Have you verified that the arms are the exact same length? And that the vertical riders have the exact same measurements?by Gadgetman - Delta Machines
These are the ones I'm using, and they default to 'Mixed decay', but just by adding a tiny blob it will switch to Fast Decay. They're a bit more expensive than the regular Polulus, but they can do 1/128 microstepping and 2.2A, and even has a chip with the heat dissipation pad on top, so it's easy to mount the heatsink correctly. (A lot of drivers use chips with the pad on the bottom, but stillby Gadgetman - Delta Machines
I got the heater cartridges today. Rmoved the old one, and cut the wires of the new and soldered on the banana plugs. (There's a molex 2pin plug on the new cartridge, at almost exactly the spot I wanted to cut the wires, so I cut above that, and installed the plugs. Keeping the molex means I don't have to do anything to the spare cartridge) Getting years old thrmal paste off of the heater blocby Gadgetman - Delta Machines
I've been googling your printer... It's made of 20x20 aluminium profiles with plastic parts in the corners? Maybe this one? It weighs 7Kg and has a build area of 1800 diameter, 300mm height. My Overlord weighs 12Kg... Most of that extra weight is in the aluminium extrusions... I think the stiffness of the frame is going to be the limiting factor in the print quality/print speed issue, sby Gadgetman - Delta Machines
That doesn't look all that much like a photo...by Gadgetman - Delta Machines
Where is the endstop switch mounted? Could we have a photo of the parts 'in location'?by Gadgetman - Delta Machines
The gap under the edges is about 10mm, and from the edge and up to the bottom plate there's another 20mm. And there's cutouts in the bottom plate. I don't want to ever experience that it misses steps because of thermal issues. Before that becomes an issue it will have to run hard, for a long time. That means a massive, tall print, and a lot of wasted filament. (The Overlord Pro can print 2by Gadgetman - Delta Machines
Why do you have the X/Y/Z Min endstops anyway? If you set them to match that the nozzle touches the bed in the middle, it won't be able to print towards the edges, and if you set them to match when the nozle is at the outer limit, it will be able to 'bottom out' in the middle of the print bed.by Gadgetman - Delta Machines
Just about everything is hooked up now, except the hot-end thermistor. But the heater cartridge is caput, so I can't test that, yet. Incidentally, the original heater cartridge wires have 2mm banana plugs soldered on, so I'm saving those. I actually think I'll track down a few of those to prep the spare cartridge with. And if I can find some female connectors also, I'll do the same on my WanHby Gadgetman - Delta Machines
Seems my Overlord is fitted with PTCs in the hot end. So I just ordered a few regular 100K thermistors. (I believe in having a few spares) I also took the liberty of ordering a couple of 24V / 60W heater cartridges for it...by Gadgetman - Delta Machines
Quotehercek If one fan is cooling heat-break on the hotend then that is the one which should run at full throttle all the time. The fan which is supposed to cool the printed part is the one which speed can be controlled from the firmware/gcode. Yes, I already figured that out. The issue now is to find out which wires are what. Oh, and figure out if the 12V output on the Azteeg is capable of poby Gadgetman - Delta Machines
The Azteeg board is mounted. I grabbed some nylon standoffs(male/female version; nut in one end, bolt in the other.) and use short ones as bolts to secure longer ones on the underside of the board, dipped the ends in 'Machinists blue'(pretty close to the ink in a regular Bic or other ball-ppoint pen) and carefully set it down where I wanted it. Removed it, then drilled and tapped holes where theby Gadgetman - Delta Machines
Quotehercek Ok, if by A=0 you meant where is zero position on delta coordinate A, then it is at the heat bed level. Delta coordinates have 0 at the bed level and maximum (printer height) at the max endstop level; i.e. delta coordinates have maximum values after homing. Thanks! For one reason or other that kind of info is very, very hard to find anywhere.by Gadgetman - Delta Machines
Thanks. The columns are labelled Alpha, Beta, Gamma in Smoothieware, A,B,C in some other firmwares, and X,Y,Z in yet others. (Naming the columns Z,Y,Z is wrong if you ask me, as that's the coordinates we want the head to move by, and where usually X=0/Y=0/Z=0 is at the lower lefthand front corner of a print bed. Moving to Z=2 on a cartesian printer just means stepping the motor on the Z-axis,by Gadgetman - Delta Machines
The picture show the base of my Overlord. All the wiring has been tagged. After the picture was taken I removed the battery and SD-card reader, unplugged the controller card and removed it, and cut the plugs off the ends of the motor wiring and crimped on ferrules. I still need to cut off the connectors for the sensor wiring and replace them with Dupont plugs. And I need to fab some mounts foby Gadgetman - Delta Machines
Hi folks! Quick notice about background; I'm an IT professional(User support, server and networking, even printers... ) and have been into 3D work since 2011 or so... First printer was a Prusa Mendel that never really worked as it should. (I built a lot of it myself. Even soldered the RAMPS card myself. Never again... ) My second printer was the DreamMaker Overlord Pro(Black Kickstarter editionby Gadgetman - Delta Machines