Good to hear. Should you ever happen to discover what the problem was. I'd very much like to learn what to cause a different speed in one direction only. I must misunderstand when the delta kinematics are applied.by jcs - Delta Machines
Frankly, I don't see how what you describe is possible. Are you really running a delta printer rather than a cartesian? Post the model of your printer please. Assuming you do have a delta, the max acceleration is wrong the X,Y, and Z values should all be the same.by jcs - Delta Machines
You can install Marlin, so I see no reason it wouldn't work fine on a delta.by jcs - Delta Machines
The escher3 site has a "wizard" for delta parameters that is firmware agnostic. I don't know if the site has any other information. If you use the SKR board, your best choice is Marlin and then G33, unless you want to add a raspberry Pi to the SKR board and go with Klipper. Alternatively, you could go for a Duet (for more money). Klipper and Duet both have delta calibration too, so rough measureby jcs - Delta Machines
I assume you have a bed sensor on your delta. If you can't find the Folgertech specs, you can start by just measuring the dimensions the best you can. Then, If you intend to use Marlin, you can use delta calibration, G33. www.escher3.com has a great calibration aid and there are many sources that walk you through calibration.by jcs - Delta Machines
The curie temperature would only be an issue if you were using neodymium magnets. Samarium-cobalt magnets (which I use) have a curie temp of about 350 C, if I recall correctly. If you're talking about the flexible magnet material, the curie temp is quite high but the substrate is only good to about 100 C which is what limits its use.by jcs - Delta Machines
Does it mirror left - right or front - back? I don't think I can be of further help, I've never used Duet firmware; but I think it has a configuration for left or right coordinate system which could well be your problem.by jcs - Delta Machines
I'm probably not going to tell you anything you don't know about reducing stringing but: As you indicated, bowden tube as short as is reasonable. I find capricorn tubing helps. Increase retraction. Of course going too far will risk jams. Make sure your pla(?) is dry. Try different filament. If you try (for instance): G1 x-50 y0 z20 does it go to your left when facing the printer?by jcs - Delta Machines
I have an idea what may be going on. Make sure you are using MAX endstops and that min endstops are disabled. If you are currently using min endstops, switch them and ALSO invert all the motors. I'm making a guess based on whats happening and reading between the lines some comments you made at the beginning. So this may be totally off.by jcs - Delta Machines
Inverting all motors was expected. I think part of your confusion is the nomenclature when using a delta. X, Y, and Z should be thought of as left, right, and back when referring to axes, e.g. motors and endstops. On the other hand, Z height (for example) is indeed what one thinks of as Z. As leadinglights indicates, we need more info on exactly what happens (or doesn't) after homing.by jcs - Delta Machines
Nice! I think you'll find that PLA is stiffer than PETG. A carbon-fiber filled filament would be stiffer if you've got the nozzle for it. The PLA might not stand up to the heat from the stepper motors long term though. I've successfully used heat sinks on the steppers in a similar situation.by jcs - Delta Machines
Mike(?), It shouldn't be going down first. We've made suggestions for fixing or diagnosing this. If you don't answer our questions, how can we help?by jcs - Delta Machines
I second leadinglights. But are you sure you have it set to "Delta" in the configuration? It kinda sounds like you're describing what would happen if it were set to cartesian.by jcs - Delta Machines
So with Repetier you're not having any problem???by jcs - Delta Machines
I assume you mean the app on the website that you use to configure Repetier. I also assume it goes straight up and down and that you inverted X, Y, and Z. You have to download the configuration file. Use that to replace the existing one and recompile using the Arduino ISP. Then use the ISP to reprogram the controller board. Make sure you don't get an error message at this step. It's easy for anby jcs - Delta Machines
Quoterq3 Magnetically, there two issues with using a steel cup. The side of the cup stuck to the magnet gets the opposite pole induced into it. If the magnet face is, say, north, the sticking face of the steel cup is south. Of course, the other face of the cup is then north, and the ball is trying to stick to a north faced steel cup with a north faced magnet just under it. Not good. Anyone who hby jcs - Delta Machines
Just for anyone that's interested, I used the same geometry as leadinglights shows except I used spherical magnets as well, instead of steel balls. Along with the aforementioned mouse tape that works fine with no shifting. Of course you have to make sure the magnetic poles are optimally aligned.by jcs - Delta Machines
I use "mouse tape" on mine. It's thin adhesive teflon tape and lasts for years.by jcs - Delta Machines
Second the pronterface test. If that works, check the cables, including entirely swapping left cable and right cable to see if the symptoms remain the same. A bad display can give those symptoms. I once replaced just the display (I had one on hand) to fix it, but you'll want a new smart controller.by jcs - Delta Machines
If you didn't change anything at all, could it be the room you're printing in is much colder? (like winter in your garage) How does the temperature behave before it fails? Does the temperature rise steadily or does it stop or even glitch? It's a good idea to have spare thermistors and heating elements, so if you don't already have them I'd order spares (or a replacement hot-end). Then you canby jcs - Delta Machines
I'm suggesting that G33 will give numbers that don't match the physical dimensions IF it is using incorrect parameters that it doesn't adjust -- such as rod length. I'm not suggesting you shouldn't use G33, just that it can't fix everything if it is working with incorrect parameters and that might result in what you are seeing. That said, is true that I suspect you may not need g33; the problemby jcs - Delta Machines
(head slap!) Oh, you said you ran G33! The auto calibration would try to compensate for any errors which would make the bed look flat at the expense of dimensional accuracy if some of the parameters are off. Based on what you have said so far, I say the rod length is off. I suggest you remeasure the rod length on both printers and compare them with the values in the firmware on each machine.by jcs - Delta Machines
Are you sure the problem isn't in your slicer? I once accidentally scaled a print when slicing. The only things I can think of that would affect Z printing but not Z movement wouldn't make X and Y larger.by jcs - Delta Machines
You'll probably have to find someone with that printer and a rumba board, so your chances are not good. I certainly can't help. I've only set up marlin once so I'm no expert. Not to mention I wouldn't try without the printer on hand for testing. Perhaps you could use Repetier. There is an on-line configuration tool that you can use. It's prettly thoroughly explained so you might find you canby jcs - Delta Machines
I'm not sure what exactly you're looking for, someone to configure Marlin for that printer? If it's not too late, I'd earnestly recommend a 32-bit board instead of the Rumba. Also, I hope you have some experience. 3 color/material on a delta isn't going to be easy. I'd get it running as a single extruder then dual before attempting a 3 extruder system.by jcs - Delta Machines
No, I've never measured the force. My gut feel, based on my professional experience with magnetic devices, is that it is probably a bit less than the 13mm magnets without (I presume) the additional magnets in the arm. A while back I rebuilt my original rostock and I used the same design which should tell you what I think of it. I've never had an arm come loose except in the case of a major heby jcs - Delta Machines
I've changed a number of things on my printer during the last 5 years, so printing quality has only improved slightly. During that entire time I haven't replaced the teflon tape. My printing speed is mostly 60mm/s but if time is an issue I print at 90mm/s. Travel speed has been set to 200 - 300 mm/s as the mood strikes me when setting up a slicer. I use "CS Hyde PTFE Mouse Tape" (see amazon) tby jcs - Delta Machines
I don't know how you're keeping the teflon sheets in place; but if it helps, CS Hyde mouse tape is 0.1mm or a little less and adhesive backed. It's 1/2" wide which will probably work for you. I've been using that for about 5 years. BTW I don't think I came up with the idea independently but I don't remember. Even 0.1mm will reduce the magnetic force, perhaps more than you would expect; but I'mby jcs - Delta Machines
I have always made my own magnetic arms so I'm not sure about commercial models; but I use "mouse tape" on mine. That is thin, adhesive-backed ptfe tape. It practically eliminates all friction (at least on my design), at the cost of a small reduction in holding force.by jcs - Delta Machines
I had the same problem once (Repetier. etc.). I never was able to diagnose it; but printing from SD card worked.by jcs - Delta Machines