Anybody from Japan hanging out on this forum who will be willing to get into contact with OHIZUMI - - They do not have email address on their website - I need their 400 deg.C radial lead type NGH series Thermistor element for use in high temperature hot ends. Thank youby Xabbax - General
DanMoto Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I can't seem to find if anyone tried these heating > element for a heated bed. Seems like it would > work similar to silicone pads. Have anyone tried > this? I used the 4 PTC heater elements (220 volt with 100 degrees max) fixed to the back of a hexagonal aluminium plate on my delta printer. Heaters availabby Xabbax - General
RP Iron Man Wrote: - > Does anyone know of an alternative thermistor that > can handle up to 400C? Operating Temperature: -40°C----+350°C Possible to use up to 400 deg.Cby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
ThanhTran Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Xabbax, > > Thanks for the video link. I tried sourcing the > SSF 6 solder at HomeDepot, and it had this > isntead: > > > 00672839&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&M > ERCH=REC-_-product-2-_-100672846-_-100672839-_-N#. > UaHnIbVtj9U > > Do you think it wouldby Xabbax - General
I used cuttlefish bone - cut it in 2-3 mm pieces and used high temperature silicone on the outside corners to secure the cuttlefish bone to the heater block. Only problem - could not remove the nozzle without destroying the insulation. Got the idea here - Wikipedia page - I could touch the outside of the insulation with my fingers when the hotend registered 230 degrees C The best insulatby Xabbax - Printing
ThanhTran Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the info. Is it the same solder that is > used with copper water pipe? No it is not the same The solder must contain silver - 56% and you must use the right flux with it. > > Xabbax Wrote: > > > > > I use silver solder with a 56% silver content - > > its melting point(by Xabbax - General
ThanhTran Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Nice simple design. > > How do you solder the stainless steel tube? I > thought lead solder won't stick to stainless > steel? I use silver solder with a 56% silver content - its melting point(600-800 degrees C) is much higher than ordinary solder and the heat transfer of the silver is better than copper.by Xabbax - General
If you consider a delta printer with magnetic arms - there are are two strong magnets and three high quality bearings inside old computer hard drives.by Xabbax - General
The all metal hotend I use for printing with recycled plastic from my filament extruder (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,205005,205005#msg-205005 ) I used the following:- A stainless steel hypodermic tube (available at Amazon and Mcmaster's) 0.084" ID Two m6 brass bolts with holes drilled through a copper heater block with holes for a 12v/40w stainless steel heater cartridge, a thermistorby Xabbax - General
Wrap the filament in aluminium foil to form a tube around the two pieces. Heat up with open flame. Push together while heating. You will feel when the plastic is melting - remove from flame. Let it cool down for a few seconds. Roll the tube between your fingers to get an even joint. Remove the foil and you will have a perfect joint. The plastic must melt to have a nice joint - practice makes perby Xabbax - General
SanjayM Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How did you grind your fridge bits into > processable pellets/bits. > Cut it up in long managable strips with garden shears and then used the circular saw to cut it by moving the plastic strips back and forth over the blade shaving away 3-5 mm of plastic at a time- see the attached image of the circular saw and thby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You got an awesome project going on there anyway. > The recycled plastic was available so I did that was natural instead of buying very expensive plastic( even imported from China it is expensive) > You might be able to create a machine that can > recycle ABS filament into a new 3mm string. Is > that evenby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
garyhodgson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Nice work Xabbax, > Thank you > It looks like you changed the design between pics > DSC00847 and DSC00850, by adding a flange to stop > the heat travelling back along the extruder pipe, > is that right? DCS00847 is a new one and similar to the one in DSC00850 but with 270 degree heaters that I wantby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Ohmarinus, No chilldren around and I am an old man - so I do not worry about the fumes and I do that in a well ventilated room. Yes I saw the printed chairs with the refrigerator plastics - good idea!by Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Low cost filament extruder made from 10 mm ID stainless steel tube, silver soldered inside an ordinary plumber 15 mm copper tube (melt zone) Auger is a 10 mm wood drill bit with the end cut off 5-10 mm in the melt zone. 1 mm hole in a brass endstop at the end of the copper pipe. Aluminium block with a 15 mm hole to fit around the copper pipe. Fixed to the outside of the aluminium two 220 voltby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I have my Delta up and running - anyone else in Cape Town area with a Delta? or anywhere in za?by Xabbax - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
I am experimenting with the theodleif's Excalibur Hotend ( ). In order to shorten the hotend and the meltzone I added a heat pipe about 5 mm from the meltzone and it is very effective in removing the heat from that zone. I used ordinary copper pipe with no wick and acetone as the working fluid. Now the search is on for thinner copper pipe and a heatsink around the heatpipes - something similarby Xabbax - General
Another idea - use two Rostock deltas - one upside down both using the same railsby Xabbax - General