Pausing: - Could be due to pauses caused by the operating system if it's Windows. - Could be a bad clone Arduino controller - Could be bad firmware - try a different kind. - Could be issue with running a graphic display with an 8-bit controller - depending on steps per second - but those would only be micro-pauses. - Definitely print from SD instead of USB - eliminates a major source of issues.by Paul Wanamaker - General
As someone commented on the youtube video: "Never cut vinyl stickers (which are PVC) with a laser, it creates chlorine gas". Other than being poisonous it also will corrode your equipment. That's something we also abide by in our maker space. Other than that - nice job - other than the safety issues - you should also show the enclosure you use. I would like to see this done with paint (I knowby Paul Wanamaker - Look what I made!
QuoteDownunder35m Finally good news in the end Yes indeed. I have added problem #32 TB6560 Driver Problems to the Shifted Layers / Offset Layers / Missed Steps Wiki page.by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
There are some tips here. Edit: Some of those tips are applicable especially with Slic3r, and some are ABS specific (concerning temperatures and materials). Triffid's guide also has some good tips. Certainly first layer height calibration is critical - the first layer should measure what you have calibrated it to be. I'm surprised that I have not been able to find a guide specific for firstby Paul Wanamaker - Slic3r
QuoteMightyMouth First layer problem printing ABS I tried various temperatures between 230c and 260c but the prints show the same problem. My bed is set to 120c but is actually around 100c. I tried increasing the extrusion to between 102% and 105‰. My printer is in a heated enclosure @ 28c. There are many ways to achieve good first layer adhesion - and many many threads that have talked about itby Paul Wanamaker - Printing
There is a link to the article on #26 on this page that talks about it what fast decay can do, and the diode fix. Not sure if that's the same article you've read.by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
We've got no idea what hardware you have... Can you post a photo of the stepper board, and info on the model? My wild speculation is it may be electrical interference in the stepper board caused by lack of/incorrect decoupling capacitors. This link talks about this extensively.by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
It is actually moving 3 extra times, alternating between going up or down between segments - not always using 90 degree moves to get there. * .25mm up (Y) * .5mm over (X) * .5mm over (X) * .25mm down to where the next segment starts. Here are you can see some of the moves (image from a gcode debugger/visualizer I wrote). Note that your layer time is only just over 3 seconds. I don't know ifby Paul Wanamaker - Slic3r
Hi Mammal, You may want to turn on Verbose G-code in Print settings - Output Options and reslice a simple object that has the issue. Then you may be able to determine what it's trying to do. If you can't tell, I can look at if you link the verbose Gcode and STL. I can run it through the g-code visualizer/debugger I wrote. If you do this, then also insert a photo and describe where it's doinby Paul Wanamaker - Slic3r
Please turn on Verbose G-code in Print Settings - Output options and re-slice. Then it will be easy to tell what it is doing. I think it could be a "move inwards before travel" type thing, but you'll see.by Paul Wanamaker - Slic3r
Most of the common causes have been mentioned, however there are a lot of other things that cause shifted layers. The following Wiki page may help: Shifted Layers Since this appears to be a more difficult issue - please consider posting some of the general, and specific info we could use to help diagnose your issue. You may also want to post a video. Also, as part of the diagnosis - try rotatiby Paul Wanamaker - Printing
Hi DBeck, There are a lot of reasons that it could miss steps. I pulled together the Shifted Layers Page to document many of them. Y axis missed steps are often because of an imbalance in the relationship between driver current, mass, torque, speed, and acceleration. When you lowered the voltage, you were actually lowering the stepper motor current. The fact that it skipped worse may therefby Paul Wanamaker - Printing
Hi Mohsen, Ralh is right. But why not calculate it? Because there are so many factors involved, and they are unique to your specific printer setup, and some factors will be unknown - and change with speed. - The torque of the motors varies by speed as shown below (different for every motor model), and is also related to the motor current - The mass you are moving is unique to your printerby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Hi Tinchus I recommend you use an actual mm value for all extrusion widths instead of a percentage, as in this case the percentage is not of the default extrusion width, but of the layer height! BTW, here are some Slic3r tutorials and videos.by Paul Wanamaker - Slic3r
Hi Noxaj It is a bit daunting to get started. Here are some resources for you: The Wiki has a Reference section, which has Calibration. I recommend Triffid Hunter's guide. The Tutorials section has Slic3r Tutorials. The Wiki has quite a bit that needs to be cleaned up - that's a community effort.by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
QuoteJamesK If the motor chews a divot in the filament then you need more idler tension. I use very high idler tension on pla - enough to crush abs into a half round. James, you may want to make a contoured idler bearing like this. QuoteRainney I pulled the whole thing apart. There was some melted filament that leaked out above the heater block. I separated the hot end from the heatsink, andby Paul Wanamaker - Printing
Hi Nate, There are several issues at play here. The primary one - you've hit on it - is filament deformation with multiple retracts. This is unavoidable, and should be compensated for by using a small value in Slic3r's Printer Settings - Extruder 1 - Extra length on restart (if you are using Slic3r). If you have none, then the nozzle looses a bit of pressure with each retract/unretract cycle,by Paul Wanamaker - Printing
Hi there, QuoteAudaciousTuddle There does seem to be some layer separation, but the print will snap across (perpendicular) to the grain. What can I do to make my prints stronger? It would be helpful if you listed your nozzle diameter, layer height, extrusion width settings, and speeds. (Are you using Slic3r?) I'm not discounting at all that it could be a bad batch, but without the above infoby Paul Wanamaker - Printing
Quotesomeoneonly As for the DFU programer I tried that but the console immediately closes. Do I need to run it in cmd or something ? Yes, the command lines to erase and program the chip are in step 2 above. Run them in command mode (I assumed you have Windows?) You could also save the two lines in a batch file in the same folder, and run them that way. Here is the batch file The hex file mby Paul Wanamaker - General
I wouldn't know if there is another way to reset the board. That's a primary problem - you need to re-check all the jumpers. Make sure the board is only powered by the USB - and the power jumper is correct. I don't know if the USB issue is what is happening tho. If it's an new board, you should be able to return it, and you should be able to write to RRD and get some support. The DFU programby Paul Wanamaker - General
These are the notes I had: I used the DFU-Programmer from here: This is the procedure I used to flash the USB chip on the Rumba: 1. Put in DFU MODE: a. Unplug from wall power b. Set the power jumper to USB powered c. Insert a jumper on the 3x2 block under Exp3, on the right most jumper - (that was on mine - they say now there is an arrow to it - make sure it's the right one) d. Plug in the USBby Paul Wanamaker - General
Hi daLy I got the same result. You should check to see if this has been reported on Github. For information on what's needed for a bug report see this on the Slicer Tutorials page. I tried this with these test settings: 10 perimeters, 20 top and bottom layers and .2mm layer height. I only got 4 top solid layers across the entire top - only in the center I did get 20 layers. BTW, the modelby Paul Wanamaker - Slic3r
Hello someoneonly I started out with a Rumba - seems like years ago - before I upgraded to a Smoothie for my delta, so what you are dealing with is very familiar, but it has been a while. Firstly - it really sounds like you have some issues with wiring that may be causing interference. See this thread. USB issues See the Rumba section here for some Troubleshooting. I had problems many times wby Paul Wanamaker - General
He may be looking at first layer speeds with a 50% setting.by Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
Hi Uragan, As you may know, the values for the Feed Rate in gcode are in mm/min, so that's why you are seeing them x 60. There are a few of things to look for, on the Print Settings, Speed tab. Since you are doing testing, and want to be sure of the speeds - use values in mm/s in all the Speeds for all print moves, not a %. This makes it easier to be sure of what you are asking it to do. Doby Paul Wanamaker - Reprappers
An accurate way is to read through the gcode and add up the individual segment times. Your program would focus on the segments that start with G0 or G1. Your program would need to parse the individual lines, extracting the X and Y position, Feed rate, and extrusion amount (for retract and unretract - see below). So you might have two lines like this: G1 X0.00 Y0.00 F1200 G1 X10.00 Y0.00 E1.by Paul Wanamaker - Developers
QuoteDC42 Can you explain why you think that bridges need different pressure management compared to other extruding moves? Bridging and sparse infill have similar issues (sparse infill being crossed layers that only touch at intersections), it shows up more as you can see the unsupported filament breaking. It's not really a different issue than with other large changes in pressure. For exampleby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
guiohm, Yes, I've made some progress - testing my post processor. Pressure compensation helps a lot for big changes in pressure. Changing the acceleration for the first segment of an extrude allows the extrusion to begin at the proper rate. I found that I really needed a Guided Calibration test generator to test these features - so I had been writing it - 8 modules so far. I'm sorry to say tby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines
Hi El34, Glad you got it working. If you are interested there is a tutorial for Retraction Tuning with Slic3r, and more Slic3r Tutorials and videos here.by Paul Wanamaker - Slic3r
Hi Bolec, Lowering Delta segments per second cuts down on the calculations. You may not notice much difference in quality with a lower value, to a point. So, you have a Mini Rambo - that's an 8-Bit Arduino. Are you using a Full Graphics display? Depending on your configuration (steps per mm, printing speed, move speed) there may not be enough processing power to calculate the delta math andby Paul Wanamaker - Delta Machines