Looks like it started working after i reduced the printing segment/s from 180 to 100. I printed for almost 3 years with 180 and didn't had any problems. I don't understand why it would be a problem now. But it work with the new 100 segments/s setting.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
I replaced the PSU, then RAMPS 1.4 and now the arduino mega... and it's the same.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
YES, i have old files on SD card and they still work. I'm not sorry i changed the PSU, the fan was making a loud noise. It was good enough for a cheap 10$ PSU. And yes, same place every time. I will go for a firmware update and report back. I do have a RAMPS somewhere around here, i just have to search for it. I want to fix it and then sell it. I have to deltas with 310mm bed. So i will selby CrisCG - Delta Machines
I just installed a new PSU and it does the same thing. So much for that, i guess it's the either the arduino or the RAMPS. What do you think?by CrisCG - Delta Machines
I haven't had time to play around with it yet, just the dry run test. Yes, it does stop in the same place every time. The strange thing is that i haven't done anything to the settings in over a year now. So seems kinda strange that would happen by it's self. But i can also try that, for sure.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
Yes, a dry run eliminates the problem. I guess the simplest thing i can do is to test with another power supply. I do have another printer but it would be a pain to swap the psu, i will just buy another one and see what is what.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
Hi hercek, Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately, doesn't look like one of those kind of fails. I've had some of those at some point, but this is a bit different. The temps stay steady when the problem occurs. I always print the first layer crazy slow. And i mess around a bit with the Z babystep. I noticed that when it is going to stop the print, before it does so, the display freezes for a fby CrisCG - Delta Machines
Hi, I have a 3d printer that i made with parts from ebay, 310mm bed, arduino mega and RAMPS 1.4 with DRV8825 stepper drivers, 12V 360W power supply. I run repetier firmware with repetier-host. It's been printing fine for about 2 years. I solved everything that came up, to the point that i could just leave it printing and go and do my other things. Recently, it started randomly to have a probleby CrisCG - Delta Machines
I am getting better accuracy after loosing the screws and trying to get everything as square as possible, using a jig for spacing evenly all the sides, then tighten the screws back again. So, the secret is within the printer shape, as nebbian pointed at the beginning. Less hassle with calibration afterwards.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
Hi, i have a home made delta and i'm having trouble with valibration. The specs are: 415mm horizontal aluminium extrusions 950mm vertical aluminium extrusions 310mm SeeMeCNC bed with borosilicate glass nema 17 motors (1.5A on the cariages and 2.5A for extruder) 365mm carbon tubes with traxxas 5347 joints ramps 1.4 with repetier firmware 12v 30A power supply GT2 belts printed pla corners added sby CrisCG - Delta Machines
i have a 8mm retraction, but i had the same setting when the printer was printing just fine. I have solved the riddle. I changed the extruder, with the one from the other printer. It's a mk8, like the one i was using, but this one is smaller, 1.2A. I adjusted the current to about 1A. Completed a 1:30 h print with no problems.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
It seems that the thermistor type in the firmware wasn't coresponding with the actual thermistor i have. Changed it and now temp is ok, but i still have the same problem.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
I searched online, found a few things, but i have no idea what to change in the firmware, to have an accurate temp reading. I'm using repetier firmware. How do you calibrate it?by CrisCG - Delta Machines
Yes, both printer have about 65cm bowden tube. I checked the reading with the multimeter with thermocouple, and the reading is 165 degrees, when set at 210. So that is the source of the problem. I was sure i was going to find a lower value, everything else works fine.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
Thank you for the replies. I understand it's a crappy chineze clone, but it prints perfectly on another printer. So switching to a e3d titan, may will solve some things, but surely not this one. The filament is spot on, 1.75mm and no moisture. Also it happens with diferent brands of filament. I will measure the thermistor temps and return with an answer.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
I have a delta i buily myself. Nema 17 1.5A Extruder MK8 with Nema 17 2.5A Hotend E3D V6, 0.4mm for 1.75mm filament Arduino + Ramps 1.4 + LCD DRV8825 Stepper drivers (1.3A set current for xyz and 2A for extruder) PSU 12v 15A (180W) Traxxas 5347 with carbon fiber tubes 220mm heated alu bed, isulated with cardboard and aluminium tape. The electronics are under the bed. I have them cooled with 2x 4by CrisCG - Delta Machines
I replaced the Arduino board. It was a clone, with red LED's (typical of cloners not to respect the color of the LED's, as the red ones are much popular and cheaper), not the ussual green and yellow. RAMPS board was the same. Now i have USB connectivity. The LCD display works without connecting USB cable. And the LCD knob worked backwards, now works the right way. I had the firmware saved andby CrisCG - Delta Machines
Hi everybody, I purchased a Sintron ebay Kit 2-3 months, built that one with a few mods and work fine. But the problem with that printer, was that it couldn't use the whole 220mm bed, just 170mm, because the fans were hitting the towers. So i build another printer, 220mm bed, 200mm printable circle. I used 310mm horizontals, to give enough spacing to the towers. Built it, printed about 2 weeks,by CrisCG - Delta Machines
I agree. If it's a first build, then it's better to go with a kit. If you did it before, you can build it from scratch and that is the best way. If you have access to a 3D printer already, you can make you own custom design. I'm also building a new 3D printer. One that wil be able to use the hole 220mm bed, not just 160mm like the Sintron kit. They supply the 220mm bed, because the 170mm hexagonby CrisCG - Delta Machines
I think it might also be from the stepper motors running hot. I will install fans and i will try raising the printer on feet. Any other suggestions? Also, are ABS corners a better option?by CrisCG - Delta Machines
Oh, yes. I see it now. My bottom corners are starting to fail, they bended. The motor mounts that is. I'm going to print new corners. And i can also guess why this happened. Because i had some long prints in ABS and the bed is transfering heat to the frame, because of the Sintron provided solution of connectiong the heated bed to the frame with metal screws. The corners must have heated up and caby CrisCG - Delta Machines
Did anyone else encounter this issue? It prints ok, but it doesn't look ok for long term. I guess the belt is not tight enough. Of course, i retightned it by hand as much as i could.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak QuoteCrisCG My Sintron effector warped as well. I got a ABS effector now, with the e3d v6 hotend. CrisCG. Really yours warped too. How did you find out? Were you getting odd prints and you checked? I have ABS moulded carriages which is fine because no real heat goes there. But Im afraid to buy, print, or have ABS printed/molded effector since I am going to experiment with exotic filby CrisCG - Delta Machines
My Sintron effector warped as well. I got a ABS effector now, with the e3d v6 hotend.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
There are 2 or 3 mounts on thingiverse, you can try those. If you've bought the kit, then you have a long screw, washer and springs for the bed. There are some pictures a few pages back.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
For better precision, switch to repetier firmware with repetier host. The endstop offsets are set in steps, and you can move the carriage with 0.01mm.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
A valuable and logical explanation. Everyone can benefit from this. Thank you nebbian. I also switched to a e3d v6 hotend. You get a bonus of 2cm extra build height with the v6, compared to the sintron hotend.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
Thank you nebbian, i will try that. I changed to nozzle and now i'm back to printing. I now know what happened. I printed ABS, than switched back to PLA and heated it to 250 degrees. I guess the PLA staied too long at this temperature and got stuck in there, creating a partial clog. Is there a way to save this nozzle? Or trash can and that's it??by CrisCG - Delta Machines
Yes, i also have some 0.4 drills and i poke it from time to time. I will replace the nozzle with a new one and see what happens.by CrisCG - Delta Machines
What you're saying makes sense. I thought of something like that myself, So, i just took apart the hotend. Heated up the nozzle with a torch and cleaned it good. The upper part of the hotend looked good. The filament is comming out nice, no curling. Anything else i could do to clean the hotend?by CrisCG - Delta Machines