Hello Folks, Been away from this forum for a while, but my Sintron Kossel is still doing great. Yesterday, I was at my local MicroCenter, and happened to see this new "tiny" delta from SeeMeeCNC. They have called it "Eris". I always wanted to get a Rostock Max V2.. while it was not a funding problem, the problem I was having was to find a place to keep it. I already have 2 printers. But thby gkr - Delta Machines
Thank you for all your input/comments. It is much appreciated. Regards.by gkr - Delta Machines
Hello Experts, Since the current topic appears to be related to calibration... I never got the Auto-Z-Probe to work properly, and had a few instances when the z-probe unexpectedly engaged in the middle of a print. So, when I switched over to the E3D Hot-end, I removed the Z-probe altogether, and ended up manually calibrating the print-bed (mounted on springs) as much as I could. Now afterby gkr - Delta Machines
Hello xile6, Quotexile6 And yes if your lifting on one tower and grinding into the bed at another. Then your calibration is off. I spend a lot of time trying to use auto and calcs. But in the end manual calibration and test prints work. Can you please share further details how you did the manual calibration? Thanks.by gkr - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper When printing pla, outdoor painters tape works much better compared to kapton. You only need kapton for the high temperatures that ABS require of the bed That second that. All I'm using is blue painters tape on the aluminum-bed, with a thin layer of Elmers glue-stick (applied just prior to the start of my prints), and I'm getting great results. I'm not even heating the bed.by gkr - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian These ones work. You need one with an M6 thread, and sized to fit 4mm diameter tube. Thanks, Nebbian.by gkr - Delta Machines
Thank you, hacker. The one thing I wanted to mention is that the connector that E3D provides to connect the PTFE tube to the extruder motor, won't fit the extruder provided by Sintron. And I had trouble getting the ones out of the tubing that came with the Sintron hot-end. So although I would have preferred to use the tube that came with the E3D, I was unable to do so, and ended up reusing theby gkr - Delta Machines
Hello Everyone, So, I finally got my E3Dv6-Lite Hot-end assembled and installed. Also, took the opportunity to clean up all of the wiring from before. Getting very good results, and I'm very pleased with the way the prints look now. Just thought I'd share my experience. Thanks.by gkr - Delta Machines
Hello Noitome, QuoteNoitome I am unable to find 1.0.6 but have already tried 1.0.5. Also I tried following the troubleshooting duide and it got me taking off the mega and trying the blink script without anything attached. That worked. Though now I have reattached everything the LCD doesn't display anything anymore, it goes on but no text whatsoever. I have pressed the reset button on the mega, bby gkr - Delta Machines
I'm using Arduino version 1.0.6 (rather old), but works fine.by gkr - Delta Machines
Quotehacker Quotegkr Hello hacker, You may still upload the Z-probe holder design, so I can try and add that functionality, once I'm up and running with this new e3d hot-end. Thanks. Sure, here it goes: it also has an arm for attaching circular duct (linked from the description) in case you want one. Thanks, hacker. Much appreciated.by gkr - Delta Machines
Hello Experts, Is there any guideline or tips on adjusting the tension screw on the extruder. How does one know if it is too tight or too loose, but just right. Any tips would be appreciated. Regards.by gkr - Delta Machines
Hello hacker, You may still upload the Z-probe holder design, so I can try and add that functionality, once I'm up and running with this new e3d hot-end. Thanks.by gkr - Delta Machines
I'm not using the Z-probe.by gkr - Delta Machines
Thanks, GrAndAG for the Marlin firmwares. BTW, I have assembled a e3D Lite hot-end as per these instructions: Anything, I need to worry about, or make sure I need take care of, prior to/or during the swap-out, before I can start printing with it? I know, I need to change the following in the Marlin Config.h, and reload the firmware: Reconfigure your firmware for the Semitec 104GT2 thermistorby gkr - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG Mine settings is: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 95.2} And yes, I measured it on "cold extrusion". It's perfectly provides 100mm of filament for me if I request 100mm. So, the default Sontron's "95" is correct in general. But I'm printing with 92% fillrate, even if my filament diameter is 1.75 +-0.02 (also measured). I get better results if it's underextruded a bby gkr - Delta Machines
Thank you for the super-fast response, Tha-Reaper and hacker. Much appreciated.by gkr - Delta Machines
Hello Hacker, Can you please describe the process you are using to measure the E-Steps? Regards.by gkr - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG Quotegkr Hello GrAndAG, QuoteGrAndAG Hmm... Tried both 1.1.7 and 1.2.9. And could not find any significant differences in printing results. Both of them produce good g-code. Do you mind posting a dump of the "full" Slic3r config from your 1.1.7 setup? I would like to compare a few things with what I have. Much appreciated. Regards. Configs for both Slic3r versions are attachedby gkr - Delta Machines
GrAndAG - Thank you for the Slic3r configs.by gkr - Delta Machines
Hello GrAndAG, QuoteGrAndAG Hmm... Tried both 1.1.7 and 1.2.9. And could not find any significant differences in printing results. Both of them produce good g-code. Do you mind posting a dump of the "full" Slic3r config from your 1.1.7 setup? I would like to compare a few things with what I have. Much appreciated. Regards.by gkr - Delta Machines
Hello HaGeEm, GrAndAG, Tha_Reaper, and hacker: Your expert opinions were invaluable. Much appreciated again!! 1. Printed a object-fan-shroud (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:451667). 2. Removed the Sintron supplied 40mm fan from the old hacked up heat-sink fan-mount (sitting idle), and attached it to the newly printed object fan-shroud. It fit perfectly and onto the J-Head mount. See pics atby gkr - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG Hmm... Tried both 1.1.7 and 1.2.9. And could not find any significant differences in printing results. Both of them produce good g-code. ... Currently, my cooling setup looks as the following: Thanks for the update and the pictures, of your cooling setup. I'm currently printing this Object-fan-shroud (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:451667) to try out. I believe it should fiby gkr - Delta Machines
Hello DRTak, Forgot to mention one more thing in my previous post. As was mentioned in one of the earlier pages on this thread, try using Slic3r 1.1.7 (if you are not already using it). Initially after my printer build, I happened to download the latest 1.2.9 version, and I had all sorts of issues, with my prints. That lead me on the wrong track, trying to find issues with the printer (like extby gkr - Delta Machines
Hello DRTak, >>Thanks DC42. Ill get working on posting some picks of my prints. From my understanding and experience, especially for bridging, the plastic needs to cool fast. If not, it might droop and sag. So, having an object fan will definitely help. That being said, like DC42 has indicated - slicr3r settings, hot-end temperature, filament quality, all have a role to play. I myself dby gkr - Delta Machines
So, I tried a few prints with the newly installed fan-shroud/mount this afternoon, and I must say, I'm getting very good prints. Also, I checked the temperature of the heat-sink barrel (on the exposed-side) while the above prints were on-going, using an infrared thermometer, and it comes out to around 25 deg C. When prior to, and after the print completed and everything returned to room-tempby gkr - Delta Machines
Hi Tha_Reaper: For (1) the customer did not allow me to go to 24mm. The minimum I could set it to was 25mm for the fanscrew, in the customizer. Also, after my print was finished, I placed a 30mm fan on the finished print, and the holes match up perfectly. For (2), so far, I haven't seen any problems. Been using it for about 10days. If anything, in the last 10days or so, my print quality has actby gkr - Delta Machines
Hello Tha_Reaper, Yes, using the 30mm fan in this case appears to be most elegant with the best results. I fixed the hole problem (with the fanscrew = 25mm), created a new customized part, printed it, and tested the fit on my spare sintron hot-end, and it fits perfectly. Please note that I also had to change the "length=14", after I updated the fanscrew option. There's the new thingiverse linkby gkr - Delta Machines
Hi GrAndAG, Good catch!! Thanks for pointing that out. Yes, the distance between the center of the mounting holes is 24mm. I knew I did something wrong, but it got late yesterday, and I was too eager to install the newly made fan-mount and test it out. I will make the change later today and see if that fixes it. Regards.by gkr - Delta Machines
Hi Nebbian, Sorry about that. I forgot to mention here that I customized it for a 30mm fan. Since the finned part of the heat-sink, where the fan-mount clips onto is 26mm, a 30mm fan just feels perfect. The e3d lite that I got, ships with a 30mm fan too. The smaller fan, and smaller the mount, I figured things will be lighter as well. Also, since there are no gaps on the top or bottom of the fanby gkr - Delta Machines