Thanks Yes, the auto-calibration is such a relief. It both saves time and improves print quality. We've even made 2 m long G1-moves without getting over-tight or slack lines Looking forward to the updates! Best regards,by tobben - Hangprinter
Great! This also gives RRF hackers another support forum to lean on when it comes to all the non-3dprinter-specific stuff. Do you think being based on FreeRTOS will help RRF support new hardware more easily? I'm particularly interested in compiling for RISC-V boards once one becomes available that is suitable for 3d-printing.by tobben - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hey all, how are your builds progressing? I've put up an assembly guide here: Documentation is published straight into the Hangprinter repo: You can use Github issues, comments and pull requests, or post in this forum thread if you want to collaborate directly on documentation. Cheers,by tobben - Hangprinter
Ok nice. I'm very interested in reports on how RepRapFirmware's Hangprinter-implementation works. Weights on the lines might bounce up and down, which will produce visible artifacts on your print unless you've come up with some sort of mitigationby tobben - Hangprinter
Nice prints! Are you planning on putting Marlin onto the Duet, or will you use RepRapFirmware? Will you use Mechaduinos/Smart Steppers or open-loop drivers? My own current development is with Marlin and Mechaduinos/Smart Steppersby tobben - Hangprinter
Great work! One user in the fb-group has been helped by the new video already I'll also try using a separate thicker hotend heater-wire for my coming couple of builds, and see if I like it better.by tobben - Hangprinter
Hi Karl The answer to your question is yes, you can use the firmware as you suggest, even though Hangprinter actually has four anchor points. Some prior art for you: The geomery you propose has been discussed in the v2 thread. The Hangprinter is designed to be parked in the ceiling already. Footprint on the floor is a few screw heads. See Best regardsby tobben - Hangprinter
Hello dougmoffitt, Cool that you're designing a cable driven 3d printer! If you look closely in the Hangprinter archives, you will find a lot of useful information. Links here: I think you'll like the Mechaduinos. They will let you auto calibrate anchor locations and never worry about lost steps. I think you might regret counterweights. I used it back in 2014/2015. See my blog posts and forum pby tobben - Hangprinter
Nice, looking forward to it! The Hangprinter plugin doesn't work, don't use it. The calibration procedure is outdated and will not work. It also gets motor directions the wrong way. I've never used it myself, but it has severely complicated debugging that I've participated in.by tobben - Hangprinter
Cool! And well done with the customizations. Looking slick! It was a while since I researched non planar slicing. I mostly recall Øyvind Kallevik Grutle, and a the 5axismaker: Particularly inspiring was this video: There's also this student project: I currently have no plans on going 5dof myself. I want to work more on building a thriving HP3 community first. But it would super interesting!by tobben - Hangprinter
The above will work perfectly, I think. For builders coming after you, I want to mention a shortcut I prepared recently. If you have cut your mover beams to exactly 40 cm, you could use the reference layout compiled from the OpenSCAD-files: The dxf contains a 2d-version of the following layout: (If you use other non-default parameters and want to create your own dxf layout file, look into thby tobben - Hangprinter
Interesting! Compared to Chris' suggestion I'd rotate all of B and C slightly (B: -30 degrees, C: 30 degrees) to give their line paths (between spool and roller) ca 90 degree angles to each of the mover sides.by tobben - Hangprinter
Wohooooo! !!! Your thanks made my day. PS! The G1 Z5 works if you wrap it in G91/G90 G91 ; Set relative mode G1 Z25 ; Move 25 mm along positive Z G90 ; Back to absolute mode A G6 D-10 saves your previous print, but requires you to re-home before the next printby tobben - Hangprinter
Hi, yup, there's no M84/M18 in there, and HangprinterMarlin should never disable motor anyways. Could it be that your lines get tighter with increasing Z, and the D-stepper driver had a thermal shutdown? I've had that a couple of times, it feels like sudden freewheeling and velocity downwards gets higher than it would after a typical controlled motor disable. @fabricadigital.la Yup, rearrangigby tobben - Hangprinter
Seems like either one of inacticity, M18, and M84 could have disabled your motors if you use the stock Marlin. I recommend removing all M18 and M84 from your gcode, and disable inactivity shutdown in Configuration_adv.h. People (including myself) will forget this, and ABCD-motor disable is never a good idea with Hangprinter so I made a commit that disables the disabling of Hangprinter ABCD motoby tobben - Hangprinter
Nice! Very good print quality before the missed step! I always use Z-lift You can use plenty if you want since you have a relatively fast Z-axis. You can still bump into the model while extruding though. It can be minimized by printing/accelerating slowly I think, and by finding just the right hot end temperature. Maybe also some cooling can help. Very big motors or adding Mechaduinos also soby tobben - Hangprinter
Hi! It also could be the polyfuse triggering. Sounds like the same behaviour as I experienced in this twitter thread: I put a blade fuse between PSU and RAMPS, and shorted out the little polyfuse, and the temp drops went away. Less resistance in the ribbon cable also helps, since it gives you more heat in the heater block for less current. Best regardsby tobben - Hangprinter
It's so nice to hear you explain all these little things that I thought were only in my head! You must have studied very closely the earlier published stuff. One little thing is that I let ABC-lines enter the corner clamp from below, so that we get well defined and nearly stationary action points on the mover. When calibrating Dz, the mover should be positioned at home (nozzle in the origin), aby tobben - Hangprinter
For tips on ceiling plate, search for "pro tip" or similar here: I also highly recommend this build video:by tobben - Hangprinter
Oh, let me answer the line length question first! The short answer is 7.5 m on ABC, 4 m on D if your A-anchor is 1.5 m from the origin and D-anchor is 3 m above the origin. The long answer depends on where you mount your anchors and how much line you want on your spool in the origin. The latter determines your reachable print volume. Equations used in the firmware for calculating line lengths aby tobben - Hangprinter
Thanks for notifying me. The buildup compensation is now back on by default. The print looks great! Congrats! So well deserved! I think your wooden sheet (below the glass sheet in the video) can be a great print bed if you cover it in white glue. It's sometimes easier to distribute a thin layer of glue if you dilute it with a little water first.by tobben - Hangprinter
Hi Chris, That is just a convention. It is chosen quite at random, but establishing a convention has been useful. It makes possible a sanity check of anchor calibration value signs at compile time (feature in Configuration.h). It also makes it easier to write auto-calibration code that works for everyone. Putting constraints on the non-linear solver, like here, makes it converge faster and in morby tobben - Hangprinter
I'm sitting with the stock Marlin code now and noticed I had implemented "G6 S2" that will take spool buildup into account (like G7 does in HangprinterMarlin). Had just forgotten to document it... Delloman is right, so if you don't have Mechaduinos, you must use G7 or G6 S2 to calibrate individual axes.by tobben - Hangprinter
If you use the stock Marlin, you can set exactly those things you have changed (radii and #teeth) See: If you use good old HangprinterMarlin you will get away with only setting radii, since you kept 1:10 teeth. You risk getting too much line buildup with so small spools. I recommend the 0.36 mm FireLine instead of the 0.5 mm one. Set spool buildup factor accordingly. Mount as short lines as yby tobben - Hangprinter
Hey, I watched through it now. It's very clear and gets an amazing amount of detail just right! Placing the front of the ABC anchor linerollers flush with the anchor mount edge is a good tip for easier calibration later. I recommend also cutting the PTFE tube flush with the printed part front. It gives a sturdier exit point for the line, and a more defined point to measure during calibration.by tobben - Hangprinter
Cool! I just viewed 4 minutes right now, will watch the rest tomorrow morning. I had an experience with a cheap 12V 10A power supply a couple of days ago. It over heated after 30-40 minutes of printing and rebooted my Mega and Mechaduinos. This has never happened when I've used sanely configured stepstick drivers. Should it happen to you, try decreasing motor currents slightly. I increased theby tobben - Hangprinter
Seen from above, I measured this (B and C might be mirrored, I don't remember): As a sanity check, I measured the hypothenuses to the B and C anchors, and compared: The sanity check was ca 10 mm off in both cases.by tobben - Hangprinter
Assuming the figures show the mover from above, I try to aim for Fig. 2, but it works either way. With Fig 2 configuration, ANCHOR_C_X gets a negative sign, with Fig 1 configuration ANCHOR_B_X gets a negative sign...by tobben - Hangprinter