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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Recycled plastic formwork for construction - 3 years ago
In early 2021 I decided that I was going to try to produce formwork (for poured structures such as concrete) out of recycled plastic bricks. This was in part because I'd heard that there's timber shortages, a crisis in plastic recycling, and I always wanted to figure out what to do with my waste 3D prints. In discussions with concreters and other builders who use formwork, I was told that the resby MortarArt - green talk
Re: Documenting a printer design on reprap.org - 6 years ago
I am always impressed that you are in so ready to give good answers on nearly anything reprap related. You think it would be appropriate to structure it like that? I think that sounds like a good suggestion.by MortarArt - Developers
Documenting a printer design on reprap.org - 6 years ago
I've been developing a coreXY printer for a while now, and I think it's now at a point where it's a useful enough design to be documented for other people, but I'm not certain that Thingiverse is the place to do that. It's where I've been dumping STLs up until this point. Is it considered appropriate for someone to self-publish a printer on reprap.org, and what are the criteria that I should satiby MortarArt - Developers
Re: "Communication timeout - reset send buffer block" - Repetier-Host V1.6.1 ARGH! - 9 years ago
I'm getting the same issue. At one stage, the USB connector on my RAMBo board came loose, so I soldered on a cable. I think the issue is occurring there, after extended use has perhaps worn the soldered connection.by MortarArt - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Kossel IR ABL height inconsistency - 9 years ago
Even more curious. I tried to print again, and my hot end was further away from the bed ... about 0.5mm more I'd say. So I adjusted the config.g file's z offset, and restarted to apply the changes, and I'm back to triggering at ~0.85mm. I do it again and I'm triggering at 0.5mm.by MortarArt - Delta Machines
Re: Kossel IR ABL height inconsistency - 9 years ago
The above was after a failed print, with too much squish. Afterwards I rehomed, calibrated and got z0.2-0.3 in each position. Repeated the process again, and got the same results. This is quite baffling.by MortarArt - Delta Machines
Re: Kossel IR ABL height inconsistency - 9 years ago
Ok, so I got the following measurements by using G1 move commands to the calibration locations, after calibration. I feel like this might be a clue: G30 P0 X-73.6 Y-42.5 Z-99999 ; X tower Z1.05 G30 P1 X0 Y-85 Z-99999 ; between X and Y towers Z0.95 G30 P2 X73.6 Y-42.5 Z-99999 ; Y tower Z1.05 G30 P3 X73.6 Y20 Z-99999 ; between Y and Z towers Z0.95 G30 P4 X0 Y67 Z-99999 ; Z tower Zby MortarArt - Delta Machines
Re: Direct Drive E3D Titan extruder on Delta - 9 years ago
I thought about doing that for my Kossel, considering that I use a Volcano, and can output more volume compared to a smaller hot end, moving at the same speed.by MortarArt - Delta Machines
Re: Kossel IR ABL height inconsistency - 9 years ago
I had another look at my carriages, and there's a minute amount of play in them. I'm worried that might be the cause. Regarding consistent trigger height, I'm not entirely certain I'm measuring that correctly, but I think that the answer is yes. Trigger height is -3.3 / -3.1 Z before the ~465 reading, and -3.7 / -3.8 Z before the >500 reading. At that point, my 0.55mm feeler gauge meets frictby MortarArt - Delta Machines
Re: Kossel IR ABL height inconsistency - 9 years ago
I'm running the G32 auto-calibration routine, which I've modified, to remove the non-delta stuff: M561 ; clear any bed transform, otherwise homing may be at the wrong height G31 X0 Y0 ; don't want any probe offset for this G28 ; home the printer G30 P0 X-73.6 Y-42.5 Z-99999 ; X tower G30 P1 X0 Y-85 Z-99999 ; between X and Y towers G30 P2 X73.6 Y-42.5 Z-99999 ; Y tower G30 P3by MortarArt - Delta Machines
Kossel IR ABL height inconsistency - 9 years ago
I've been using a large Kossel with a Volcano hot end for some time now, and I just can't seem to figure out a way to get a consistent distance from the glass for my first layer. Fortunately, it doesn't matter all that much to me, for PLA prints, with 0.6-0.8mm nozzle, but it does mean that I have to watch and restart my prints around 0-3 times, even with this big margin for error. It could justby MortarArt - Delta Machines
Re: Replikeo Duet 0.6 in V- 24v input looking a little burnt. - 9 years ago
Well, I wired up a BEC just to be safe, and that works. It's a HobbyKing type with a heatsink, which is cold to the touch in operation. Pretty happy though, to not use it, and to keep it as a backup, in case the EM interference ends up an issue. I do some analog video transmission and the like, so it might come up in future. Ohhh, and thanks everyone for your help! This has been thoroughly explby MortarArt - Duet
Re: Replikeo Duet 0.6 in V- 24v input looking a little burnt. - 9 years ago
I think I'm going to try running off of the onboard regulator. The fact that Replikeo provide the additional unit, and that a few people have mentioned that they don't test it has made me wary, but I didn't come to the logical conclusion, that I too could test it!! And this would make my wiring a lot simpler.by MortarArt - Duet
Re: Replikeo Duet 0.6 in V- 24v input looking a little burnt. - 9 years ago
Oh, ok. That makes sense. Use the 5v regulator only as a 5v regulator? And what if it's still overheating? What would be the signs?by MortarArt - Duet
Re: Replikeo Duet 0.6 in V- 24v input looking a little burnt. - 9 years ago
Nono. The regulator has a 24v input, and output. As well as a separate line for 5v output. The Duet has both a 24v and a 5v input. I have the PSU connected to the regulator, then the regulator's 24v and 5v output going into the respective parts of the Duet. I thought my UBECs were rated to 6s, but I could be wrong. I'll have a look, before using them. Otherwise, I'm sure I can figure something oby MortarArt - Duet
Re: Replikeo Duet 0.6 in V- 24v input looking a little burnt. - 9 years ago
Oh, there's not smell, just a plug that's very hot to the touch, and some obvious dark patches on the green, plastic output and input plug. How to explain better. The 24-5v regulator has an input from the 24v PSU. Then it has an output, that goes straight in to the Duet's 24v input. The output, and the Duet's input are both blackened (slightly) in 2 places each, on the -v (black wire) side. Whaby MortarArt - Duet
Replikeo Duet 0.6 in V- 24v input looking a little burnt. - 9 years ago
I've been using a Replikeo Duet 0.6 a little bit now, with a regular, Ebay, adjustable LED power supply. For some reason, when moving the printer, the voltage dropped to around 16-18v, and I had to adjust it back up. I'm using the additional 5v attachment for the Duet, and the burnt (not melted) plastic is visible both on the output from the 5v attachment, and the input on the Duet. The + side ofby MortarArt - Duet
Re: Troubleshooting: Duet 0.6 always on fan blown - 9 years ago
Nevermind. My powersupply had somehow crept up to 32v, so when I adjusted it back to 24, the pins began putting out the correct amount.by MortarArt - Duet
Troubleshooting: Duet 0.6 always on fan blown - 9 years ago
When I first connected my 24v fan, to my 24v Duet 0.6, using the connectors in this image I got a melted wires and smoke, so I searched around for an alternative, and ended up plugging my fan into the FAN0 header, only to find out that this is for the part cooling fan. I've checked the 2 pins with a multimeter and it reports 1. Not 1v. Not 24v, as it should, but 1, on the left of the display. Whby MortarArt - Duet