For PLA, as already mentioned, it's quite rare to exceed 210 °C. I typically print PLA between 185 and 195 °C. I also second the recommendation of an E3Dv6 extruder if you're planning to replace it. Clones can be had for relatively cheap, in the $15 to $20 range, and they have proven to be pretty reliable in my experience. You could try Gulf Coast Robotics, for instance--last I checked, they carby scndctr - Delta Machines
OP, I can enthusiastically recommend a medium / large Kossel style printer, provided you do your homework, and don't mind making a few tweaks here and there by deviating a bit from the official build manual. I've had a very positive experience with the Chinese-made BIQU Kossel Plus which has a bed diameter of 24 cm and print height of 36 cm, so it's slightly taller than the Kossel XL you linked.by scndctr - Delta Machines
Thanks for the replies, folks. It doesn't surprise me that the ideal solution would be to rework the cartridge package for 3D printing applications at the component level itself--I sure hope there are manufactureres out there looking into more robust solutions. To clarify the details of my setup, I have a Kossel-style delta machine with an E3D V6 hot-end. Since the printer's arms need to be relaby scndctr - General
Hello, I was wondering how people are implementing strain relief at the cable-to-cartridge interface on their printers, since it appears to be subject to a lot of mechanical as well as thermal stresses. I was only using a zip tie for rudimentary strain relief in my setup, and not surprisingly, the cable broke one day in the middle of a print--the failure occurred right at the interface with theby scndctr - General
Quotekyoday I have a Biqu Kossel Pro..crappy printer, I threw money unnecessarily .. selling it will be difficult What issues are you having? They might be solvable. This machine is actually very solid mechanically given the price point, and the latest Marlin firmware pairs well with the hardware.by scndctr - Delta Machines
Good question; perhaps in hindsight I ought to have at least reached out to customer support, but I ended up taking the lazy way out. That would have also allowed me to compare the quality of their E3D clone to the one I had on hand, oh well.by scndctr - Delta Machines
Sorry for posting this nearly a year later, but perhaps this info might help others considering purchasing this kit. Assuming one has some prior experience building and calibrating printers, I would definitely recommend this kit with unreserved enthusiasm--however, the usual caveats regarding the finer points of proper delta machine calibration apply to this product, as well. Perhaps I shall stby scndctr - Delta Machines
Quotetwwd Thanks Doug, I do appreciate you response to my question! I just purchased a new DELL with Windows 10! I really dislike the 10! I find it very hard to deal with on my printers. To bad my old Vista system bit the dust. I guess I just need to dig into Windows 10 and learn the system?! Thanks again, Rob You could always shrink the Windows partition, install a flavour of Linux and turn iby scndctr - Delta Machines
Sorry, I read the "2560" in your OP and assumed you had an Arduino MEGA + RAMPS 1.4 setup, but this seems to be an integrated board with a completely different pin-out; my mistake. After reviewing the schematic and the GT2560 wiki, it looks like you have the fan connected to the right port. It's possible that the signal line on your fan expects a different signal level than what the port is puttby scndctr - Prusa i3 and variants
Honestly, given how tricky it can be to get the first layer to stick, I think that having a part stuck to the bed a bit too well is an acceptable trade-off or overcorrection, if you will. I recommend investing in a good part chisel with a very thin edge and flat blade--gently work it under the finished part and pry it off. It requires some patience to remove a part that is stuck fast to the bedby scndctr - Prusa i3 and variants
Yup, moral of the story: Always analyse the STL in Repetier Host or your preferred slicer to check the dimensions, and then compare with the output.by scndctr - Prusa i3 and variants
The part cooling fan ought to be connected to the D9 terminal on the RAMPS board, and should be rated at 12 V. Power and GND connections only; leave the signal pin on the fan floating. What do you mean by the PWM port? Did you connect it to one of the servo headers on the RAMPS board? Those only provide 5 V outputs. If you could attach a photo or schematic that might help. Don't connect any motoby scndctr - Prusa i3 and variants
Try raising the Z-offset, i.e., lift the Z-axis home position of the extruder + nozzle assembly a bit further up relative to the bed. These machines do require periodic recalibration and tuning, so it could just be that the nozzle dropped too close to the bed over time and needs to be lifted up slightly.by scndctr - Prusa i3 and variants
Try raising the Z-axis home offset to see if that solves the extrusion problem first--the nozzle might be getting blocked if it's too close to the bed initially. If the extruder steps continue being inconsistent, you could address this issue next.by scndctr - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteStuah Hey everybody, Beginner here, I just finished setting up my i3 a few days ago. After configuring everything in Repetier Host in accordance with the RepRap Guru configuration guide, I tried to print a simple Lego brick, but no PLA was extruded. I cancelled the print and tried using the manual controls for the extruder, which seems to work fine, although it doesn't always extrude the coby scndctr - Prusa i3 and variants