Quotehackersquall, is the recorder really playable? It kinda works, but not great You have to blow loudly for it to sound like a recorder. If you blow softly it just comes out breathy/wispy.by squall - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak Out of the objects you printed. How did you print out that straight linear bat thing. My machine has issues with making round stick like objects. Can you tell me your slic3r settings for that? That is actually a recorder It rolled on its side when I was trying to get focus on the camera in the previous pic. It's from thingiverse and made up of multiple segments that you just slot togby squall - Delta Machines
Agreed that this kit might not be everyone, but I have to say I haven't had to spend any extra on getting it working. The only real mod I had to do was grind the metal rod ballends so they don't bind. I've been having a lot of fun experimenting with printing and think it's great if you like building stuff yourself. Just some examples of the stuff I've played around printing so far:by squall - Delta Machines
@DrTak You'll first need to make sure you diagonal rod length matches up with the values in the firmware. If they do, you'll probably need to adjust motor steps and recalibrate again. You should also check that your tower is fully parallel and at correct 60degrees angles to each other (I just printed out a 60deg triangle onto some paper and made sure the towers matched perfectly) @Tha_Reaper 1.by squall - Delta Machines
The numbers were from the pronterface output he posted. I think you're right that the gcode is correct as I just loaded the one he posted and it shows the correct values: -11.71mm to 11.71mm in X and is 23.43 mm wide This means it's probably his pronterface settings that are wrong (maybe when he tried to correct the preview to be centered). I'm not sure if other peoples previews in pronterfaceby squall - Delta Machines
Somehow missed page 8 of this thread :/ Your pronterface output definitely looks wrong: The print goes: - from 88.29 mm to 111.71 mm in X and is 23.43 mm wide - from 88.29 mm to 111.71 mm in Y and is 23.43 mm deep - from 0.00 mm to 10.00 mm in Z and is 10.00 mm high The center of the bed should be at 0, 0, 0. An X/Y of 111.71mm is just past the edge of the bed which is why you see it hitting tby squall - Delta Machines
Did you calibrate the printer manually first before using the z-probe? Try calibrating manually and not using z-probe and see if that works (the Marlin firmware will 'forget' the z-probe settings everytime a home command (G28) is set). The gcode generated by slic3r puts a G28 command in, but probably doesn't have the z-probe command in it (which you have to manually add if you're using the z-probby squall - Delta Machines
@GrAndAG My black is connected where your yellow is and my red is connected where your black is. (I didn't connect yellow so it doesn't really matter which is red and black for me) Unless you really, really want the led lights to work on the end stops, it's safer not to connect the yellow one (which most likely should go where your red one is connected to). I think nebbian connected his so he woby squall - Delta Machines
@nebbian, is the PEI plate re-usable? or do you have to replace it after x prints? @kingoddball, wifi sounds really cool! really wish I had something like that on mine. Sintron sent me replacement ramps and motor drivers and now my printer works properly My first print came out as a blob of plastic as I didn't really know how to use slicer properly and just used the defaults which were all wroby squall - Delta Machines
Miamicraft posted the links on page 2 of this thread. Here's the PDF: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2w56ruepec5hgxo/Kossel mini instrution by sintron technology_v2.pdf password : Sintron_Technology I had to buy a dremel and dremel some of the parts myself as well to get them to fit nicely.by squall - Delta Machines
Your kossel is looking pretty good kingoddball. Did you print the parts yourself? BuildTak sounds great, I might have a look at getting some for my printer. An update on my build progress. I got some microswitches which were easier to press and now the zprobe works perfectly every time. I don't even have to compress the spring much for it to work. Pretty cool to see it doing the calibration. Bby squall - Delta Machines
Definitely will post some photos/vids if I get it working Are overhangs the bits which require support structures to be printed? My power supply blew up when I was testing it (I must of accidentally shorted it with the multimeter, luckily I hadn't connected it to the electronics yet). Just saw some sparks/explosion towards the back of the power supply. I took it apart and that's where the mosfeby squall - Delta Machines
Thanks for the info nebbian. It's great that your one is printing nicely now. I've spent hours on this z-probe and in the end the microswitch metal thing broke off from all the testing. Hoping that manual calibration is not too hard. With the heat bed, I've soldered the wires on, but was wondering if it is safe to tape the wires (with klapton) onto to the red side of the heat bed, or will theby squall - Delta Machines
Hi everyone, This is my first 3d printer which I got a couple of weeks ago and been slowly putting it together (nearly there, just got the heat bed and electronics left). Been having the same issues everyone here as with a lot of the parts not really fitting together properly. I'm using all the original parts still (I had to grind the metal rod ends so they don't bind - it doesn't look too niceby squall - Delta Machines