Mautner. Where are you located? I've got a Duet 0.8.5 going spare in the UK after my delta was upgraded to the DuetWifi. PM me if you're interested.by gowen - Duet
It's belt and braces. I've had a few instances where there have been odd ground loops, so now I prefer to connect cables in pairs. I haven't had a look at the PCB design to check if the copper has a direct connection between the two pins.by gowen - Controllers
Swapping on to the AD12 pin and setting as a type 1 has got it working and solved the temperature drop-out issue. I've run it through autocalibration multiple times now with success. Now I just need to work out why I can't get the first layer to stick, but that's nothing to do with the Duet. For anyone with the same setup, here is the revised Wiring diagram. R1 = 47k ohm and R2 = 16k ohm Tby gowen - Controllers
Quotedc42I think the problem is that the endstop inputs each drive an LED and your voltage divider has too high a resistance to pull the voltage on the endstop input down far enough. That is a definite possibility. That LED is much dimmer than the X,Y,Z end stops. QuoteMy advice is to connect the output from the voltage divider to the analog Z probe input instead (pin AD12 on the dedicated Zby gowen - Controllers
I have a PNP inductive sensor that was working fine on my previous RAMPS 1.4. I've created a new voltage divider which is outputting 2.95V when triggered and connected it to the Duet 0.85 as shown on the diagram below. Whether it is triggered or not, the Z-Probe reading on the web interface just sits at 1000. The relevant lines from my config.g file are ; Z probe and compensation definitionby gowen - Controllers
Looking at the Schematic (https://github.com/T3P3/Duet/blob/master/Duet0.8.5/Duet0.8.5_Schematic.pdf) - page 4 the centre pin is +3.3V.by gowen - Controllers
Snap! I had the same issue having downloaded the latest T3P3 firmware. With the dc42-M firmware the motors worked first time. The only surprise was that the X and Y axes were 120 degrees out from where they were with my previous RAMPS controller, which turned out to be that I had the motors connected X,Y,Z,E on the DUET instead of Z,Y,X,E.by gowen - Controllers
I've been having similar issues trying to flash my Duet on Windows 7. Having downloaded Arduino version 1.6.6 and added SAM support, I couldn't find bossac.exe in the path C:\Users\AppData\Roaming\Arduino15\packages\arduino\tools\bossac\1.6.1-arduino\bossac.exe So I downloaded BOSSA from ShumaTech, but when run I got the message "No device found on COM18" I ran the following line with the dby gowen - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm using Rich Cattell's Testing Build (https://github.com/RichCattell/Marlin). It's the one Andy recommends and has all the latest auto-calibration and bed levelling code.by gowen - Delta Machines
I've just finished rebuilding by effector with an inductive Z-probe and part cooling fan. I've worked out that the Z-offset between the probe triggering and then the nozzle just catching the paper is 0.14mm. Do I enter this in marlin's configuration.h as positive or negative? Is this value only used during auto-calibration?by gowen - Delta Machines
In retrospect, looking on eBay for a custom laser cutting service should have been obvious . Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.by gowen - Delta Machines
Thanks for all your input guys. It looks like a silicone mat heater is the way to go. Just a thought. Does anyone know of a source of flat circular steel plate? On the 3D Today podcast they use a heated steel bed with removable glass on top. The steel provides enough mass to trigger the inductive leveling probe at its full 4mm range. so above the glass.by gowen - Delta Machines
With the better multimeter the current heater has a resistance of 2.5 Ohm which equates to 57.6 Watts or 1.5 kW/m². Considering the Think3dprint3d.com kapton heater can do 6 kW/m², I suspect the heating element is the problem. Can anyone recommend a source for a higher power rated 220mm bed?by gowen - Delta Machines
Hi dejay & dc42. Thanks for your thoughts. QuoteDejayIf you want to measure low resistance more precisely you could temporary put a 1 ohm resistor in series to the bed and measure the voltage instead. You'd have to look up the formula though. Or ask the seller about the precise resistance. I've got a better multimeter at home. I plan bring it in tomorrow to get a more accurate value forby gowen - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Quotegowen Quotedc42 gowen, how large is the print bed, and what bed heater are you using? What voltage are you getting on the bed terminals when the bed heater is on? The bed is about 200mm, aluminium with a built-in heater. I haven't checked the voltage across the terminals. I'll do that on Monday. I'm trying to get all the parts ready to swap the ramps over to a Duet. Also meby gowen - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 gowen, how large is the print bed, and what bed heater are you using? What voltage are you getting on the bed terminals when the bed heater is on? The bed is about 200mm, aluminium with a built-in heater. I haven't checked the voltage across the terminals. I'll do that on Monday. I'm trying to get all the parts ready to swap the ramps over to a Duet.by gowen - Delta Machines
QuoteMatt,Wheatley What size PSU are you using? It's an X-Box One power supply that Andy supplied with my kit. The label quotes 12VDC @ 17.9A which by my maths is 215 W.by gowen - Delta Machines
Today I tried to print with ABS on my Cherry Pi IIIs, but the bed temperature wouldn't go above 75°C. Here is a capture of the temperature graph. The dip at about 18 minutes is where I reconfigured marlin to run the bed heater bang-bang, but it didn't help. I'm not sure about the dip at 30 minutes. I was moving the head around using the manual controls about then, so it is possible that the pby gowen - Delta Machines
Quotebower-andy Gary, Thanks, I don't seem to have that coil of wire. One more question - when fitting the toothed pulleys onto the motors do the screws go nearest the motor body or furthest away. I see that the Mini Kossel instructions from Think3DPrint3D show them furthest away. Best regards Andy Bower A picture is worth a thousand words. BTW, the grub screws go down a long way.by gowen - Delta Machines
Hi Andy(, In my kit, Andy(C) supplied a small coil of wire. One thing I found was to keep the loop as short as possible. The long loops shown on Page 17 got bent back and forth and soon broke. The attached photo shows my current connection which has had no problems. Hope this helps. Gary. Quotebower-andy Hi Andy, On p17 (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,361141,page=17) gowen showsby gowen - Delta Machines
Some of the Cherry Pi parts on Thingiverse have a descriptive filename. E.g Bottom_Stepper_Base_V3_x_3__33_0.3_2P_3T_3B_PLA I assume this breaks down as: V3 = Version x3 = quantity 33 = ??????? 0.3 = layer height, 2P = 2 perimeters 3T = 3 top layers 3B = 3 bottom layers PLA = material As far as I can see only the PLA parts are named like this. What settings would you recommend for ABS parts?by gowen - Delta Machines
I'm recalibrating my CPIIIs again as parts were printing too small. I've noticed that when I manually step the Z axis by 0.01mm, I have to press the button 12 or 14 times before the carriages move up and when they do they jump up the accumulated amount in one go. Then I have go down a similar amount before they move again. I've also noticed when calibrating, that having got the paper lightly gby gowen - Delta Machines
Is it the belts slipping on the pulleys or the pulleys slipping on the motor shafts?by gowen - Delta Machines
Today I tried something more complex: the UltimakerRobot_support.stl I stopped the first attempt (on the left) when the extruder stopped feeding. The print had got to the point where the filament is retracted before the head moves. It just wasn't being extruded again afterwards. I tightened up the filament clamps bolts on the extruder as tight as they would go and tried again (middle). (Iby gowen - Delta Machines
If you have a look at page 203 of the Mini-Kossel Assembly Guide. There are some useful pictures showing what the dimensions mean.by gowen - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart Well done Gary. From the pictures it looks like your nozzle is a little high. Try dropping it 0.1mm. Right. I'll try that tomorrow. What would you recommend for the first layer height and feed, and the subsequent layer height and feed?by gowen - Delta Machines
First Print Time So the day has come. I got the Kapton Tape stuck to the base plate, warmed it up, did a sliding paper test, sliced a calibration angle piece from Thingiverse and started printing. Then I stopped printing when the first layer wouldn't stick. So I added a brim, which also wouldn't stick. Then I changed the first layer thickness which made it worse. So I reverted backby gowen - Delta Machines
QuoteDavid JUpdate: That worked nicely - it's nice to start from a point where the machinery isn't trying to self-destruct... I know what you mean. I have some deep gouges in my aluminium bed where the nozzle hit the bed and then ploughed sideways. I had to use some emery cloth to get the burrs off. It's a wonder the nozzle still works; I was half expecting it to be clogged with aluminium.by gowen - Delta Machines
Reduce your H value down to 240mm with M666 H240.0 and then increase it from there. Mine ended up at just under 247mm.by gowen - Delta Machines
I've been quiet for a while, but now I'm almost ready to print. I've spent about 10 lunchtimes trying to get my Pi to auto calibrate using various builds of RC's Marlin without much success. Two days ago I decided to give up and try a manual calibration using Andy's instructions. It took about 2 hours to get the bed calibrated and the extruder another 20 minutes. It was quite exciting to finaby gowen - Delta Machines