Introducing a new plugin for OctoPrint that will transforms the entire OctoPrint layout into a Touch/Mobile friendly interface with all features intact and down to the smallest resolutions, possible. The philosophy is to keep other clients intact of the interface, so once you active the plugin on a device, only that device will show the TouchUI. Some special features: Mouse events will mimicby DragoslaV - General
I never intended to suggest yours didn't, I was referring to the design I and Olaf posted I like your separate fan feature, but the fact remain, that I would prefer more build height by lowering the mounting points.by DragoslaV - Delta Machines
Quote3DFreezeMe When connecting the two down blowing fans to the D9 connection, you can control them. On for PLA after first layer or completely off for ABS. Whatever you want, need or like. No, turning it off or on is not the problem, the problem is that you cannot turn it off because it would also turn off the cooling of your heatsink and therefor the filament inside the insulator could get moby DragoslaV - Delta Machines
I believe with Olaf's design the air can only escape trough the bottom, therefor cooling the object. That is a really neat concept. However I would like to print ABS (and other filaments) if needed. So I love that I can toggle between cooling both or just the hotend heatsink. The only real downside of having this 2-in-1 is that you cannot turn off the cooling for the first couple of layers if thby DragoslaV - Delta Machines
Just simply decrease the angle of your Z tower from 90 to 89.5 and check again. If I'm correctly (it's been a while) the L position should be higher and your R position should be lower to your bed. (The F position should be the same) If your using Marlin you could follow this instructions/print: If your using Repetier (like me) you could just change the angles with EEPROM and do the paper testby DragoslaV - Delta Machines
The thing I don't like about this design is that the hotend is below the mounting points of your rods, which results in an +/-6cm of unused build height. I really like (and use) the following design, because it serves for cooling the hotend and the print: It is also placed above the mounting points so you have another 5cm build height *edit* I'm not sure the design works on a kossel mini,by DragoslaV - Delta Machines
Did you calibrate the angles of your towers? It might be that an opposite position of a tower is too low, which blocks a small amount of flow of filament and results in over-pressure on your nozzle and makes it leak when it stops the motion.by DragoslaV - Delta Machines
Grats on the printby DragoslaV - Delta Machines
I think he means Z axis rather then Z access. Did you try lowering the homing speed rate?by DragoslaV - Delta Machines
No that's not really hot. But are you really sure the tower angles are calibrated, It really looks like the left top of your print is lower to the build plate then the left bottom and is constantly doing this during the print. (maybe the opposite of your Z tower is to high) If you take the position from below, the "L", "R" and "F" ones, are those the same in build height as your towers? Alsoby DragoslaV - Delta Machines
Try lowering your retraction from the range 0.1 to 0.5mm (not the lifting, that's not an issue I believe), start low and find the sweet spot so your hotend won't leak and your filament won't cool down. All you want is to release a bit of pressure from your hotend but you don't want the warm filament to cool down. You might also want to play with lowering retraction speed, that could also be a faby DragoslaV - Delta Machines
Have you manually calibrated your machine before enabling auto-level? i.e. have you calibrated the angles of your towers?? If no; Disable auto-level and calibrate (with this) until you can print something decent. Then enable it back on. If yes; You might have some issues with the filament; i.e. you're printing to hot, bad adhesion on build plate or the first layer is to high.by DragoslaV - Delta Machines
What's your retraction settings? With a cooling fan, if you retract to much the filament cools down and blocks the nozzle for a short time.by DragoslaV - Delta Machines
Zulance, in addition to adavidm post; The FTDI chip on an arduino is a seperate IC for uploading a new sketch from your PC to the main chip (normally its the small chip close to your USB port). If that chip is dead your arduino would still work but you can't upload new codes through USB. If you have another arduino laying around you could try to upload new software through the ArduinoISP method.by DragoslaV - Delta Machines
okay a new fresh day and lesson learned; don't be lazy and use the Google search calculator (or if you do then transform radians into degrees). Now if you don't mind me, I'm going to stand for a bit in the shame corner with my calculator I still don't know why I thought the Z-axis was mirrored, maybe it was, but it was fixed after I swapped around the drivers with some backup ones this morning?by DragoslaV - Delta Machines
I just assembled my modified 3DR, downloaded the latest Marlin firmware and uploaded the modified delta configuration to my arduino mega. All motors are moving in the right direction (without having to invert them) and the end triggers are working perfect, so homing works. Moving the probe from the end triggers to Z0 also works. However it seems the probe positions are mirrored. I double checkeby DragoslaV - Delta Machines