QuoteElectric ant On another note, when I use G28 in pronterface, my printer homes with all 3 axis but they don't come back down enough to release the stop switches, anyone know why ? It will only release the end stops if you have set a m666 value. Try sending m666 x2 y2 z2 and then g28 to try it out. What this does is home until endstops are triggered and then move down 2 mm. You can alby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Sugar water? Seriously? Never heard of that working... What's it good for?by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
When printing pla, outdoor painters tape works much better compared to kapton. You only need kapton for the high temperatures that ABS require of the bedby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Hotend fan should be working at all times. Of course, if you plugged in the PWM control, you need to give the manual command to turn it in pronterface, or in your gcode when printing (M106 S255). you will be better off connecting the hotend fan directly to the PSU, and use the pwm controlled output to use with an object fan later when you want one. in my experience, having to turn the fan on eveby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 QuoteTha_Reaper Both the 5A and the 11A input should be connected to the (same) PSU. If you leave the 11A input not connected and only use the 5, the hotend and bed will not heat up. You don't need seperate connections. Just plug in the wires together with other ones, but try to balance the load. For example: 5A and fan together on output 1, 11A on another output 2. It is safeby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Both the 5A and the 11A input should be connected to the (same) PSU. If you leave the 11A input not connected and only use the 5, the hotend and bed will not heat up. You don't need seperate connections. Just plug in the wires together with other ones, but try to balance the load. For example: 5A and fan together on output 1, 11A on another output 2. It is safe to connect the bed to the PSU diby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper QuoteNoitome I am unable to find 1.0.6 but have already tried 1.0.5. Also I tried following the troubleshooting duide and it got me taking off the mega and trying the blink script without anything attached. That worked. Though now I have reattached everything the LCD doesn't display anything anymore, it goes on but no text whatsoever. I have pressed the reset button on the mega, bby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
QuoteNoitome I am unable to find 1.0.6 but have already tried 1.0.5. Also I tried following the troubleshooting duide and it got me taking off the mega and trying the blink script without anything attached. That worked. Though now I have reattached everything the LCD doesn't display anything anymore, it goes on but no text whatsoever. I have pressed the reset button on the mega, but is this normaby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
You must not have pronterface connected, or Marlin will not upload. Latest arduino sdk works fine, just as the latest Marlin version. I would recommend starting with 1.1.0 RC2 immediately instead of calibrating with an old version and then having to update and going through the process againby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
103 for most abs. Pla at 99. And I have 2 odd rolls of abs that need 73 estepsby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Yes, the end of the Sinton rods are too big and they clash. Traxxas ends are smaller and they will not interfere with each otherby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotehacker Isn't everything a curve on delta? I guess you are right on that one but long segments are easier to calculate compared to many short ones. I can see a noticeable slowdown when printing something like many small circles above 80mm/sby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteTha_Reaper Because i can change esteps on the fly with the LCD without the need for reslicing. For some reason, when i change the flow setting to 80 (i assume this is 80%) with the LCD, nothing comes out of the nozzle anymore, so i'm not sure that setting does whats it's supposed to do (or that i understand how it works for all i know...) I was planning on just writing the correcby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteTha_Reaper Well this is new.... i have been happily printing ABS at 230 degrees with my 104 esteps for the extruder... I bought 2 new spools of ABS and i had to change the temperature to 250 degrees... not that weird.... but i also had to change the esteps to 84 before it started to print remotely decent. I really have no idea whats going on. i measured the diameter of the filamby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Well this is new.... i have been happily printing ABS at 230 degrees with my 104 esteps for the extruder... I bought 2 new spools of ABS and i had to change the temperature to 250 degrees... not that weird.... but i also had to change the esteps to 84 before it started to print remotely decent. I really have no idea whats going on. i measured the diameter of the filament, and its slightly biggerby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotelucawow QuoteOriginal sintron piece definitely suffers that. Just look closely at where adjacent rod ends may be touching each other as you move, it should be pretty obvious if it's the case.. There are plenty of solutions, new effector, carriages, new rod ends, new rods, etc… I opted in for changing whole rods (I wanted to change rod ends, but couldn't take the old ones off the rods). Oh mby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Im having trouble with the custom fan shroud which i posted a couple of messages back. I use this shroud so that the airflow over the bed would be minimal because my heatbed can hardly hold a temperature over 95 degrees C. Most noticeable at the first couple of layers, when the hotend is close to the bed and the fan creates a draft. I hoped directing the airflow with the shroud would solve this.by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I would recommend wiring the Heatsink fan directly to the power source (just plug them in together with the incoming 12V line in the big green input terminals for minimal hassle) and use D9 to control your object fan. That way you never forget to turn on the heatsink fan while printing because as soon as there is power, the fan will start to run. Forgetting to turn your heatsink fan on can haveby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
That makes sense... I used openscad to adjust the parameters, thats why i didnt have the restriction on the holes.by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
fanscrew 25? thats a bit weird. AFAIK standard 30mm fans have a screw distance of 24mm. Ive heard that the full graphical display gives performance isues on RAMPS with lots of round corners. I would love to hear your experience on this.by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quotegkr Hi GrAndAG, Good catch!! Thanks for pointing that out. Yes, the distance between the center of the mounting holes is 24mm. I knew I did something wrong, but it got late yesterday, and I was too eager to install the newly made fan-mount and test it out. I will make the change later today and see if that fixes it. Regards.That will fix it, because i've already printed one with those exby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG QuoteTha_Reaper On the E3D v5 vs V6 clone debate for the fan shroud... it seems like its neither. My sintron clone has a heatsink of 18,6mm diameter. The V6 has 22 mm, the V5 has a whooping 25mm heatsink. so... not a single heatsink on thingiverse will fit this clone it seem, and i'm afraid that i'm far from skilled enough to design my own. Hmm... Measured mine. It's 19.5mm in diamby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Take the basic v6 duct 30mm... But then suitable for my heatsinkby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
On the E3D v5 vs V6 clone debate for the fan shroud... it seems like its neither. My sintron clone has a heatsink of 18,6mm diameter. The V6 has 22 mm, the V5 has a whooping 25mm heatsink. so... not a single heatsink on thingiverse will fit this clone it seem, and i'm afraid that i'm far from skilled enough to design my own.by Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
Quoteohfurryone Hello, can anyone link me to or upload a copy of Sintrons carriage .stl files? All of mine have cracked and are hanging on by threads IIRC you can find those on page 4 or lower of this threadby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak ... The only test I had was when I printed an E3D fan shround and it fit perfectly. That's funny ... I just printed the fan shroud myself and it didn't fit. Too loose. At least 2mm play The fins have a diameter of 19.6mm while the shroud is made for 22mmby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines
I've changed some things on my printer... 1: 20 amp PSU instead of the stock 10 amps one. 2: I've added a SSR to power my headbed. works fine, except that it struggles to hold a temperature above 97 degrees. especially when the nozzle is printing the first layer and the nozzle fan is creating a bit of draft over the bed, Thermal Runway protection kicks in. Ive also noticed the SSR to get reallyby Tha_Reaper - Delta Machines