One project I have been working on is a design for a TPU "aero pod" for a racing drone frame manufacturing company. Heres a sample of one I printed using an m600 to change from red to black, to match the motors on my drone.by TheHebs - Delta Machines
I have been printing a lot of tpu (over 5kg since I built this thing) lately, and I noticed some spool pull layer inconsistencies, so I designed an on-board spool setup. You can get the files for the arms and loc-line ball mount in my big delta mods onshape documents: You can get the little 8mm bearing/rod adapters and filament guide here: I am also using rowokii's parametric universal spooby TheHebs - Delta Machines
QuoteDjDemonD I think its a shame because if you start steadily and build up your knowledge and skills then you can get an immense amount of fun, satisfaction and beautiful parts from reprap style 3D printing. But as I have said to people in the forum asking where they should start, if you haven't got an engineering or electronics background build a decent kit that's known to work and will contaiby TheHebs - Delta Machines
QuoteDjDemonD Well this is horses for courses. I built my large delta using metal everything and whilst it does print well, the difference between it, and my kossel mini in terms of print quality is perhaps 30-40% better, despite it costing at least £1000 to build, and obviously many, many hours of my time. Plastic corners can work fine if they are printed well and of suitable size and quality. Tby TheHebs - Delta Machines
QuoteGroupB QuoteTheHebs QuoteGroupB Nice, but I have some reservation about this specific design with plastic corner and gt2 6mm for that size of a printer if you plan to upgrade it later ( that what we do here,upgrade all the time or switch to another build, building a 3d printer is addictive ) you must look into replacing all plastic part with metal and use 9mm belts. They dont sell some prefby TheHebs - Delta Machines
QuoteGroupB Nice, but I have some reservation about this specific design with plastic corner and gt2 6mm for that size of a printer if you plan to upgrade it later ( that what we do here,upgrade all the time or switch to another build, building a 3d printer is addictive ) you must look into replacing all plastic part with metal and use 9mm belts. They dont sell some prefab for 40X40 corner but sby TheHebs - Delta Machines
Quote3DRapidClone Impressive! I like what you did with your wiring. Any plans to enclose? Thanks. Possibly but i doubt it. Its mostly my PLA/TPU printer. IT would require over 900 watts to heat this bed.by TheHebs - Delta Machines
Generally its some type of issue like a wheel with a flat spot, or something snagging at a certain spot (filament, wires etc...)by TheHebs - Delta Machines
You can see the bottom springs in this pic. I also have some at the top of the rods as well.by TheHebs - Delta Machines
I take out slop with zip ties and springs.by TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Prints** After a couple retraction an extrusion test prints, I printed this marvin, and I was already impressed... I thought this one looked cool and sh owed the consistency of the printer. Here is a benchy in hatchbox wood PLA at 60 mm/s: Here is a wood benchy again at 100 mm/s. Other than some slight retraction tuning, it was almost flawless. I printed Imperial Storm Trooper Micby TheHebs - Delta Machines
**post claimed for issues that I have had**by TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Bed** Most of us #BigDelta guys use an 18" glass table top (see bom) from amazon. It would require around 900 watts to heat it, so most of us use no heat. For bed adheasion we use glueall. I personally mix about 100ml of glueall/water at a 70%(water)/30%(glueall) ratio. I then put the bed on a level surface, apply the glueall in the middle and work it towards the outside with my finger, addingby TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Effector/Hotend/Z Probe** I am using a version of Thews' effector that was remixed by Dumle29, which has spots for magnets which are used to hold Dumle's Z probe mount.I am using an authentic Jhead Mk8 (thanks reifsnyderb). I used JST connectors to the parts blower fan, hotend fan, and one for z probe so that I can easily replace anything when I need to. Link to "Latest Big Delta Effector",by TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Extruder** I tried to use Thews' sextruder with only PTFE, but the ptfe rotated and the tatsu gear destroyed it... So for right now I am using s0up's sextruder v2: Note: Get the "Body" file. I added a variable so that you can adjust the ptfe hole diameter. So far this extruder has been working extremely well for me. Once I get a metal tube for the liner of Thews' extruder I will probablyby TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Feet ** If you couldnt tell already, I am pretty OCD with my builds. I wanted to hide as much wiring as I could. In order to gain access to the center channels of the 4040 verticals to run my mains wire, I designed some little feet. The feet allow access to all channels: I also wanted the feet to reduce the surface area contact with he ground, because the printer will be on carpet. When I haby TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Electronics and Wiring** I decided to go with the AZteeg X5 Mini V3. I wanted to use TMC2100's (silent step sticks) and I wanted to use smoothieware, but I didnt want to deal with the little daughter boards etc... I spent a little time designing a mount for it. I ended up adding a spot for a buck converter because I am using a 24 psu, but running 12v fans, etc... I also wanted more than 2 Pby TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Rod Assembly** *Notes: The printer uses 18" traxxas rod kits (see BOM). Thews designed a jig to do all 6 rods at once, but I figured it wouldnt be as accurate as glueing 1 or 3 at a time. I remixed a 1 and 3 rod jig. I highly recommend using the single rod jig and taking your time to do 1 at a time. This will ensure that they are all exactly the same length. I did the first 3 in one batch, anby TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Carriage Assembly ** - The carriage assembly is pretty straight forward.by TheHebs - Delta Machines
**Frame Construction** I first drilled and tapped all of the extrusions to M5. I then pre installed all of the vertex bolts and T-Nuts. Note: I used the pre install nuts on the horizontals, and the openbuilds (very important) post nuts on the verticalts. I then built the top and bottom triangles. I used a 2x4 block and a dead blow to hammer the 4040 verticals into oneby TheHebs - Delta Machines
***Printed Parts*** All parts were printed on my road dog baja i3 kit (with lots of custom designed mods). Most were printed around .25 layer height, 40 mm/s, 3 tops and bottoms, 60 infill, at 205C/65C. Total print time was 98.98 hours, I used 1,465 grams of filament, and total cost was $33.70. (See the bottom of my BOM for a break down) I recommend using the chopped slots as they are easier tby TheHebs - Delta Machines
I finished the build of my #BigDelta a few weeks ago and I feel that there isnt much documentation or build photos etc... for it, so I figure its time someone changed that. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ***Notes/Facts About the #BigDelta*** This delta was primarily designed by Thews (Justin Edwards). The best resource for this printer is thby TheHebs - Delta Machines
I just used my ratchet driver without a bit.by TheHebs - Delta Machines