- 14 years agobanthafodder7400 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @ Idolcracher > > Finally posted the update to my blog after getting > all my parts in place and the final designs done. > If you look at the bottom of post titles "Farming > meets Engineering" you will see one of my parts > during the print with a "brim" on it. Awesome man! I like your Bloby Idolcrasher - General
- 14 years agoI look at this as an "off-label" use of the Slic3r skirt function. I do indeed use the skirt function to make the brim. The skirt function has been used primarily as a means to prime the nozzle; Most people do not use the skirt function to fight warping. Most people do not use a skirt 15 loops thick attached to to the object I stumbled upon this by trial and error; and it looks like you andby Idolcrasher - General
The warping and curling issues with Nylon can be fixed by printing with a brim! Check out my post on printing with a "brim" here: I print with a 1.7mm filament and have a 0.3mm nozzel. I am in the middle of moving right now, but I would love a sample of the "printable nylon" filament. I bet I can print with it and defeat warping with the material as well! Would anyone be willing to sendby Idolcrasher - General
- 14 years ago@banthafodder Very cool. Glad it helped your print! I would love to see a pic when your object is ready for public consumptionby Idolcrasher - General
- 14 years agoWhat name do you gents like better? "The Brim" or "The Snowshoe"?by Idolcrasher - General
Check my post on defeating curling! Cure For The Common Curlingby Idolcrasher - General
- 14 years ago@purple kerbie, it makes my day to know it helped your print! That's great man!by Idolcrasher - General
- 14 years agoGlad you gents found it useful! I have been using cheap Chinese filament (it lifts terribly even on hot glass) I needed to defeat some big lift/warp/curling troubles. So after two weeks of frustration, I reverted from a glass plate back to a blue tape surface and came up with "the brim" The adhesion is VERY strong with this method. It was the use of cheap filament that drove me to this; butby Idolcrasher - General
You could try adding a "brim" to your prints to stop curling tooby Idolcrasher - General
- 14 years agoHere is a way to defeat curling/warping in your prints. The term might be taken, but I call it a "Brim." If anyone wants to coin a new term for this, make a suggestion Using the program Slic3r I add a "skirt" of 5 to 15 loops at a "zero" millimeter distance from the object I am printing. This adds a brim (like a cowboy hat ) that keeps the object "spot welded" to the plate and absoluby Idolcrasher - General
Very cool. Conductive ABS sounds pretty crazy! Let us know what you come up withby Idolcrasher - General
Sounds like fun I may take a swing at it!by Idolcrasher - Competitions
Cheap printing may finally be at hand, now that this cheap filament is working for me. Now that I can actually print with this stuff, I can take advantage of the higher "glassing" temp this plastic appears to have. It hardens very quickly once it is out of the extruder, this helps make nice sharp prints.by Idolcrasher - General
I put blue painters tape on tope of my glass plate and am getting excellent adhesion now! I suffered through this for weeks! Putting the blue painters tape on top of the glass has solved all of my problems with this Chinese filament. Victory!by Idolcrasher - General
Good Day All, Does anyone know if "RepRaper" the Chinese plastic filament seller is still in business? I can't seem to find a working link to the site anymore. I bought 5 KG of PLA from them for a crazy cheap price. The only real problem with the filament is that it is a real pain to get the first layer to stick. Anyone have any recomendations for me? I can get Faberdashery filament to stby Idolcrasher - General
- 14 years agoHi all, I will see if I can post some pictures. After visualizing the RepRapPro Huxley STLs I was printing in KISSlicer, I can plainly see that the "rounded" edges are actually stubbly little sharp lines. My printer was simply following these sharp little edges. I would love to try Marlin or Sprinter V2; but I am using the RepRapPro Melzi board and I am not sure how compatable this board is wiby Idolcrasher - Printing
- 14 years agoHi all, I have been on a calibration crusade, printing night and day all using all kinds of settings on all kinds of objects. My machine has started to "jitter" quite predictably and repeatably while drawing arcs and circles… This causes a ribbed pattern on the outside of all rounded and circular objects. This problem seems to get worse as I drop my width/height ratio. (I could be wrong, Iby Idolcrasher - Printing
Thanks yo your advice, I have gotten a couple of successful prints! You the man! Now to keep experimentingby Idolcrasher - General
Hey Brother, Thanks for the advice much. I appreciate your thoughts. Per your advice, I grabbed my big fan and am building another companion cube... I need one to keep me company I would have played with the temp, I had already started my print when I saw your post... Doh! Ah well. I will play with the temps for sure. The Prints that were getting drug on were PLA printing at 205C; do you tby Idolcrasher - General
Hi All, I am a brand new RepRapper. I just put together a Huxley. I got a kit from RepRapPro. I thought I had successfully calibrated the machine, having successfully printed some nice calibration cubes, but I have run into a difficult problem! My extruder nozel starts to rub/drag against the objcet it is printing. The still hot pliable form squishes and bends as the extruder continues to cby Idolcrasher - General
- 14 years agoHi Everyone, The inventor of the RepRap and Godfather of DIY 3D Printing, Adrian Bowyer, just posted a video online about his new company selling RepRap machines. See it here: Consider supporting his Indie GoGo campaign and receiving a RepRap machine for Christmas! Happy Printing, -IdolCrasherby Idolcrasher - General
Those were my thoughts when I decided to build one. While I will build scratch RepRaps in the future (for friends & prototypes), I wanted to start with a well made known good design.by Idolcrasher - General
A totally fair statement that there are hurdles to overcome. Big hurdles if this printing material is supposed to be cheap too. I think a lot of trial and error might be in store for the person attempting to create such a filament. It is fun to think that this would be a quest for the perfect filament, much the same way Edison was looking for the perfect filament for his light bulb. There mayby Idolcrasher - General
I have an idea for a revolutionary RepRap printing material. I call it Paramagnetic Filament. In blunt terms, it would be a plastic filament, impregnated with a ferrofluid, which is electrically conductive and can be effected by a magnetic field. It can also be used to print permanent magnets if printed in the presence of a strong magnetic field. Let me explain the idea behind the filament anby Idolcrasher - General
Adrian Bowyer giving a clever speech about the reprapby Idolcrasher - General
You can build one for less for sure. Can you build one of this quality for less? We shall see when she arrives! Hopefully, the integrated SD card reader, and the convinience of starting off with a nice RepRap before doing scratch builds is wrth the entry fee. The emaker videos on YouTube demo a high quality machine making high quality prints. I think going this route will get me a quality maby Idolcrasher - General
Gents, I just ordered a RepRap printer from RepRapPro, Adrian Bower's new company. Adrian Bower, the actual inventor of the opensource RepRap Device, just joined forces with the eMaker guy(s) to produce and sell RepRap machines. RepRapPro is the name of their Newley founded company. I contributed $675 to the RepRapPro on indiegogo.com, and in turn they will be sending me a RepRapPro Huxley macby Idolcrasher - General