Quotematthew900 Hi, I've haven't used my printer in about 6 months and tried to get it working again this week. I had upgraded to windows 10 since I last used it so I updated the Arduino softare and printrun. Now I can not get the printer to work. When I try to load the firmware with Arduino I'm getting the following error message: avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout avrdude: stk500v2_Reby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Based on my internet research it looks like missing boot loader is the most common cause. Since I can get a new board for $10 I'll probably just order a new one instead of trying to figure out how to reprogram this one.by matthew900 - Delta Machines
I thought it looked like it was not communicating as well. Device manager has it as com 3 and all of the programs are detecting it as com 3 as well. Should it be something else? Is there some other issue that would keep it from communicating? It's frustrating because as far as Windows is concern it's connected properly but both arduino and pronterface are unable to connect. Could something have gby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Hi, I've haven't used my printer in about 6 months and tried to get it working again this week. I had upgraded to windows 10 since I last used it so I updated the Arduino softare and printrun. Now I can not get the printer to work. When I try to load the firmware with Arduino I'm getting the following error message: avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage():by matthew900 - Delta Machines
I've been trying to get my printer dialed in as well and I'm still oversized in the horizontal plane. I downloaded the most recent version of thevisad's fork of the marlin firmware that has the delta tower correction code added in. I'm using this calibration object but I'm seeing no change in the object when I adjust the DELTA_TOWER correction values. Do I need to make change somewhere else to gby matthew900 - Delta Machines
The intial part of the instructions was great and comprehensive but my two big issues are the instructions only covered half the calibration and the firmware they provided doesn't work properly. Don't sell me a printer with autoleveling and forget to mention you haven't even got that function to work in your firmware. I bought this kit because I wanted something where someone else already figuredby matthew900 - Reprappers
Quotemel0n Quotemadmike8 I'm not sure most of the problems are from the kits themselves, but rather from completely inexperienced people building them. Nothing wrong with that either, as I see them asking and learning as they go, and helping others along the way. ^ this combined with pretty poor instructions that leave a lot for the person building it to figure out on their own. I liked that aspby matthew900 - Reprappers
Thanks! I figured my blow torch method was a bit heavy handed. I was pissed and it made me feel better. What's the best solvent for PLA? On the plus side removing the thermistor and heater from the hot end helped me learn something useful. I added thermal paste to both when I reassembled it and discovered my hot end heated up way faster and I think the thermistor is responding to temperature chaby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Hi, I've finally got mine working pretty good after making some big messes and I had a few questions as I get things dialed in. What is the best method for clearing out filament that has gotten melted into the threads in the hot end and steel tube from the J-head? I had a print that went bad when I was out because the new fan shroud I added fell of causing the j-head to over heat. My son hit theby matthew900 - Delta Machines
I put two layers of corkboard under my heatbed with each piece covered in the metalic aluminum tape you use on furnaces. With this setup the bed has been heating up reliably and quickly. Plus it's kept the under bed temps nice and low.by matthew900 - Delta Machines
I'm not sure what motors I have. I used the aluminum corners which will act as heat sinks so I'm not sure how much heat they are generating. I have my steps at 80 and the z axis is coming out perfect. It is the horizontal plane in the x/y axis that's oversized. Which adjustments in the configuration will only impact the x/y plane without changing the z axis? Thanks!by matthew900 - Delta Machines
Tim, thanks for the Firmware, it worked great once removed that line. My test print came out great but I ended up with a couple new questions. My 20 mm test cube came out at a perfect 20 mm on the z axis but the x and y axis's came out slightly larger at 20.7 mm. If I make adjustments to the motor steps will it effect the z axis as well? How do I adjust my x and y axis's without effecting the zby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Quotetadawson Try commenting out the feature it is telling you is unsupported . . . - Tim What does that test do? Will removing it shut down the auto level function?by matthew900 - Delta Machines
Quotetadawson You don't take the file over, you edit the values from the old version into the new version, by reading and comparing. As you have noted, a bunch of stuff has restructured in Marlin, and the old Configuration.h file won't just drop in. To get the entire release, you need to be up a few levels at You can select 'Download Zip', or, if you feel like installing git on your box, use thby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Because these are beyond the scope of the document you are referring to. Also, half the questions are answered inside the firmware, if you would only take the effort to read the configuration.h file or the posts in the forum, just on the page prior You do not need to adjust the extruder gear normally. Find what the setting is for direct drive, set it at that and leave it alone.by matthew900 - Delta Machines
I would have preferred to use the parts in the kit but some of the printed parts where so bad that they started delaminating as soon as I tightened the screws. And I’m not talking about super tight, just a little past snug. They were so bad that they had already cut away part of the first layer that had delaminated before they shipped it. Since I had to order new corners I went ahead and orderedby matthew900 - Delta Machines
The "Triffid's Calibration Guide" says to feed the filament without the hot end. Is there a better calibration guide I should use instead? The first 5 steps are: 1.Remove the hot-end from extruder so you don't waste filament. 2.Feed in some filament. 3.Using the extruder body as a reference point, mark the filament at 120mm. 4.Tell the printer to feed 100mm of filament. 5.Measure the distanby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Quotetadawson I would have liked a few other angles on the photos, but that's it. What part of the kit did you feel the documentaion overlooked? -Tim Everything past calibrating the axis. There's nothing on loading the filament, calibrating the extruder, calibrating the temperatures on the hot end and hot bed, loading and printing the test print, and how to make adjustments based on the test prby matthew900 - Delta Machines
If they included instructions for the part they shipped I would have a starting point which is my complaint. I tried to put in the 100mm in that box but then it started freaking out about the hot end not being heated. Is there a line command to just feed the filament or a way to bypass the hot end safety protocol? Just noticed the hotend question was answered while I typed this. Thanks!by matthew900 - Delta Machines
This is my first 3D printer so I am new to all the software and calibrations. I think the instructions left out some things they assumed you knew how to do, they end at the calibration of everything but the extruder. Can anyone help me out with instructions on setting up the filament and calibrating the extruder? I tried the Triffid's Calibration Guide but step 4 is “Tell the printer to feed 100mby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Thanks! Changing that setting worked. There where so many complaints about the extruder it came with that I bought a Bulldog XL when I ordered the aluminum corners. Now all I need to do is figure out how to calibrate it.by matthew900 - Delta Machines
Well we finally got everything together, uploaded the 20 tooth firmware with the Arduino program, but we're getting an error in Pronterface. We get a bunch of random symbols when we try to connect. I've attached a screen print of what's happening. Does anyone have an idea what could cause this or have suggestions for what to try? I'm using the USB cable it came with and I've tried every USB portby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Quoterotten_carrot Thanks very much for your posts regarding the rails - and of cause the all important pictures. It would seem that you've cracked it! I've just finished cleaning and lubricating my own. Two weren't too bad but one was completely seized and took a good soak in gun oil for the slider to shift at all. I'm sure that it will come as no surprise that all three are missing one bearby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Attached are the pictures of the bars I removed with red arrows pointing to them. In the picture of the slide you can see how bearings are missing. I also included a picture of the slide with bars removed before being reinstalled on the guide rail. Please note it will not just slide on without the bars. You must put something in the middle to hold the bearings in then slide it out as you slide inby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Quotellamatrails Are you talking about the thin 1mm red end caps? Can we just remove them while they are still on the rails? Will the screws still hold the green sections in place? This is a different part then the red caps, you want to keep those to help protect the bearings. You actually need to remove the slide from the guide rail to see it. I’ll post a picture later tonight of the part yoby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Great post and good on finding that out. How and where did you locate the balls that were the proper size? I went to local bearing supply houses till I found one that had them. The size is 3/32" which I though was weird since the rails where made in China. I’ve taken apart 5 slides now and on every one there was one bearing missing from each side. I'm not sure if the manufacturer wby matthew900 - Delta Machines
I’ve figured out how to fix the linear rails! Like everyone else I’ve been fixated on the bearings and hadn’t been looking for other sources of drag. It turns out the bearings where not the issue, it’s the small metal rail on the outside of the bearings! The bar is dragging on the inside of the guide rail. This is why the people using gun oil are seeing such an improvement because gun oil is deby matthew900 - Delta Machines
Unfortunately this was one of the better feeling ones. I'm assuming this is the issue with all of them so a replacement would have the same or similar issues. I did ask for a replacement of the one that was really bad and they are taking care of it. They have been very responsive which is great. My recommendation would be that they start testing them all before shipping and pull the worse oneby matthew900 - Delta Machines
So I decided to disassemble one of the linear rails to see if I could get it to work right since I'm running out of things to work on till the aluminum corners get here. I discovered the same thing others have, missing bearings and minor metal shavings, but what I also discovered was that the channels the bearings move thru inside the slide where not manufactured evenly. I tried to take a coupleby matthew900 - Delta Machines
I started assembling the electronics while I wait on my replacement rail and I hit another snag within 30 mins. When I tried to install the RAMPS board on the Arduino I discovered my Arduino has a power input that the one in the instructions manuals does not have and it’s keeping the Ramps board from fully seating by interfering with the pins on the bottom of the ramps board. I’ve attached a coupby matthew900 - Delta Machines