QuoteDancer @OG I assume you are printing PLA because of the temperatures. Might it be possible you are printing top layer with extremely fine extrusion width at average speed? ( = low ammount of PLA used) Or do you even have a hotend-fan? - Is it at 100% all the time? Both things might result in heat creeping up the hotend, PLA getting to soft and thus clogging. After some more preasure somby OG - Delta Machines
I have pretty much done all of that.. what I have not tried is cura.. I checked cura's website (ultimaker or what so ever) and there was information that newest versions of cura does not support deltas (and I never really tried to look older one) I know that everything is possible but honestly must say that my skills are not on the needed level for example if I measure something and if I multby OG - Delta Machines
I use slic3r version 1.2.9 and repertier host for mac.. You are so right with this learning thing.. but if you look photos from my earlier posts you see what is the problem.. it is hard to explain with my reduced english dictionary but it seems that everything is fine and it prints quite good quality but when it starts to print surface (some times bottom layers) it under extrudes and after aby OG - Delta Machines
hi again.. I have not tried to change speed settings because I have been printing with quite a slow settings and I don't think it helps me but guess I have to do it some day.. what I have tried to do fix this problem belt tension -> no affect disassembled and asembled the hotend -> no affect (on first try it made printings more worse ) bed leveling -> no affect (but the bed is now levby OG - Delta Machines
Hi again Finally I had sometime to print this temperature tower and my opinion is that best reults are printed with temerature of 215 C first readings of the temperature tower are not the correct ones first 50 layers (markings in tower 220) are printed with temperature of 215 and next 50 layers are printed with temperature of 220 C and so on.. I am sorry that photo isn't the best possible, buby OG - Delta Machines
What is B value R value is 100k and this exact thermistor, that e3d uses, was found in marlin config.. but I hope that this issue of mine is related to hotend heating.. because I am not that skilled in bed leveling so I am affraid that that causing the issues.. got to ask now, that when we are talking about bed leveling are we talking bed's mechanical leveling so that bed is attached to frameby OG - Delta Machines
Yes I have heated bed, it is that aluminium heated bed that came with sintron's kit, but there is borosilicate glass on it (I tought that I have concave and convex surface on that aluminium one) I have tried to print with temperature of 222C and I don't know dare I raise this temperature much..(I still quite noob in 3d printing) I have heared rumors, that E3D v6 needs a bit higher temperature tby OG - Delta Machines
I figured out this slipping problem and partly solved this under extrusion problem I couldn't tight filament much enough to prevent slipping because idle bearing couldn't give much enouhg pressure against mk7 wheelgear and that happened because airtrippers frame was too close to idle bearing and bearing abrade against frame.. could I explain this more complicatedly some dremel and this is fixedby OG - Delta Machines
Do You mean that is the extruder properly mounted and does not move while extruding? if so the answer is yes.. or do you mean that is there "constant" pressure on the filament.. then answer is yes and no (simply I am not sure) I made some investigations to sort this problem out.. I have 5:1 geared extruder that is mounted to a "hercustruder", an airtripper variant. It has MK7 gearwheel that feeby OG - Delta Machines
Hi again.. I think that I need some professional help with my issues with kossel.. can someone of you pros give me a hint what could cause this "wavy under extrusion" and after that comes over extrusion.. layers before these top layers were printed fine..by OG - Delta Machines
I got to comment this a little bit QuoteSir_Death QuoteGrAndAG I can suggest buying solid state relay to connect heating bed via it. It will eliminate all problems with mosfet and fuse overheating. Much cheaper (and easier) way is to just solder a wire to the Gate Signal of the internal MOSFET and place a IRF540Z external - connect Heatbed there.... Wire from RAMPS to GATE of MOSFET "-" fromby OG - Delta Machines
I managed to get hotend nozzle open.. oh yeah.. then I remember that I never changed thermistor type in marlin for this e3dv6 printheads thermistor. So my guess is there was no enough heat and that is why my nozzle got jammed in the first place..by OG - Delta Machines
I did my bed level adjustments just like in that video but I decreased that manual z home pos value in marlin config so I could play with negative offsetby OG - Delta Machines
QuoteWibbles My bed sloped down towards the Z tower, so I am wondering whether I can lower the Z endstop 1mm, and trick the firmware. I can't test anything properly at the moment as I want to fit a glass bed and a Buildtak sheet. I think that you don't have to lower that end stop.. you can tweak the offset for that ..by OG - Delta Machines
QuoteOG does it mean that I need to change manual_z_home_pos value ? so it means I need to increase that value for example from 234 to 236 I answer to my self and others who has similar situation.. I decreased my manual_z_home_pos value by 1mm.. so 234 -> is now 233 I ran few offset calibrating rounds and between rounds I tweaked delta_smooth_offset value so I could find centre points Z0by OG - Delta Machines
does it mean that I need to change manual_z_home_pos value ? so it means I need to increase that value for example from 234 to 236by OG - Delta Machines
that is the thing I am trying to do, but for some reason I cannot set it with positive offset that's why I need to "lie" that my bed is on negative z or this is something I just don't get..by OG - Delta Machines
Have you measured bed level using vernier caliper (or what ever this tool is) from each corner ? I don't know any other method for this..by OG - Delta Machines
very sure yes but it would be easiet do like in video I posted but need to go below surface any other methods I don't know I am so newbie in 3d printing..by OG - Delta Machines
if you have gap in the center your delta radius is too small check out this video with time.. even if you won't do it like this videoby OG - Delta Machines
Hi again pros I have a litle problems with my bed leveling too.. I have put all necessary delta measurements (that know) to marlins configuration.h file I tried to do fine tuning to find out do I have all the measurements perfect.. I had bit concave print surface and I got it adjusted quite good.. or so I thought.. Now if I try to move print head for example on X-axis printhead will collideby OG - Delta Machines
I took my marlin firmware from here there is >"example configurations folder >delta>kossel mini" there is quite good example configs (configuration.h and configuration_adv.h) files that you can copy to main marlin folder.. but you still need to configurate some parameters like DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET guess you guys know these.. SJN: I eyed your configuration file and your thermistorby OG - Delta Machines
Hi again I have a problem with my kossel.. I have almost completed the building job. I have been tweaking this marlin software that I grabbed somewhere from github (I post link later so professionals can evaluate have lost track completely) I finally got lcd working and It shows that heat bed temperature is -26C so if I turn heat bed on from repertier host It won't do it due to safety featureby OG - Delta Machines
you may have to downgrade java runtime to older one.. at least if you are using macby OG - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian Insulation is a good idea. I used to use a piece of cardboard with foil tape on top, but now have upgraded to a cork tile cut to the right shape (triangular, with the corners cut off). but is it directly attached to the heated bed or is there air gap between?by OG - Delta Machines
hi again I got to ask, maybe a stupid question, but I ask it anyway How have you guys installed heat bed insulation have you attached insulation directly against heated bed or have you left some sort of air gap between insulation and heatbed?by OG - Delta Machines
Hi again.. Next I tought that it is time to assemble the carriages, but as we all know wheels and bearings are bit wobbly due to M5 screw and bearing mismatch but before I start I dip legs, that I bought for kossel, into rubber comp I needed a soda can, so time to drink some coca cola I measured 5mm wide stripes from soda can, one for every wheel. Then I cut them to right size and lengby OG - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe On my various Delta builds, I've used felt pieces cut in shape to dampen vibrations. Now I'm using printed TPU dampers, with the same result. But I'm always afraid the steppers could be mounted to loose, giving me bad results on direction changes. The best noise reduction is a silent stepper driver, like TMC2100 or RAPS128. Noise that isn't made, doesn't need to be dampened Thankby OG - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG QuoteOG someone had vibration dampers installed and I tracked down such things from ebay to my kossel So, it's worth it? Do they perform well? I ended up with 8 mm silicone leg pads. That's made my printer almost silent, just weak buzzing sound from motors. I don't know because my kossel is still under construction.. But in this video guy says that these really reduce noise. I mustby OG - Delta Machines
This sounds good QuoteSir_Death QuoteGrAndAG I can suggest buying solid state relay to connect heating bed via it. It will eliminate all problems with mosfet and fuse overheating. Much cheaper (and easier) way is to just solder a wire to the Gate Signal of the internal MOSFET and place a IRF540Z external - connect Heatbed there.... Wire from RAMPS to GATE of MOSFET "-" from Powersupply to SOURCby OG - Delta Machines