These are all now sold!by Pointy - Ormerod
I have broken down my old Ormerod MK1 for parts and have the following available.. Aluminium Arm and bed support Original 3d printed parts, which I think is complete but I haven't checked. The only part I know for sure that is broken is the adjustable z-runner-mount (front piece in photo 3) Original acrylic and wooden parts ATX PSU board Bag of misc 3d printed replacement parts If someby Pointy - Ormerod
These are still available, here's a photo of the parts... On top of that (not pictured) is the extruder, minus the motor. Also, for an extra £5 I can include a 12v MK3 220mm dia aluminium heated bed with thermistor. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Delta Machines
Sorry to drag up and old thread, but I have a set of 3d printed parts for the Cherry Pi III, is someone just wants to bung me a fiver for postage. I think it is pretty much a complete set, including delta rods and springs. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Delta Machines
This used to be an Ormerod 1, but now it's a Pointyrod, I don't thinks any of the original parts are left on the printer but are probably included in the spares, you could almost build the original Ormerod using them There are so many mods/upgrades that I probably can't remember them all but I do know it is using Igus rails and bearings, an Escher 3D sensor board and a full size sd card adapterby Pointy - For Sale
Quotejaguarking11 I have been on vacation for some time. Love the look of the extruder in your setup. I see you kept the faucet handle I would love to test out your version of the extruder. I have been thinking of making a direct drive version as well for those who dont mind adding 200G to their carriage. Let me know when you upload it. Yes I kept the handle, it makes it look retro. The vby Pointy - Mechanics
Quoteachaz QuotePointy If this is undesirable for ABS, I will look at how I can block/vent the airflow. except in very limited scenarios this is very undesirable with ABS. Will cause terrible layer bonding and the result will be a very brittle part I spent the morning redesigning my heatsink & fan mounts to accommodate a slider panel that can be fitted at the top for PLA or the bottom forby Pointy - Ormerod
I know it's a completely different printer/electronics but I had the same problem with my Ormerod. It was fixed after I updated the firmware (which I believe may have had some movement code changes) and upped the acceleration/speed settings in the config. For Smoothie you would be looking at acceleration (M201), x_axis_max_speed, y_axis_max_speed (M203). I am not sure if Smoothie has an equivalby Pointy - Printing
QuoteDarathy If you have some acetone ,put some in a flask and mix in some of the ABS fillament(the failed part will work aswell) making ABS slurry ,you can apply that to the heated bed with a paint brush in a thin layer. It will help it not to warp. As for brittle try increasing temperature to 235 or 240. I might have some acetone lurking in the shed, if so I will give it a try. Quotedc42 Youby Pointy - Ormerod
I have printed off a spare X carriage/nozzle mount just in case! First attempt failed. I tried 100 deg bed and 230 deg hot end. It started off very well and then about 3/4 of the way through the print, the print came off the bed. It looks like it has warped up at the front. The other thing I have noticed is that the part is very brittle and easy to pull apart. In case it's relevant the ABS iby Pointy - Ormerod
Quoteayudtee Hi Pointy, The settings that I use are 100 deg bed and 230 deg hotend. I am using a 4 mil kapton sheet on the glass bed, which is much sturdier than the kapton tape that came with my Ormerod 2. I clean it with acetone and use nothing else and get good adhesion. The first time I printed with abs the hotend fell off of the carriage, as the pla nozzle mount is not able to handle the aby Pointy - Ormerod
Hey guys, I know that there are some long time Ormerod users on here that print with ABS, while I have only ever printed PLA, in the 2+ years I have had my Ormerod. I do have the need to print an ABS part, so I am wondering if some of you experienced ABS guys would be kind enough to share some settings. For reference I am printing PLA with the bed at 65 deg for the first layer and then 55 deg fby Pointy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 QuotePointy I personally have no problem working with mains voltage, but I do want to keep this all 12V. Also, as I am only going to print PLA with this Delta, it seems silly to have a super high powered heated bed. (I am not sure what in my Ormerod,I think it's a MK2, but the heat times are only a few minutes for 65 degrees) Why not 24V? If you will be using 0.9deg stepper motors forby Pointy - Delta Machines
Quoteetfrench 345mm length for 300mm print area sounds about right. You can make the bed as large as you like as long as it doesn't hit the belts. Enclosing the printer is harder when the build plate extends past the horizontals. I'd turn your printer upside down as it makes wiring and maintenance a lot simpler. A non-fake Fotec SSR makes using mains electricity safe. I'm using a Keenova 3by Pointy - Delta Machines
I am 90% of the way through my new Delta build and the last pieces of the puzzle are the heated bed and delta arms. The goal was to use as few printed parts as possible, and so far there are no structural pieces at all. I am really pleased with how it's come out so far and want to make sure I get the arms & heated bed right. Here's a few pictures to introduce you... Here you can see the basby Pointy - Delta Machines
QuoteDavek0974 Here you go..... You sir, are a gentleman! Cheers, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Do have a dxf file for the X-Arm Dave? More specifically I would like to know the exact position of the circled hole, in relation to the first extruder slot in the following picture... I have designed a version of jk11's Modicum extruder for the Ormerod, and would like to use that hole as an optional fixing point. (see here for some pictures) Regards, Lesby Pointy - Ormerod
Having decided to rebuild my delta, I wanted to remove as many printed structural parts as possible. I am going to be using the Robotdigg metal corners, carriages and effector. I decided to put my mini CNC to use and make some acetal carriage trucks, (I would like to have these in aluminium, but I only have a crappy 200W spindle and don't think it's up to the job) I am really pleased with howby Pointy - Delta Machines
QuotePRZFor geometry simulation, you can use the OpenScad delta simulator here : That looks like a very useful tool, if I knew what numbers to put in it. It could really do with an idiots pictorial guide to the important values, to help people like me. What exactly is beam_int_radius? Is there anything else that needs changing if I am using Traxxas joints? QuotePRZFor geometry simulation,by Pointy - Delta Machines
What better way to test it than with a 6 1/2 hour print... Really pleased with the results. This is what it looks like in the flesh... Once it has been tested a bit more, I will put up the files for download, in case anyone else wants to give it a go. Regards, Lesby Pointy - Mechanics
Quotejaguarking11I would not put that curve on the output. I think a straight shot is a much better way out the extruder as it reduces friction. PTFE tubing is used to get the radious curves you may or may not need. My .02c, this is a truely open design so you can do whatever you like. . Thanks for the input. I couldn't see another way of mounting the extruder and the filament really needs to cby Pointy - Mechanics
Quotedc42 QuotePointy Do you have the sensor boards in stock Dave, should I just order from escher3d? Yes, I have them in stock (so does Filastruder for those in the USA). Thanks Dave, I put in an order. I finally got to print a few test pieces and the results were encouraging, especially considering i was using the 3 year old filament that came with my Ormerod. I had a few problems with the eby Pointy - Delta Machines
Quotejaguarking11The sensors have been flawless. No issues to report honestly. I plan on using them on my CNC mill build as well. They seem very accurate and more importantly they are repeatable. What size magnets are you using,? I have some about 5x3mm but I am thinking something even smaller might be better. I am also thinking of how I can set up some sort of test rig with my digital calipersby Pointy - Mechanics
Quotedc42 Les, how big is your printer? If it isn't too small, you could consider using a mains-powered bed heater (easy to do safely on a delta), then you can use a single smaller PSU and fit both the electronics and the PSU under the bed as I do: No big enough for that., I have just enough room for the Smoothieboard & Motors... Unfortunately, not much progress to report. While printingby Pointy - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 There are no traces near the top edge of the IR sensor. However, you should make sure that the ground plane on the underside of the board cannot short against the heatsink. I could move it down by 1/2mm, as it's currently set to 1.5mm above the nozzle. I see that when I overlay your mount, the sensor is only 1mm above the nozzle. Have you had any problems with the sensor board catchingby Pointy - Delta Machines
Quotejaguarking11Hey. im glad you got yours going. The steps per/mm sound about right. I would do this if I were you. Unplug your hot end and trim the filament flush with the bowden. Then command the extruder to extrude 100mm of plastic. Then measure from the edge of the tube to the tip of the filament. Then simply take your knowsn steps in this case 208 then multiply it by desired distance whichby Pointy - Mechanics
Just have a quick play with my effector design and came up with this... You can see from the first image, the board is just about 0.25mm too high, but I am hoping there are no traces close to the top edge so I can file it down a tad. I would also probably have to solder the connecting wires directly to the board, as I don't think there is room for the connector/pins.. I'll have to print oby Pointy - Delta Machines
Quotedc42I attach an OpenScad model of the IR sensor. There are some designed for printable mounts linked to in the fitting instructions at . Thanks for the model Dave, looking at your mount, there is about 3.3mm between the back of the PCB and heatblock, is this the absolute minimum you would recommend? Quotedc42I have the Robotdigg 2020 aluminium corners. They look very similar to printed cby Pointy - Delta Machines
Quotenka You might want to look at the BLTouch for the calibration, its a nice little package Not sure about that one. QuoteMatt,Wheatley Hi Les, I use the differential IR and optical sensors for the end stops. I hardly ever have to recalibrate. Regards, Matt Thanks Matt what optical sensors are they and how accurate are you finding them? Having played about with the heated bed today, Iby Pointy - Delta Machines
As it's well over a year since I started my CP III, I think it's time to dust of the cobwebs and get it finished. From memory it's pretty much ready to go, I just have to fit the heated bed and finish the new belt driven extruder. I also remember it being a real pain to calibrate, so I think a Z probe is in order, After catching up with 20 odd pages of this thread, it seems there are 2 sensibleby Pointy - Delta Machines