QuoteFirmwareFool So you were able to print though? Do you just not do a G29? How do you calibrate your bed if you can't G29 properly? Not sure if you were directing towards me, but I'll throw in my experiences. I tried twice to get the autolevel to work- both times it fried some of my stepper drivers, so I promptly removed the servo and tossed it in a box. So no, I do not use G29 at all, neverby fattmann - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand I went to springs under the three screws to level the plate and I've been fine with that. The aluminum disk they supply is plenty flat for the accuracy of this machine, in my opinion. Just as a heads up, it doesn't stay flat. Mine was flat as cut stone when I started. I've printed quite a bit so far, with my heatbed ranging from 40-70*C. It is starting to curl up the edges, ever soby fattmann - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand Fattman (and Tim): I decided to manually calibrated my Folger Delta using springs since I had the same problem Tim is having, namely that I ended up with one of two scenarios depending on how I set the "inverting axis" flags. Either the head goes up when calibrating instead of down and it would home correctly, or vice versa: the printer would calibrate correctly but the head would cby fattmann - Delta Machines
How often are people having to recalibrate their Deltas? I had it dialed in, and printed a few beautiful pieces last night, was really happy with it. Tonight I fire it up (haven't moved the machine at all, or changed any settings) and went to print the exact same file I printed last night- and it nosedives into the bed on the X+ side.... It seems like I go through this every week. I'll get a dayby fattmann - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Quotefattmann The PLA would solidify before even adhering to the bed. Either way, I shall be trying another route. Use your slicer to turn fan On only after N layers. On my ever growing list. I have it hardwired as per the build manual, and haven't gotten it routed through the RAMPS board yet.by fattmann - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta I'd suggest to run PID calibration procedure after fan modification. The PID coefficient changes significantly after installation and re-calibration helps to make the temperature as stable as possible. Interesting, haven't heard of the PID calibration before, will look into it. Quotepaul_delta I tried this fan duct before I decided to make my own. It doesn't work - the draft frby fattmann - Delta Machines
I added paul_delta's cold end fan shroud, as I couldn't get my hotend over 200 with the fan blowing over everything. I printed a few things at 210, and while I still had stinging, they turned out amazing. I haven't tried to print anything above 210- that's the point where my Hatchbox PLA seems to instantly liquefy. I had to reverse about 20mm to keep it from just oozing out of the nozzle at idle.by fattmann - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand I believe that the tip that folger supplied with the 3mm hot end is 0.3mm. I've wondered this too, what is the size of the Folger tip? Have they changed it from Rev A to Rev B?by fattmann - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta No, I don't like how this Hatchbox Silver PLA prints small objects. My Moon Wihte FolgerTech PLA prints are much cleaner and the roll is two times (!) cheaper. I reduced retraction speed twice - to 30mm/s and temperature to 175C - still visible blobs and strings: Interesting. I don't get any of the blobbing, but I definitely get the stringing. Next color I buy I will have to tby fattmann - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Interesting... just printed this model with Hatchbox Silver PLA and there are some almost invisible strings. The white one was printed using original Folgertech white PLA. Looks like Hatchbox PLA is not so good for small objects. Does anyone know the brand of PLA that Folgertech sells (it's out of stock now). There is nothing except the number on the roll that I bought from them.by fattmann - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta I had a chance to print this model with my default PLA settings for small things (no active cooling). I'm attaching the Simplify3D v3.0.2 settings file. The settings are: 0.1 mm layer 178C extruder temperature, 50C bed Manual width set to 0.5mm (0.4mm nozzle) Retraction: speed is 60mm/s, lenght 7mm, Z-lift 0.1mm Z-axis movement speed 20mm/s X-Y movement speed 150mm/s The coolingby fattmann - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Retraction length is what I adjust to avoid blobs. I don't see blobs in your print, so you have enough retraction. To avoid stringing, it's temperature (lower is better) and retraction speed that you need to adjust. Try 180C after the first layer and slower retraction. Will do! Couple buddies that have Cartesian printers told me that's how they solved their retraction, I thought theby fattmann - Delta Machines
I'm having a retraction issues I was hoping I could get pointers on. I've been printing this test piece here. And I can't seem to dial out the webbing seen here That was the last one I printed with the following settings: Res:0.1mm, Infill: 100%, Travel: 150mm/s, Retraction length: 5mm, Lift Z: 0.5mm, Retraction speed: 40mm/s, Retract on layer change: Yes, Wipe while retracting: Yes. Hatchboxby fattmann - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Just repeat your calibration near screws, measure the Z difference in the center and multiply by 2.2. Add or substract the result to/from delta radius and repeat calibration. But I suggest to find the center of plate (actually, the center of ABC towers triangle) first, as provided in video. In Marlin there is no procedure for that, so you can just use the rod or ruler to place enby fattmann - Delta Machines
Not sure on your first issue as I do not run Repetier, but the Marlin FW won't let you run the extruder motor until the hotend is up to temp to prevent binding. If it's not seeing the correct temp (cause the thermistor isn't hooked up, or the hotend isn't heating) then it won't allow the extruder to spin. I would assume that's the same for most FW.by fattmann - Delta Machines
That works beautifully to level the bed, thanks! I ended up using a 2.5mm allen key, as I didn't have any metric drill bits, but the principle is what I needed. As luck would have it now I'm having issues with the damn Smooth Rod Offset deal. I'll level the bed using your method, but the ends will be lower than the center. So I adjust Smooth Rod, then Z home to compensate. I assume it's just aby fattmann - Delta Machines
Question on odd movement. If I drop down to a Z height of 2mm, then move all the way to the screw that is directly in front of Y+, then manually drop the Z down with two clicks of the Z-1 button, there is still way more than a paper gap. If I drop to a Z height of 0mm, which passes the paper test in the center, then manually move to the Y+ position- it scars the printbed the whole way buryingby fattmann - Delta Machines
Whoa. Never heard of this rod thing. Is that just a Repetier thing? I'm currently on Marlin. Messed with Repeteir a few weeks ago and couldn't figure out their configuration tool... Leveling at each screw makes sense, I'll give that a shot.by fattmann - Delta Machines
Anyone have a write up on most efficient way of leveling the printbed with springs? I through in springs under the three mounting points cause I was having some leveling issues. But now that I have three degrees of adjustment it's kind of daunting. I spent a good 30min going back and forth- getting one axis good, which would trash the other. I'm also wondering if people usually go with three orby fattmann - Delta Machines
Does anyone happen to have the ball bearing size for the linear rail sliders (or how many are supposed to be in each block)? I tore down the worst one last night and it certainly seems like I am missing a few, which I hear is a common problem. I cleaned, then lubed the hell out of it with gun oil- still rolls like crap...by fattmann - Delta Machines
Lucky. Took my brother and I a week working 6hrs a day to get it together. Instructions were awful in some parts, and we had to hand file/drill all the 3D pieces rather significantly to make things fit. I want to get the aluminum corners, but have also heard horror stories of people having to ratchet strap it together they were so poorly formed.by fattmann - Delta Machines
Hopefully you fare better than I, but don't be surprised if you run out of hardware. I was short t-nuts, and three different sizes of bolts, jumpers, and a plug. Many others have reported missing parts as well. Thankfully Folger Tech was able to send out more hardware, but it may take a little while.by fattmann - Delta Machines
I hear the general consensus is to ditch the Z-probe, as paul_delta recently expressed, but wanted input on an unfortunate event I recently had. I got my printer working, and pumped out a ton of test prints. Was doing alright, I need to dismantle and rebuild the linear rails, thems is the roughness... While playing with everything I figured I would give the Z-probe a shot, just to see how it woby fattmann - Delta Machines
You bet your ass I'm gonna be making these settings changes when I get home for the night. Thanks again!!by fattmann - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta QuoteLegrand It moves just fine. Straight down. The G28 works fine also. It's just as fattman describes. Hit the red Y/X button in the center bullseye and all hell breaks loose. Power down, Hit reset button on the board, Re-ho So, your printer works fine, it's just Pronterface wrong settings. When you press this red button, what do you see in communication window? What command doby fattmann - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand QuoteKoenig QuoteLegrand Next up is that I will try to figure out why it's not going to the center of the bed when I hit the center (X/Y) button in Pronterface..... Do you mean it doesn't go down to the bed, or that it just doesn't center in the plane it is over the bed? Have you set that you have a circular build platform in pronterface? I mean that it doesn't center in the planeby fattmann - Delta Machines
QuoteCheck your slicing software and inspect generated g-code. There is definitely temp. command in g-code that waits for 205. Will do. QuoteBecause the model you are trying to print is bigger than your radius or has too big offset from the center of bed (because of wrong setting is slicing software, for example). The model I was trying to print was only the size of a Nickel, so I know theby fattmann - Delta Machines
I think I finally got my printer to travel the correct distance, although I had to both use just the M3 jumper, AND double the step rate in the FW to get the 8825 stepper drivers to cooperate ( including taking the extruder motor up to 200). MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS has been set to 267.2 for it to pass the paper test. The issue I am now running into is when I start a print, it attempts to move clear ofby fattmann - Delta Machines
Interesing.... I commented out #define EEPROM_SETTINGS & #define EEPROM_CHITCHAT And that seems to have helped. Thanks! Sadly I must head to bed. Will play with it tomorrow.by fattmann - Delta Machines
Setting the FW to 160 STEPS_PER_UNIT doesn't change the 5mm movement. Neither does changing it to 40.by fattmann - Delta Machines