Z full steps/mm setting in your slicer. I don't know if Cura or S3D has it, nor have I ever used it, but I just found it in Slic3r. Looks like an interesting feature. Maybe give that a try, particularly since you're Delta is probably belt driven. I may try messing with this setting on my printer as I have a loby runninfarmer - Printing
Hahaha, I thought that was a real random post. I'm curious more about the wipe movements you mentioned DaGameFace. Is that something customizeable in any/all of the common slicers out there? Contemplating swapping to a smaller nozzle and trying that. Going to be changing my z-axis to belt drive so that'll put that machine down for a while. I have a Flashforge that I could try it on again, hadby runninfarmer - Printing
I can try wider extrusions but now I've narrowed the issue down to layer changes. I tried disabling retraction, but it's like on every layer change it under extrudes on the interior perimeter, even with retraction disabled. Once it's started the external perimeter it's good again. I'm using aligned rectilinear fill pattern and that looks really good. I took a video and will get a YouTube link pby runninfarmer - Printing
I have some 1.75mm PVDF filament I recently extruded with my filastruder for sale in 100g, 250g, and 500g quantities for $50, $100, and $150 respectively, with freee shipping to the continental U.S. PVDF is a part of the teflon family of plastics and has excellent chemical resistance to many solvents, alcohols, acids, and dilute bases. From Arkema's website: Kynar® fluoropolymers are specifieby runninfarmer - For Sale
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll tweak both infill layer width and pattern to see if I can dial it in. I had issues with honeycomb so I'll give rectilinear a try. I've also had it running at full bed temp (87°C), so I'll try it where I lower the bed temp to 50-60°C after the first layer. Also, here's a video I took when I took the above pic:by runninfarmer - Printing
I've recently extruded some Kyna PVDF plastic and now I'm having the joy of trying to dial in my printer. I'm having some issues and will welcome some pointers. PVDF is a slow extruding plastic so print speeds have to be slow, I already have all speeds at 20 mm/s and non print moves at 80 mm/s. I have a 1:5 ratio geared extruder (all metal hotend) running at 260C. I can get the print to stickby runninfarmer - Printing
I've checked out everything and can't seem to find any mechanical issues. One thing I was wondering about is the micro stepping. I'm using a 5.18:1 geared stepper motor to power my z-axis, currently in 16X micro stepping. My calculations determined I needed 2072 steps/mm with an 8mm lead screw lead. Do you think it's trying to land on half steps or doing rounding errors? If I need to decreasby runninfarmer - General
I've just set up a new printer, but I'm having z-axis issues. I have it calibrated to the right height, but I have errors that scale with size. Specifically the relative error is largest for the smallest prints. I did a couple prints at different sizes and I found I would need different steps/mm for those sizes. For a 4mm height I would need 2335 steps/mm, for 134 mm, I would need 2159 steps/mby runninfarmer - General
I'm using 4 screws because I'm doing an XYZ moving gantry and and wanted overconstraints to prevent X/Y movements from throwing the z-axis off. They are also 8mm 4 start leadscrewsby runninfarmer - General
How much is torque and speed affected by wiring all four motors in series using 12V? Would I need to go up to 24V with all four in series? I wouldn't need high speed since it's the z-axis.by runninfarmer - General
Has anyone ever wired 4 steppers from one driver? The RAMPs board has two parallel outputs for the z-axis. I was thinging of wiring two pairs of 36 oz-in steppers in series, then connecting the two pairs in parallel by way of the two z-axis outputs on the RAMPs board. Will this draw too much current for the driver, or lose too much torque. I'm using a 12V regulated power supply. I have both A4by runninfarmer - General
Cool idea with the foam filled extrusions. I'm interested to see how well they perform!by runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
Hi, sorry for late reply. Thanks for the compliments! It was my first attempt at a minimalist printer. I ended up changing the z-axis over to screw drive to prevent tensioning issues I had with the belt. I sold the machine but can still try to answer questions that anyone has.by runninfarmer - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Thanks for the fast reply! Where are the trigonometric calculations implemented for DRIVE_SYSTEM==DELTA? I've searched it within configuration.h and can't find where those calcs are? Unless they're in ui.h?by runninfarmer - Repetier
I believe I could prgram the trigometric formulas with some help. For instance, if the cartesian coordinate is [43,30,4]. I know the polar coordinate would be at Z height of 4mm. Essentially I would have y-axis =sqrt(43^2+30^2), and x-axis motor= atan(30/43) degrees. I wouldn't use an x-axis endstop, but I would use y-axis endstop, which would be enough for the position since y-axis is radiuby runninfarmer - Repetier
I'd like to build a printer like Polar3D's polar based printer: [3dprint.com]. I'd like to use Repetier firmware but I'm not sure how to configure the firmware to have one motor rotate the build platform, while the other two motors control Z and Y axes. I appreciate any info on if this has been done before!by runninfarmer - Repetier
I wanted to show my latest project, called the CraneBot. It's my first build using v-slot and metal plate carriages I machined using "at home" tools. It's similar to the Bukito and Openbot on openbuilds.com. I wanted to build a solid machine with minimzed parts count, fast to assemble, and be fairly portable. The link for the thingiverse page is here: I'm pretty pleased with the v-slot. Verby runninfarmer - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I've played with 16mm rod/linear bearings, v-slot, and the Delta-Pi linear motion setup using 623zz bearings on square steel tube. Out of all those think the best option for your scale-up will be v-slot. Smooth motion, quiet and can be rigid using 20-60 profiles. What I've found is that you can easily machine your own carriage plates out of 1/8" aluminum using a printed drill template from a staby runninfarmer - General
I used the actual reduction ratio of 26.85 for the calculation, not 27. Sorry I rounded numbers in the first post, . Good point with the 1/2 setting. With 1/2 setting will my A4988 driver run cooler? I'm not sure how to set 1/2 stepping for just the z-axis and have 1/16th for X and Y since in repetier configuration it's: /** \brief Micro stepping rate of X, Y and Y tower stepper drivers */by runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
Thanks! I printed the cube a little too fast. I think it was 45-50 mm/s. It did shake the bed a little bit, but it's so heavy that the frame itself didn't move. I need to do some more tests at 30mm/s. I also think my acceleration is too low since I'm getting bowed in sides on the cube. I'm using 1/16th stepping and my steps/mm for Z-axis is 2148, which is close to 8mm threaded rod.by runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
Installed hotend finally and got it printing. Here's a video of the first print: Here's a pic of the cube:by runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
I just picked some of these bad boys: They're 3"x3" 80/20 inc extrusions and I'd like to use them for the cross members. How how hard would it be to adapt the extrusion brackets for these? I would still use 2040 v-slot for the tower rails.by runninfarmer - Delta Machines
Are you using repetier host or another software to manually move the axis? In repetier host there are additional settings for homing aside from the eeprom, so make sure they corroborate with your endstops (min or max?). Also make sure the printer shape is set correctly in the printer settings. The manual control might be confused on where you're located after you've homed. If using min endstoby runninfarmer - Reprappers
That's actually the one I tried. It helped initially, but it seems the issue is in the hot end of mine. I suspect cooling issue since I can always feed the first couple mm from a cold start smoothly and then it skips like no other.by runninfarmer - Prusa i3 and variants
I've attempted extruding PLA with the Folgertech extruder and it's next to impossible. I even swapped out to a larger torque motor and tried using an upgraded extruder design. I'm wondering if I can salvage the hotend and redesign the extruder body. I was also considering boring the hotend to 0.5 mm? Is cooling the largest reason for the jamming?by runninfarmer - Prusa i3 and variants
I went that there last year but did not submit for a table. I'm going this year as well. I'm not sure what you do to get info on for your table. You can try to contact SeeMeCNC since they're the main sponsor. Not sure if I'll sign up for a table spot yet though.by runninfarmer - General
Hi n.glasson, thanks for the compliment! That's a good point, I had played around with turning it 90. The benefit of the current away is eliminating a couple printed brackets with it bolted to the frame. My carriage right now will clear the z-axis motors but I didn't think about the filament. I had the idea that I could get away with using one Z-axis motor in the 90 degree orientation you mentiby runninfarmer - CoreXY Machines
Solved the problem. Turns out I had a bad ATX power supply. It had been making funny noises so I had suspected it wasn't good. Hopefully this helps anyone in the future.by runninfarmer - General
After some investigating I've narrowed down the issue to my hot end wires. The RAMPS board seems to be ok since if I unhook one of the hot end wires, and then send power to the outputs, it doesn't affect the other stepper motors. I'm wondering if there's a grounding issue somewhere with my extruder connections and or RAMPs board? I've unhooked the extruder stepper motor and still have problems.by runninfarmer - General
I'm having a weird issue I've never seen before with a RAMPS board. When I power my hot end with the manual control in repetier it powers my x and y steppers. I have the wires pretty isolated from the hot end wire. When I go to make carriage movements with the hot end on, the steps are jerky and definitely different when the hot end's off. With the hotend off, the x and y axes work fine in myby runninfarmer - General