a very good option is just using the Traxxas rod ends. There is a very good explanation with part numbers and so on at the very beginning of the thread. Check the first pages! Maybe page 5 or so...by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
Hi Guys! I built a fan duct with 2 fans for the hotend (finally found a more or less suitable one on thingiverse). One for the heatsink, one for the nozzle/object. The heatsink fan gets power directly from the psu, the object cooler is connected to the default port on the ramps ( i think its c4?) In f.e. Cura I can configure that the fan should start after 2mm print-high or so to prevent warping.by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper I use Marlin 1.1 RC2 firmware. Could you please describe where to get it and what I have to take over from my current firmware/Settings, the package which came from Sintron (1.01 or so?). And is there a changelog to see if there are new features or which bugs have been fixed? Sorry for the dumb question, but I am a noob regarding this Aduino stuff and my research about newer versby MrPCatt - Delta Machines
But you guys should also consider.... a cheap 400 bucks kit might burn the 3d printing experience all together because its more frustrating than fun to work with. Its basically the same like every hobby... But I totally agree that a kit is the way to go for really getting into the matter.by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
BTW, my Sintron Aduino/Ramps died today for no reasons. Lets test Sintrons customer service once again And again I am without a printer for a week or so. Did not even managed to finish the printer itself with printparts and the thing broke twice already.by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
Quoterealthor Hi guys, I started reading the whole thread as I am thinking about maybe ordering one but i got pretty disappointed reading the first pages. Can someone tell me at what cost does this printer get to after re-printing the bad/wrongly designed/etc parts and ordering the new parts like the traxxas ball joints and if all the trouble is worth it for a new guy without an existing printerby MrPCatt - Delta Machines
About Delta-Calibration ... this page gave me some good hints about where to messure and curved edges and uneven virtual printbed and so on. Maybe it helps some of you too.by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
I currently use Cura. 25mm for the first layer, 50 for walls, 60mm infill. Sometimes I try 80-100 for infill. Stock extruder, hotend, nozzle, fans, everything. I dont have any problems with extrusion what so ever. 15 sounds way to slow for me. The machine is capable for more. But, I used 2 nozzles so far. And it seems that both came somewhat clogged from the factory. Maybe you can double check ifby MrPCatt - Delta Machines
My advice would be to not print such small objects for calibration. Try real objects and see if the dimensions are somewhat precise. Or at least take 20mm cubes or bigger.by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
For the object fan we now just need a really space saving solution. Or at least a solution which does not collide with one of the towers.by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
good point actually.... does anybody have a good cooling solution for our kits (and hotends) ? Most solutions I found either are made for different heatsink diameters or are to big overall costing way to much printspace on the edges. Or both And does it matter having a fan blowing to the noozle? Or do I have to make sure only have the fan hitting the object itself?by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
Thats what i tried in the first place. And this also worked for me the first time I had to unmount the noozle. Anyway, fortunately the parts and even the whole printhead is rather cheap. Maybe I should order also another one as spare, just in case.by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
... from cold to very hot.... just slowly with a torch. No matter what, the screws did not move at all. After the screws broke off I tried to recover it with a "bold extractor", dont know the exact english word. Now where I had nothing to lose I tried even brute force. No chance. Like it was welded together.I gave up when I saw the aluminum breaking from the stretching from the bold extractor.by MrPCatt - Delta Machines
Just a quick advice to you guys. If you have a leaking hotend, like pla is squeezing from the threads on the hotend, go fix it asap! I had just a littlebit of leaking there and after some prints ( yes, I got it somehow working) I wanted to clean the noozle (again) and stop the leaking there. I just could not screw the noozle or the screw to the head sink out of the hotend. Like it was welded togeby MrPCatt - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak I would never know what I know now if I had just bought a pre assembled printer. I actually think I would be bored with the whole idea. But part of the fun and frustration is figuring out calibration and fine tuning. Thats the reason I decided to go with a kit instead of buying something out of the box. Its all about introducing myself into the matter of 3D printing. The journey is thby MrPCatt - Delta Machines
Guys, thank you for your help! So i measured several things again and uploaded a new firmware, mounted a fresh roll of PLA and now I wanted to give it a try to see if I am even close to print something (without Z-Probe). BUT The filament is not coming out of the nozzle. Its just dripping ever so slightly, never ever enough to draw a line or so. The extruder motor is just stuttering because the plby MrPCatt - Delta Machines
Hello everybody, I also purchased this kit. Unfortunately before I found this thread. I wouldn't if I had seen all the problems before. After a lot of pain mounting and cabling the thing together with its useless manual its finally done with a lot of help from this thread I used all parts provided in the kit and grinded down the rods so they move freely and don't bound and jam to each other andby MrPCatt - Delta Machines