QuoteGecko23 Maybe try this fork of Marlin 1.1.9: - you may need to tweak the particular delta parms in configuration.h, but you have to calibrate after you get it loaded anyways. It will compile with this Arduino version: My guess is that the original firmware is a pre-1.1.x release Marlin, and used an old, deprecated version of Arduino to compile and that's where most of your problem is coby Eddy - Delta Machines
Hi, So I decided to blow some dust off of my Kossel Mini that i purchased from Think3DPrint3D in the UK about 5 years ago. I am seeing all kinds of problems when trying to load firmware from Arduino over to the printer's Mega 2560. I have tried both going all new on both Arduino and marlin firmware, and also finding the firmware that came with the printer (found it in an e-mail from 2015..) paby Eddy - Delta Machines
I have just changed my z_min mechanical switch to a proximity sensor, so I won't be needing probe deployment or retraction anymore. Can someone point me to how this is done in Marlin? Thanksby Eddy - Delta Machines
I appreciate your thorough answers, dc42, it really helps me understand my problems myself. So to conclude on the matter I do have a strong enough motor, but before reaching its optimal current ratings I've already maxed out the drivers current ratings. To tackle this the best thing to do is get a driver that handles more current, so my motor can perform its best...? My second option is to finby Eddy - Delta Machines
Very well explained, thank you! Here are my extruder motor specs, given they haven't changed the motor since I bought my printer last year: I see it's listed as 40mm long now, so it might be that I have an even stronger one at 58mm? Frame size 42 x 42mm - Nema17 1.8 degree step angle Length 40mm Holding torque 45Ncm (4.5kgcm, 64 oz-in) Voltage 2.2v Current/Phase 2.00A Resistance/Phase 1.1ohm Inby Eddy - Delta Machines
Okey, I hope I didn't break anything will fiddling around, then, since I was turning 1/4 turn at a time... Still, the problem persists. I will tune the driver properly to double check I'm not missing a "point" where the motor is both strong enough while not getting too hot. Koenig: is my 58mm Nema17 a "long" Nema17? I have an additional question; How can one get too much torque? I mean, if thby Eddy - Delta Machines
Thanks dc42. My extruder motor is also the one from t3dp3d, meaning I already have a long nema17? Is this the torquiest nema17 out there? I really hated that geared extruder and I don't want to go back. Changing filament and retracting full "bowden tube lengths" after skippings/grindings was a pain. Also the 2-screw pressure adjuster was simply a shot in the dark to try and adjust. I really wanby Eddy - Delta Machines
I changed my extruder from the printed gear type from Think3Dprint3D to a direct drive all aluminium one. I changed the "DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT" to {80, 80, 80, 87} for it to extrude the same amount of filament as before, and then my problems started. The extruder motor starts clicking under almost no load at all. just extruding at 200mm/min in open air is too tough. I read several placeby Eddy - Delta Machines
And that did the trick, hooray!! thank you!by Eddy - Delta Machines
It was a polarity issue I had it wired correctly at the RAMPS board, but wrong in the fan-to-wiring loom connection. But it still doesn't run when I print, so what have I done wrong in my cooling set-up? It's set to Always on...? Or do I have to enable D9 in some way in Marlin? Thanks guysby Eddy - Delta Machines
That's where I've been fiddling around with different settings to no avail... Is there anything there that will make the print fan start? The hot end fan is always on like it's always been... (will test M106 S255 in a few days, I'm having the hot end out for a small service and had to change thermistor and solder a little on Z-probe end stop)by Eddy - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteEddy So the question is: do I have to do anything to make it work? I was told to just "keep the slic3r settings to default" and I should be fine, but honestly I don't think anything in slic3r will help me get that fan going... Or? Try sending M106 S255 to test the print cooling fan. Good idea, thanks!by Eddy - Delta Machines
I did connect it the way it said on think3dprint3d.com, but maybe I should try to switch it again just to see. No more obvious things besides that?by Eddy - Delta Machines
I got one nasty clog in my J-head hot end that made me decide to upgrade. The V6 hot end fan is connected like the fan on the J-head, and thus runs like it should (all the time). This fan blows directly onto the hot end, and I now also have a fan directed straight onto the print. The "new" (print) fan is connected to d9 on the RAMPS board, but it hasn't run once since I hooked it all up. So theby Eddy - Delta Machines
New discovery; it is only the probing that has issues. I tried fooling around with x, y and y axes manually in pronterface and they all worked the way they should. Also; I am now printing a nice print without autolevelling. What sort of stupid thing have I done while in Marlin??by Eddy - Delta Machines
Video of strange behaving printerby Eddy - Delta Machines
My Mini Kossel was working just fine. Today, I decided to change the Z-probes' distance to nozzle by a 10th of a mm, so went straight ahead and did that before I connected to the printer. It failed to upload (I only changed a number from 5 to six, did not swap a comma with a dot or vice versa). I did a general troubleshooting, which told me the right Arduino board must be chosen. Hmmm, haven't hby Eddy - Delta Machines
Drilled again with 2mm bit. Didn't help. Should I keep drilling till I actually start drilling on the brass? Thanks!by Eddy - Delta Machines
Found my culprit while trying to extrude some plastic by manually turning the big extruder gear (only tried feeding through the remainder of the path before). The photo is taken after manually extruding a few cm's of plastic, letting the hot-end cool, and then pull the hot end STRAIGHT down after unscrewing it. Clearly there's something there causing a kink and a bend, furthermore a much biggeby Eddy - Delta Machines
I will now, have been away for a few days. thanksby Eddy - Delta Machines
Another hot tip, thank you! Come to think of it, I have had this issue with the last 3 types of filament I've tried, and they're all from different suppliers. Also, when printing previously successful prints with previously trouble free filaments, I'm still having these issues. I'm kinda leaning towards something mechanical, and that's what I'm hoping too. Maybe there's something wrong with my hby Eddy - Delta Machines
Good idea. I did manage to get one trouble free layer once when I set first layer down to 40%speed instead of 50%. I really want to be able to go down on temperature too, cause it's oozing like mad when doing anything else than perimeters.by Eddy - Delta Machines
But you have a point; why does it ALWAYS fail while filling? it's either during solid fills or infill, as far as I've seen. I just had a print going superb, which was very thin walled so it almost didn't have any infill. It printed fine for two hours, then failed at ONE layer, kept going strong, and then failed when it started filling on top..by Eddy - Delta Machines
Thank you dc42. It's all checked and rechecked.. I forgot to mention that when I occasionally get one one nice first layer, the next few layers aren't much better...by Eddy - Delta Machines
I try and try to fine tune the tension (pressure) on my extruder, but it ALWAYS starts grinding the filament sometime during first layer (filling) I have a nice and smooth filament path, and I can safely print into open air at 700mm/s, which seems at least as fast as any stage during printing. It seems as soon as I've adjusted the pressure on the filament to the point where it doesn't slip, itby Eddy - Delta Machines