Quotefattmann QuoteKoenig Quotefattmann QuoteKoenig Could yo perhaps post a photo of your ramps with everything connected? Not the best picture, took them real quick on the way out of the house to work this morning. ] Yeah, a bit hard to see, but from what I can see you have not connected power to all four connections on the green block in the lower right corner of the picture. I guess it dby cislom - Delta Machines
Quotefattmann QuoteSven.L Hi. No, I use the M3-8mm bolts. These 8mm bolts are the shortest ones. But how many M3-8mm bolts are used up for the construction? Who can answer? I need to know, in order to understand how many spare bolts of that type I have. Thanks. :-D Each connector piece to extruded aluminum needs four bolts, and the bottom pieces are double tall. So you're looking at 36 for thby cislom - Delta Machines
Ok - a little update on my quest for buttery smoothness on my linear rails. Sit back, grab a beer and listen to the tale of woe, pain and finally triumph. I have tried a few things to get my rails to stop binding up or studdering (took out the wire that holds the ball bearings in place, used super lube, sacrificed a chicken, or two (delicious...)) and I have finally found the correct combinatioby cislom - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Quotecislom I am in the middle of replacing all the ball bearings with stainless steel ones (just ordered) to see if that helps on my rails. They seem to work fine if the are dripping with Super-Lube, but there are a few occasions when printing things with a lot of stop and starts that the rails will "studder" at a certain spot and the print will have a noticeable line where the lby cislom - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Quotewrangellboy For me it's not passive dismissal so much as impatience. If my choices are wait weeks for an RMA or fix it myself, I'm likely going to fix it myself. That said I'm debating contacting them now about a bad linear rail. One of mine sucks despite my best efforts to fix it and it consistently ruins prints by overheating the stepper and/or binding. The part price onby cislom - Delta Machines
Just a quick note to let you know my ordeal... I went thorough the process of updating my steps to to 80 and calibrating my system for that and the results have been spot on. When my steps were set at 84, I had the system dialed in (I thought) but the height was always off (for a 25 mm cube the height was always 26.5 no matter what I did. Now after much tweaking I am within +- .2 mm which I thby cislom - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Quotecislom Quotethevisad Ahh then you missed all of my posts where I talk about immediate and drastic improvements. If you are using the 84 steps per mm settings then they are not a tad under, they are way under. Calibration should not be done on 10mm objects, they should be done on 100mm objects. If they are a tad undersized then you are not using the proper settings because theyby cislom - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Ahh then you missed all of my posts where I talk about immediate and drastic improvements. If you are using the 84 steps per mm settings then they are not a tad under, they are way under. Calibration should not be done on 10mm objects, they should be done on 100mm objects. If they are a tad undersized then you are not using the proper settings because they should be larger. Place aby cislom - Delta Machines
ok - another newbie type question.... So I have my bed leveled and I can print flat (took some time and effort, but all is well). I have calibrated my extruder to make sure 100 mm asked for is 100 mm received. So now the last thing is I am trying to print out a 20 mm x 20 mm x 20 mm box and it is coming up 20.8 x 20.6 x 21. Is the only place I have to tweak the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT inby cislom - Delta Machines
Quotebluesmike Nevermind... seems somehow overnight my calibration took a hit. Think I'll try Thevisads firmware and recalibrate. Yeah - that got me before too. If you do a "Home" - G28 after calibration, you lose your settings - so make sure you do your calibration after you home, or every time before a print.by cislom - Delta Machines
Quotealvinaw11 has anyone else had trouble with their bed temps continually dropping after being on for just a few minutes? I have added a cork board material as a heatshield and the ramps board seem to be shielded from heat now. im printing ABS so theyre from 100-110, but it will just gradually fall once the z home finishes probing, also to disable the z probe do i just need to remove the jumpby cislom - Delta Machines
So I took the advice and put a small thermal break between my controller and the heat bed (3 pieces of cardboard - for starters - I know, I know - cheap bastard... but I just wanted to test it first) - seems to do the trick. BUT - my print would still fail about 15 mins in - It was driving me crazy... So just out of curiosity, I unplugged the RepRap Discount Smart Controller and low and behold Iby cislom - Delta Machines
QuoteDeguello There are two ways to "level" the bed - from the bottom (bed springs) or from the top (adjust the endstops). I added screws to the top of the carriages and replaced the end effector with a dial indicator, then adjusted the endstops and DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET to achieve flat travel across the bed. Later I installed the latest Marlin firmware and used M666 to adjust endstops and M66by cislom - Delta Machines
Quote3D52 I took the time yesterday and manually leveled my bed, not only did I learn a lot, my prints are awesome. No more auto level for me..... So - just for my own knowledge - did you use the existing acrylic mounts and put some springs on, or did you make/mount it to something new? Are you using anything else on top of the aluminum plate? I was looking to so the same thing, for some reasoby cislom - Delta Machines
Chapter 3.... So after I added the fan shroud I could get the temp up over 215 to print in ABS, so that part is solved (Thanks again @Flish and @Deguello). But now another issue (maybe its all related?) I tried print an ABS part - Temp 220 - Bed 80 (I have a 40 mm fan blowing across the controller with a small switch so I can turn it off if I want). So now with the shroud I can get up to tempby cislom - Delta Machines
@ Flish @Deguello - Great Idea I think that is a winner - I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.by cislom - Delta Machines
Quotemmcginnis9272 Quotecislom I am a newb - but have been holding my own using this forum as reference, but I have an odd one... Got my Foldertech 2020 2 weeks back and have loved it - been printing in PLA for a while and I figured it was time to do some upgrades, so I wanted to print out a new effector and mount some new rod lengths - anyways long story short I got some ABS to print. So I staby cislom - Delta Machines
I tired printing the same thing in PLA and it worked - so I think this must be heat related. I will try putting a small fan on the board to see if that helps, I do have the board mounted under the heatbed like in the instructions, but was a little leery about that to begin with. If this is the solution I may try rewiring the board to be elsewhere. Thanks for the quick response, I'll let you knby cislom - Delta Machines
I am a newb - but have been holding my own using this forum as reference, but I have an odd one... Got my Foldertech 2020 2 weeks back and have loved it - been printing in PLA for a while and I figured it was time to do some upgrades, so I wanted to print out a new effector and mount some new rod lengths - anyways long story short I got some ABS to print. So I started out with a temp of 220 andby cislom - Delta Machines