Quoteiceman62 Quotekylaris I had the servo working on the marlin FW, but removed the servo all together. The servo has 3xmm 3xmm X Y offset( I forgot the actual measurement ). On my 190mm building area , it probes about 130mm of it. Anyone printing at descent speed without the extruder skipping/slipping? like >35mm/s? Tried increasing temp, lubing the filament with canola oil, increasing theby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteunnokeng Hello everyone! I've finally put my kit back together with all the final modifications I wanted to do for it. I have cut 5mm thick acrylic to fit on the top and right underneath the heatbed. They do make the whole construction more rigid. You can see that I reprinted the frames, because they cracked. Some of you may know that I didn't use the original heatbed. I have a siliconby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quotertideas Quotednguyenai598 Endstop in reverse? You are off by one at the header; there are six inputs into that header, every other three are minimum endstops and every other three are maximum endstops, you want the maximum endstops. There should be a pic in the doc. It was these settings I had to set to 1 and now my endstops work properly: #define INVERT_X_DIR 1 #define INVERT_Y_DIR 1 #deby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quotertideas Quotedougal1957 You do have the 3 jumper fitted underneath all the Stepper driver modules don't you? Yes. All jumpers in place and configuration set to 44.44 mm/step. Are you allowed to use floating point values? Another issue is my top endstop switches work in reverse. They stop the slide from moving down, not up. The Build Manual suggested soldering connectors for the thermistorsby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quotebjoernkarmann Thanks!, maybe i will just go for the 20 or 16 let me know how it goes with your 16-tooth and if you changed the steps pr mm perhaps. And for rtideas, i have the same problem with the acrylic (i also had a "home button holder" cracking, and had to mount the power supply sideways. so you defiantly have de be carefull with the screws. even my bed holder did't fit . I think thiby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quotertideas Closer. At least it's moving. Installed 0.91 Repetier firmware. I matched all the settings to the configuration file in the FolgerTech Google Drive except for rod length and my added LCD screen. Googe Drive--FolgerTech Kossel 2020 software package.zip. The printer moves, but 0.1 mm steps are giant at 6 mm. 1mm are 60 mm. 10 mm are 600 -- I don't dare. Using the 36 tooth pulleys. Aby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
New idea, remounting the Arduino on the top side using the acrylic pieces that were originally for the bed and filament spool arm. So I discovered a couple of things. As the bed heats up, it warps and the acrylic support won't hold it flat, and the filament spool arm won't allow the spool to turn smoothly, sometimes getting caught. I'm rebuilding the bed and the arm, and re-purposing the otherby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quotertideas The acrylic parts are definitely beta. One of the hot bed mounting pieces was missing a hole completely. Any piece that needed to be attached to the frame with t-nuts and the suggested M3x8 screwed barely got a thread to catch. I Dremeled them out so they could get a better bite. First I used a ball shaped reaming tool. Then a flat toothed disc to allow the screw to inset a millimeby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quotertideas And once again, coming up short with this kit. The leads for the hot end are too short. Grrrrrr. What gauge wire do I need to add extensions to the hot end heater wires? Needs about a 25-30cm more of wire. Already had to make extended leads for the fan. If you don't mount the Arduino on acrylic bed support and leave it free-floating, it should just be long enough. I wouldn't blby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco Is anyone else experience this crazy wiggle: (I do realize it is printing higher than it should) I'm trying to see what might be the cause, everything is tight and well built. The linear rails are definitely not "butter" smooth, and the other culprit may be the 36 tooth pulleys. The Slic3r software might be the culprit. Double check your setting. It could be the fill-in or somethiby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
I use 250mm and it seems to work well. The back corners near the z motor are where that distances from the center is a little curtailed. I modified the Blomker's Marlin configuration.h file (you can see that in the earlier post). This is pretty much a DIY kit. Anyone buying it and expect it to be easy is dreaming. The hardest part is configuring and calibrating the bed. Having the right conby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteunnokeng Quotednguyenai598 Quoteparco Quotednguyenai598 Great pictures! How is it working? Any problem with the calibration? Are you printing ABS or PLA? How did you mount the extruder motor? I found that the screws from the motor were too short and did a modification. Not so good at the moment: There were some issues with the provided firmware causing the autolevel sequence to driveby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
QuotePedroB Hi all, I have sucessfully (so far) built a Prusa i3 from scratch. About 4 months of picking away at it. Printed my first parts this past weekend. 2 basic questions: it seem that it takes a very long for the bed to heat up. over 25min to get up to 120 deg C. I have 16awg wires going to the bed. Thermister poking up through the little hole. What should I be looking for to troubleshootby dnguyenai598 - Reprappers
Quoteparco Quotednguyenai598 Great pictures! How is it working? Any problem with the calibration? Are you printing ABS or PLA? How did you mount the extruder motor? I found that the screws from the motor were too short and did a modification. Not so good at the moment: There were some issues with the provided firmware causing the autolevel sequence to drive the hot end into the bed. My endby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco Quotednguyenai598 That looks much better, I assume that it doesn't matter which way the switch is oriented since the head would be homed before the servo turns it 180. The big question now is, where does the servo wires to and how do you setup the software to run and adjust the level settings? I'm on hold right now waiting for some parts to come in... and thinking of rewiring everythby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco Quotednguyenai598 Quoteparco dnguyenai598, I have no idea if this is correct but seems like it would work. You should have received an acrylic piece for mounting the switch to the servo. Thanks, a picture is worth a 1000 words. Mounting Servo Just as I posted, they actually uploaded a new version of the manual with their technique, which is much better. I've implemented it and theby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco dnguyenai598, I have no idea if this is correct but seems like it would work. You should have received an acrylic piece for mounting the switch to the servo. Thanks, a picture is worth a 1000 words.by dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco Two issues while completing the build: Where do I plug the fan, servo, and auto bedleveling switch into? Where can I download the firmware package called: FolgerTech 2020 like stated in the Configuration Manual? Fan can be directly wired to the power supply, though, I didn't like the fan noise being on all the time. The RAMP board didn't have the jumper as depicted in enclosed picturby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
If you use D9 for the fan, see my earlier note on this same thread. Using the files at Blomker, you actually have to know what you are doing, it's not plug and play. You have to make sure the arm's length, end switches (TRUE or FALSE), stepper motor speed, etc are properly entered. Otherwise, this could take you hours to configure and tweak. Also the files for Repetier and Marlin are differenby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco Having another minor issue: the instructions state to mount the heatbed directly to the acrylic plates using M3 bolts and locknuts, but the heatbead hits the nuts used to mount the arduino. Maybe some spacers would do the trick, but just wanted to check if I'm doing something wrong here. I didn't mount the arduino board to the acrylic. It's just sitting on the bottom. However, I waby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteunnokeng Quotertideas Quoteunnokeng Before I go, I saw a mistake on the instructions manual for the build. I had originally built my effector rods longer, but decided to redo it and follow the instructions. Well, it was wrong! It tells you that the rods should be at 224mm. With this whole kit scaled up, it will only give you an effective build diameter of 150mm. I already ordered someby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteunnokeng Quotednguyenai598 Quoteunnokeng Quotednguyenai598 What was your temp for ABS and speed setting? For PLA? I had mine set for PLA=210 and ABS 235-240 at 60mm print speed. Once I go any faster, it starts slipping, that's why I printed out a geared extruder. Maybe that's where I went wrong. PLA temp was at 190C recommended. ABS was 230C. Where did you get your speed setting. I'mby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteunnokeng Quotednguyenai598 What was your temp for ABS and speed setting? For PLA? I had mine set for PLA=210 and ABS 235-240 at 60mm print speed. Once I go any faster, it starts slipping, that's why I printed out a geared extruder. Maybe that's where I went wrong. PLA temp was at 190C recommended. ABS was 230C. Where did you get your speed setting. I'm using DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteunnokeng Hello everyone! Reporting back with some updates to my printer. I was able to print both ABS and PLA with the kit. I started printing out some upgrades to it. The gold arePLA and the red parts are ABS. Since all I got for a RAMPS mount was a bent acrylic, I printed out an enclosure for it that I will later mount on the side. For those wondering how the effector is built, you canby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco That makes sense, but i dont think it's coincidence that the hot end top almost fits into the larger diameter, and watching other videos like this one show just that: http://youtu.be/JrhpLgnzkdw?t=4m51s Wished I found this video on the 23rd when I got my kit, which didn't come with a manual. Took me a long time to figure things out and what each part is. If you figure how to mount tby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco dnguyenai598, Can you take a close up picture of the top of it? I'm wondering if the larger diameter side has any purpose, if facing down, it could alleviate heat transfer to the effector from the hotend. If up, it gives more room around the brass plug. IDK! Yes, it has a purpose. From what I recalled, the wider open is facing up, that way the brass plug screws right in for a tightby dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Quoteparco dnguyenai598, Can you take a close up picture of the top of it? I'm wondering if the larger diameter side has any purpose, if facing down, it could alleviate heat transfer to the effector from the hotend. If up, it gives more room around the brass plug. IDK! Sorry, I'm not at home to do that. Otherwise, I would. I very few pictures on my phone and that's was the best one.by dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
The plate with the fan support, snaps into the hotend's top (the grove should match up). And then the "effector upper plate" sits on top of this without any gap. I put four bolts to hold the two plates together.by dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
As I recalled, the shiny side is up.by dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines
Here are some cons which could be improved: 1. The AC cord is very cheap. No power switch or IEC receptacle. I clipped the end off and tried to crimp forks on them (Chinese color code, what is brown, rhetorical), but the gauge is like 22awg, too thin for crimping. 2. Heated bed is 12vdc, which takes forever to heat up to 110C for ABS. 24vdc may be better, but would required two DC voltages,by dnguyenai598 - Delta Machines