Quoteb3nnb So I've been playing with that for hours and slowing things down has improved the extrusion a little bit. At this point it gets a couple layers into the raft and then jams. And I think I know what's going on. Every time it jams, I pull the tension bearing from the gear cover and the filament is always folded over itself on the side. The tension bolt is off to the side. So I think thereby unnokeng - Reprappers
Quoteb3nnb Ok, so im making progress! bigfilsing, im not sure the type, its an allen key that sits on and endstop in the print head. unnokeng I tried the Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING bit it caused g28 not to work on one of the towers, so i changed Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING and it worked, you guys rock!!!!!!!!!!!! ooops! That was what I meant to paste on there. Good thing you figured it out.by unnokeng - Reprappers
This usually happens when the voltage regulator on the arduino is broken. It usually gets burnt out when people try to plug/unplug stepper motors or endstops. You can repair it by replacing the regulator.by unnokeng - Reprappers
Have you measured the resistance of the bed? Most heaters made for 12V are 1ohms or less. If it is anything more than that, it would take longer to heat up. You could try putting fiberglass cloth underneath it to prevent heat from escaping.by unnokeng - Reprappers
Have you tried setting const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to "true"? You can also easily check if you have to reverse it by pushing on the switch, keeping it actuated on its way down to the plate.by unnokeng - Reprappers
Quoteilotam Hello everyone. I just finished building my Kossel with custom dimensions, using 2020 profile. While exploring for firmware, I came across of this forum and decided to use FolgerTech_kossel_firmware_V2 for 20 tooth (modified for 16 tooth pulley). After manual calibration for surface flatness and correct Z travel (I changed steps/mm because the calculated value using formula aboveby unnokeng - Delta Machines
QuotePlasticmonkey Still having challenges getting mine to just auto home. I have tried making every combination of flipping motor wires without luck, inverting in firmware, wired and rewired, and tripled checked voltage. I suspect the firmware and/or rails. So, sorry for the newbie questions (at the brink of my frustrations)... 1) How may I confirm how many teeth my motors are? 2) one of mby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotejuicev85 Does the included power supply have a voltage adjustment on it? The RAMPS board and MEGA should be fine up to 14V. If you could bump up the voltage it would help with the higher resistance... It does have voltage adjustment, but it's still nothing comparable to other heatbeds. Say at 12volts with 2.2ohms, you're getting 65 watts of power. Bumping the voltage to 14 will only get yby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotejuicev85 Just ordered one of these a couple days ago, I am really excited to catch up to all you guys! I noticed that some people were complaining about the heated bed not heating up fast or high enough... could this be partially caused because there is no insulation on the back? When I get my kit in I am planning on gluing a piece of 3mm cork rubber gasket material to the back. This is aby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quoteohecht Thanks again Unnokeng. I'd love to know more about your geared extruder in terms of where you got it (or the files to print it) and what other changes you made to make it work...I was looking at those when I was struggling with the black PLA before giving up for a while and printing in white again. My extruder will skip if I look at it funny, so anything that will give me a more relby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quoteohecht Thanks Unnokeng. I gave up on the auto-level function for a while since I don't seem to need it now that I got my "flatness" problem physically calibrated. I went through the routine of moving the endstops ever so slightly and adjusting the Smooth Rod Offset (ended up at what seems like a huge number...180mm), but the end result is that I can print perfectly flat across the build plby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quoteohecht OK, I spent the day adjusting the end stops and changing the Smooth Rod Offset to get the printer to print on a flat plane even with out autoleveling...so far so good on my first large test print, but the nozzle is staying at the same height all the way across the print. I ended up with these offsets at 180mm, which seems huge, but that's the number that allowed me to get the print hby unnokeng - Delta Machines
QuotePlasticmonkey I am patiently waiting for my Kossel to ship. May I ask everyone how long was build time (from start to actual printing)? Sounds like everyone needs to spend a decent amount of time working through the unique 'kinks'. If you're pretty handy with allen wrenches and a soldering iron, I'd say you'll be able to build it within 5-7 hours. Just make sure you cut the carbon fiber rby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quoteiceman62 Hello everyone, I got my Folger Teck Kossel kit and put it togetther, Flashed the FW and Installed Repetier Host everything seems to be working right I can manually move the Print Head/ Extruder around and when I hit home it goes up hits the endstops and parks and waits for the next comand. The Filament feeds the Extruder heats up and filament extrudes. But if I load a file likeby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotednguyenai598 I like it! Very nice work. Yes, the kit is definitely not for everyone. It's a lot more fun ppl who have extra time and like to tinker. I make a few mods myself, not as extensive, but will post when I tighty up the wires. Your print looks awesome, PLA? Acrylic bed, did you cut that by hand or CNC it? Like that idea and will definitely try it on mine. Also, does your threby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Hello everyone! I've finally put my kit back together with all the final modifications I wanted to do for it. I have cut 5mm thick acrylic to fit on the top and right underneath the heatbed. They do make the whole construction more rigid. You can see that I reprinted the frames, because they cracked. Some of you may know that I didn't use the original heatbed. I have a silicon heatbed that hby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotebjoernkarmann Thanks!, maybe i will just go for the 20 or 16 let me know how it goes with your 16-tooth and if you changed the steps pr mm perhaps. And for rtideas, i have the same problem with the acrylic (i also had a "home button holder" cracking, and had to mount the power supply sideways. so you defiantly have de be carefull with the screws. even my bed holder did't fit . Yes, I did hby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quoteparco Quotebjoernkarmann Hello Reprappers I got my FolgerTech Kossel 2020 a week ago, and the build went good. After some research i found the firmware, for Repetier Host (windows) 0.91. My problem is that a the firmware seems "right", but the distance it travels when using manuel control is, way bigger in the Repetier program, whene going home, it looks more like a crash! I run with 36by unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotertideas Trying to use what came with the kit. Was missing the 30mm tensioner bolts listed in the Build Manual. After searching my local hardware store (limited metric), Lowe's (too short), my favorite hobby shop, another hardware store recommended by the hobby shop (same selection as Lowe's), I found the bolts at another hobby shop across town. They manual should recommend 35mm or longer. Aby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotednguyenai598 The Slic3r software might be the culprit. Double check your setting. It could be the fill-in or something straight like that. I'm using the 36-tooth pulleys and it's relatively smooth. My only problem is the webbing, probably too high of the temperature on the PLA causing drips, running at 220C which is normally used for ABS. Still a lot of fine tuning left. I'm also addedby unnokeng - Delta Machines
QuoteLord Sidius What firmware and software is everyone using? I installed repetier host, does anyone have any good settings for it? I have a modified Blomker Marlin. The G29 is different for it because it uses an allen wrench to probe the bed. So if you are using the supplied servo and switch combo, I cannot help you with that. I am now running mine with FSR pads mounted to the hotend carrieby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotertideas Anyone figure out what the lock washers are used for? What is the consensus on the rod length to cover the full heated bed? What's the set up for the top belt pulleys? The photo shows two flanged bearing and two washers. The text states two flanged bearings and one normal bearing between them. Seems to have a bit of slop. Are you using the supplied gear for the belt motors? I sawby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotednguyenai598 Quoteparco Quotednguyenai598 Great pictures! How is it working? Any problem with the calibration? Are you printing ABS or PLA? How did you mount the extruder motor? I found that the screws from the motor were too short and did a modification. Not so good at the moment: There were some issues with the provided firmware causing the autolevel sequence to drive the hot end inby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quoterich1812 I don't really know what the cause of the problem is. My printer was working fine since I built it until now. I was going to print a thin disk. Somehow, when the first layer was printed, it was in the correct location on the glass, but once it gets to the second layer, the X shifted. (See attached shifted.jpg.) I am not sure what causes it, but I think it has something to do with thby unnokeng - Reprappers
Is this what you were searching for?by unnokeng - Reprappers
Quoteparco Quotednguyenai598 That looks much better, I assume that it doesn't matter which way the switch is oriented since the head would be homed before the servo turns it 180. The big question now is, where does the servo wires to and how do you setup the software to run and adjust the level settings? I'm on hold right now waiting for some parts to come in... and thinking of rewiring everythby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quoteparco Two issues while completing the build: Where do I plug the fan, servo, and auto bedleveling switch into? Where can I download the firmware package called: FolgerTech 2020 like stated in the Configuration Manual? The fan can be wired to pin D9 or directly to the power supply if you want it on all the time. I downloaded this firmware: and modified it to the proper settings.by unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotednguyenai598 Quoteparco Having another minor issue: the instructions state to mount the heatbed directly to the acrylic plates using M3 bolts and locknuts, but the heatbead hits the nuts used to mount the arduino. Maybe some spacers would do the trick, but just wanted to check if I'm doing something wrong here. I didn't mount the arduino board to the acrylic. It's just sitting on the bottby unnokeng - Delta Machines
Quotednguyenai598 Quoteunnokeng Quotertideas Quoteunnokeng Before I go, I saw a mistake on the instructions manual for the build. I had originally built my effector rods longer, but decided to redo it and follow the instructions. Well, it was wrong! It tells you that the rods should be at 224mm. With this whole kit scaled up, it will only give you an effective build diameter of 150mm. I alrby unnokeng - Delta Machines
QuoteUnbre I didn't find any endstop settings in pronterface, but I tryed to put the pins in the "+" side and pronterface does not respond on X-Home's button pressing, so I think to have pronterface X setup as min. Now you got me stumped. Have you tried using repetier to see if it works any better for you?by unnokeng - Reprappers