Quotej.fabianski Ok, if we are on this, can someone just fast take a look on links which I have placed above about the modification especially about the link1 (7-8 posts above) method? And confirm it's ok. For me look very similar to post nr 1 but it's much easier and secured with own power regulator. And it's very cheap and fast modification. After this modification should like V2 version, whatby thevisad - RAMPS Electronics
Quoterealthor Yeah, I went through that but it didn't click somehow. Why would people talk about v2 if it doesn't exist in a form that is easy buy-able? Also english is not my native language Good question, there might be a few floating around, but they are most likely one offs someone made like I am refering to here. There are no stores that retail the board. You can buy a run, 3 in the smallby thevisad - RAMPS Electronics
Quoterealthor Sorry if this is a bit unrelated... I am thinking of ordering a ramps-fd/due combo from aliexpress. How can I tell if it is RAMPS-FDv2? Posted 4 posts above your question is my response,which I will repost here. Yup, the easiest way to recognize this is can you buy it? If so then it is a RampsFD V1 and not a V2. The V2 is not for sale, it's board only and would need to be assemby thevisad - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDelta Sorry .. I ask what is the difference between a RampsFD V1 by a RampsFD V2 ? As, I can recognize it ? Yup, the easiest way to recognize this is can you buy it? If so then it is a RampsFD V1 and not a V2. The V2 is not for sale, it's board only and would need to be assembled by you after you buy all the raw parts.by thevisad - RAMPS Electronics
Quotellamatrails Quotepaul_delta Quotellamatrails These slides don't need any lube at all. Rick What do you think - will PETG work for these sliders as well as nylon? Thanks. Probably not, no Slippery properties compared to others. See the page and click on "About Plastics" . Rick How does this compare to Delrin/Acetal for longevity?by thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotegaddcasey1 Anyone have plans for the psu mount? I broke mine and need new ones. I can laser cut new ones for you if needed, I have some 6MM clear acrylic on hand right now or you can peruse the thingiverse site to see if they have one that will work for you.by thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I don't think you will be disappointed with a kit from T3P3. Regarding the PanelDue, I would love to sell you one, however if you are happy to control the printer using the web interface from a PC, laptop, tablet or smartphone then you don't need it. The vast majority of people with Duet-controlled printers don't have a PanelDue. It's different with RAMPS electronics, because then you dby thevisad - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand Hello everyone! I'm new to the 3D printing universe and have purchased a Folgertech Kossel 2020 that I'm trying to fire up.The build went relatively smoothly (although they sent me the wrong heat bed and it's a good thing I have access to a machine shop to fix some parts) but my problem seems to be that the end stops just aren't doing anything. I try to "home" the machine and the thrby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotehercek Quotethevisad There is a conversation in the seemecnc forums regarding that, showing that the n52 (the standard magnet) could lift more then the n42, I do not recall anything about a particular mm/s though. Last I read, the n42 couldn't handle speeding up any faster, but when he switched out to the n52 he wasn't able to cause them to fail. OK, that would mean that their steppers startby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotehercek Quotethevisad It can, you need to get the heavier duty magnets, most of the ones that are sold are the lighter versions. I think it's the N52 that support the high accelerations. Do you have some number how many mm/s² can N52 magnets do? There is a conversation in the seemecnc forums regarding that, showing that the n52 (the standard magnet) could lift more then the n42, I do not recby thevisad - Delta Machines
That part does not exist in the build instructions at any point other then in that picture. I assume that it is for a rod that is threaded with threaded bearings to allow you to increase/decrease the threaded rod length without removing it. The device is called a turnbuckle, you can get them at most hardware stores. IE its for the rod bearings on the right, not the one with the left, which hasby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotehercek I would say it is only about one thing: Do you want to print quickly or not? And my suspicion is that it needs to be delta with ball angle joints and not magnetic joints. I do not know whether magnetic joints can handle high accelerations. People did not respond to my questions about this. It can, you need to get the heavier duty magnets, most of the ones that are sold are the lighteby thevisad - Delta Machines
QuoteMightyMouth Hey all, I have decided to delve into the world of 3D printing. I was previously waiting for the Wally from Nicolas Seward and was signed up for the beta but that never seemed to materialise. After having had a good look around I feel a Large Delta printer fits the bill for me, I think I understand the pros and cons and don't mind a but of tinkering if I get the results I want.by thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Quotethevisad My issue is when you tell others to try a mechanically inaccurate process to create mechanical accuracy. So to quote your own comment, you didn't listen very carefully, this tool sold for 4.49 + tax is designed for the exact purpose of what you are "trying" to do and is the proper tool to use in replacement of paper. Again, bed leveling is a MUTE point on a printeby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta I know, you are cool But the problem is that you don't listen me carefully. Again, I'm talking about round (non-working) end of drill bit as a hard, cylindrical object where diameter doesn't play any role. It's just a round object that we can roll under tip to make sure that the tip is equidistant from the bed near screws and in the center. I don't care that it's 2.98mm and notby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 The problem I have found with the paper test is that the result you get depends on the friction of the bed surface. Higher friction surface (e.g. PVA glue) -> greater height at which the nozzle grips the paper as hard as you are looking for. But I still use the paper test for checking the Z=0 height because it's quicker than using feeler gauges. It should always be said to clean offby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Please let me remind that I'm talking about bed leveling - the way to get the tip equidistant from the bed on at least 4 points. Of course paper test is better (faster) way to get Z0 when everything is flat. As I posted a few posts ago. The bed should be made as mechanically flat and level to the object itself. Using the metal corners the mechanical flatness/leveling will be asby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Just try, OK? You will see the difference in gradations/feeling. PS: of course the drill bit must be small enough - 1.5mm-3mm max. With 10mm drill bit there is a chance to get non-symmetrical (oval) end. Lol, I do not need to "try and see" I know from a lifetime of working with mechanical objects, measurement tools, manufacturing processes and designing my own objects based upoby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Quotethevisad Paper has long been the defacto tool in almost all industries for measuring the gap between two objects. As a mechanic who worked with points and condenser systems, I used a dollar bill as the proper gauge distance to create the right air gap for optimum power. Standard 80 lb paper is .0055 thick, out of the package, every package. So when paper is used and the nozzlby thevisad - Delta Machines
QuoteKoenig Quotepaul_delta Tip: forget about paper test - it is not accurate enough! Use drill bit - roll it under the hotend tip close to the screw and adjust the screw so the drillbit will roll just slightly touching the tip. Don't say that, I just people put to much into it. The paper test is just a feeler, what you want to do to get it 99.9% right is: finetuning after the paper test. But tby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Thevisad, I check it ou and it seems to have more to it then the version I'm using. So what is the best way to get my current settings into the newer version? There seems to be a lot that is different. Just go through it line by line, it will take you about 10-15 minutes to go through it and read what each setting is. This is modeled after the folgertech machine that I built so tby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 I'm going to look into upgrading to Repetier but I'm not sure what I need to do as far as firmware goes. I have repetier host installed and it connects to my printer but I'm still use the firmware that I have been using. I would like to check and see what version of Marlin I'm using but I'm not sure where to check for the version number. Where do I find that information? If you aby thevisad - Delta Machines
The fan should be connected to d9 i believe it is and not always on. With this you can control the speed and fan from inside the firmware. Otherwise you are locked into having the fan forced on for you.by thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Quote09zx-6r davidf01, have you tried to do the bed leveling calibration with the bed at temp ? i had a similar issue with my mendel90 and a cheapo aluminum HB... as it warmed up it warped in the center, so i did a calibration while hot and just did all my prints with the bed on...works perfectly.. for me anyway... just a thought 09zx-6r, Yes I have calibrated with a hot bedby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Ah I see what you are saying now. So the acrylic that I have my print bed attached to in this picture I should change to something different and more solid? I would I started having issues when the bed started heating and warped the acrylic that was under it.by thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Quotethevisad Quotedavidf01 Quotethevisad Quotedavidf01 So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is higher then the from right side. I'm not quite surby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 Quotethevisad Quotedavidf01 So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? Ifby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotedavidf01 So I have mapped out my auto level data and it confirms my thoughts as to why I'm having a heck of a time calibrating my printer so that I get correct size prints with larger models. Here is a picture show what is going on the my print bed. I can see that the back left side is higher then the from right side. I'm not quite sure how to fix this issue? If I put a level on the print bby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotefattmann That's what I figured I needed, that was not in my kit . Wouldn't be the only thing missing. I'll see what I can scrounge up, just didn't want to jam just anything in the hole. I've looked at that guide before and had issues with some of the verbiage, as they assume you know the intricacies of the commands being used which I don't in all cases. I still haven't found a good primeby thevisad - Delta Machines
Quotefattmann What screw type did you use to attach the Z-probe switch to the servo? None of the hardware that came with my kit (Rev B ) will fit in the hole. All the hardware is far too large, and the servo hole doesn't have threads, and the manual doesn't even mention mounting it. I was going to ignore the auto leveling until I got it going, but I cannot for the love of me get it to stop traby thevisad - Delta Machines