anybody tried abs sheet as build platform instead of glass???by ekaggrat - Reprappers
@ appdev007 could you post some pics of your wavy prints.. I suspect i am having a similar problem with my 30A chinese psu but not so sevear... thanksby ekaggrat - Reprappers
i have tried superglue on kypton tape before i got abs juice.. It works really well but is a health hazard if you turn on the hot bed.... The gas emitted from the hot bed will cause a burning sensation in your eyes.. also the super glue works too well and is hard to take the parts out .... I used to tear the kypton tape almost everytime i pulled the parts out .. And i used it only to glue the corby ekaggrat - Reprappers
are the claims of the printer claiming to be a full color printer real ? if so how have they achieved it using fdm technology. I always thought that it was nearly impossible to be able to get plastic to mix to get full color print!!!!by ekaggrat - Reprappers
@ chetan 3d printers are not good for production at a industrial scale.. They are good for prototyping and producing very small number of parts... @ richard you cant even build a 3d printer at that cost as the majority of the cost is in the electronics and motors..... i work in china ( i am from india ) and have built a prusa from parts so even here it is not possible to do it at that cost leby ekaggrat - India RUG
i have used two color samples of high impact polystyrene in my prusa i2 which has a standard j-head hotend... the material extrudes better than abs and has a better finish quality ....Also it melts at the same temperature as abs the only downside is that it is not as sticky as abs so sometimes it starts lifting up at corners ... but besides that it is a very good material ..by ekaggrat - Polymer Working Group
the voltage rating of the steppers dont matter so much... anything between 2.8v - 30v would be fineby ekaggrat - Reprappers
i tried the felt idea and the bolt tightening idea... both failed... next i will be trying a filament puller like the one on the UP printer... hope that works else back to 3mm...by ekaggrat - Reprappers
Hi, I have been using my prusa i2 for quite sometime now and mange to get decent prints .. over time i have ironed out most of the issues causing a print faliure .. and now most of the time get decent prints .. but the only problem that i have not been able to solve is the filament entanglement issue... With 3 mm filament it is not a issue but with 1.75 mm filament 30-40% of my prints end up inby ekaggrat - Reprappers
hi flyingbird it is a good effort but a lot of needed to be done before doing this... you should look at printrbot go and ben hecks suitcase printer for inspiration ... also look at corexy.... I think for a engineering student project it is pathetic and i woud expect more from a person of your institute...by ekaggrat - India RUG
right now i am working in beijing so getting the board shipped here would be expensive. It would be easiler for me to build the board... thanks anywaysby ekaggrat - Controllers
where can i find the sanguish eagle files?by ekaggrat - Controllers
where can i find the eagle files for sanguish?by ekaggrat - Controllers
hi, What is a better extruder for a 1.75mm filament.. a mk7 style direct drive nema 17 motor or a wades type geared extruder? also what is the maximum feed rate possible with a mk7 extruder?by ekaggrat - Reprappers
i am currently using a extruder with 3mm filament. I wanted to shift to a bowden setup to convert to dual extrusion,,, I was wondering which filament is better for bowden extruder, i have seen most of the people using 1.75mm for this setup.. is 3mm not good for a bowden extruder?by ekaggrat - Reprappers
hi, i was designing a printer on a similar concept of the cantilevered y axis... i would like to know is how much does the y axis flex during its movement? is it better of worse than a standard prusa?by ekaggrat - General New Machines Topics
@martinprice2004 thanks for the insight on MIM ... was looking for something like this.....by ekaggrat - Reprappers
@peteD i was thinking something like on the lines of metal clay that is used by jewelers... And i was not aware of the shrinkage problem....how much would a part shrink after curing?by ekaggrat - Reprappers
after seeing the laywood filament and finding a paper which said that it is basically made by mixing wooden powder with pla powder and extruding the mix , i was wondering if the same would be possible for metal powder?? i am no expert in metallurgy, it was just a thought that came to my mind... any comments???by ekaggrat - Reprappers
max6675 doesn't work well with ramps and marlin.... i only managed to get it to work with saguinololu and marlin.... also it wont work with a lcd attached.... i have made my prusa run with both a thermocouple and a thermistor and i didn't find any difference in the print quality so i shifted back to a thermistor as it works well with all the firmwares and also they are cheap....by ekaggrat - Reprappers
i have a working prusa mendel v2 ....in beijing right now.....by ekaggrat - China, Beijing RepRap User Group
@simono71 your temperature reading is off ... i had the same problem and i measured my temperature with another thermocouple attached to my hot end ... it would be good if you can do that.... if not just raising the temperature 10 degrees and retry extruding ... and keep raising till your extrusion is smooth but not burnt and brown....by ekaggrat - General
@ archistrong initially i used two nuts with a spring to avoid backlash... but then that setup was causing a lot of z wobble... so to remove that i used a z isolator nut and removed the top nut.... if you think it is backlash my next step would be to use acme screws ... thats all that is left to do till now..... i have tried all the z couplers out there and in the end the best results wereby ekaggrat - Reprappers
i am using 4 mm threaded rods for the z axis and nut isolators .... also i am using linear bearings on the z axis.... but i am still getting banding.... any ideas what is the issueby ekaggrat - Reprappers
i did the pid autotune and got the temperature within 2 degrees + - fluctuation ...... but i am still getting the banding... one interesting thing is that the line disappear on objects with no infill .....by ekaggrat - Reprappers
@ Polygonhell so finally how did you solve the issue... ??? i am facing a simiar problem and cant seem to find a solution..... also what problem do the isolators bring up as you had mentioned???by ekaggrat - Reprappers
hi,, i am getting horizontal lines in my prints inspite of getting rid of my z wobble... i cant seem to figure out what the problem is.. i have even tighten my x and y belts but the bands remain....by ekaggrat - Reprappers
i have solved it for now ... i think it was because of the thermistor pcb track running too close to the mosfet... changed that and now the problem is goneby ekaggrat - Controllers
hi i have a strange problem with my thermistor... when the thermistor approaches the target temperature and is 5 - 3 degrees close to it, it suddenly jumps its value by 10 to 20 degrees... the value that it displays then is false and because of that the heater stops heating to achieve the target temperature.... this makes the whole temperature graph oscillate because it never achieves the targetby ekaggrat - Controllers
did you manage to solve the problem... because i have a similar issue..by ekaggrat - RAMPS Electronics