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Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 11 years ago
I have the MakerFarm I3 8" kit and it's a very nice printer. With the back braces the wood version is very sturdy. How well it holds up in years of service - we'll see. I have no regrets after getting it up and running. The big thing that comes with the kit is a support person (Colin) who apparently never sleeps. I've emailed him with questions at all sorts of odd hours and there's always a quickby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Heatbed driving me crazy, Silicon replacement? - 11 years ago
Your existing heat bed should heat up in about 5 to 8 minutes. If it does not, something is wrong. 1) If it's mounted directly to an aluminum base plate, it needs a thermal break. Cork, wood, and nylon spacers all work. Having some sort of cover behind the board does help. 2) Check the voltage out of your power supply with a volt meter. It may be sagging under load. Power = resistance times volby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Perfboard? - 11 years ago
The heater in your heated bed is likely FR4 based. The fiber glass perf board should be as good as the heated bed. Put another way, they both will work to 100 to 120C. If you use the perf board, you will have bumps on the bottom of your part. They will need to be sanded off. I'm not sure this is better than messing with glass...by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Measure your skirt with a caliper. - 11 years ago
As you write code you make decisions. Those decisions get implemented in the code. Different decisions (20 character field not 32) result in different code. You have a multitude of choices, you simply narrow them down early on. Once you have the system rolled out and installed in 2,231 locations, maybe a 22 character field would work better - welcome to Rep Rap. Here they don't have those 2,231 lby uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Glass reinforced silicone rubber - 11 years ago
If you are going to cut by hand, be careful. It's not all that hard to do, but there is definitely a bit of a trick to it. Your first couple cuts probably won't be as good as you would like. Glass is cheap enough that practice isn't very expensive. Buy a couple extra pieces to save yourself a second trip to the store.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
The stuff I am using is Garnier Frutis Style Extrme Control Anti-Humidity Hairspray Extreme 5. It works very well as a plastic glue. Their "system" runs from 1 to 5 with 5 being the most aggressive. If you want to hold hair in place this stuff must be rated to > 200 mph winds. It's cheap enough (~ $3.50 a can) that you probably could ask friends to pick some up on a visit over here. Given theby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Measure your skirt with a caliper. - 11 years ago
The reason to print a thin first layer is to get it to *really* stick to the glass. It also gets the base to fuse nicely. I tried your "back off the diameter" idea on a small print. It slightly improved the 2mm dia holes, but not by a lot. It also gave a bunch of gaps / holes in the print. Same printer / same settings (except no 0.1 larger nozzle diameter) gives no major gaps in the print. I'by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
are you using the "magic" extreme 5 green can hair spray? When I use that, the parts *really* stick to the glass.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
Well 2.91 vs 3.0 is about 3%. Making it smaller increases the amount of plastic pushed. I'd suggest doing a manual extrude of a straight piece of filament. It's a little tricky, but you do it in free air without stretching it. Then you measure it's diameter. That's what you put into the nozzle diameter in Slic3r. There's also a calibration step where you measure how much filament runs through wby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
..... you *very much* do not want to hear me try to speak French..by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
Are you sure your tip is a 0.4 mm? If it's 0.35 you should change it in Slic3r. I'd drop the first layer height to less than the height of your other layers. Have you checked the diameter of your filament with a set of calipers? If it's 2.75 instead of 3.00 that's going to make a difference. It's rare to see filament that's exactly 3.0 mm. Not sure what's going on with the infill. You shoulby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
I assume you are printing ABS?by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
"under the house" = basement. If you keep your filament down there, be careful about humidity. All of these filaments soak up water from the air. It does them no good. I would see if you can get a piece of thick plywood (> 13 mm) to mount the printer on. That should help the bed level while it's in one place. Any time you tear it down and set it back up, you will have to re-level. Loss ofby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
That's what the cube looks like when you set infill to zero. It can't print a top to the cube without any support. That gives you the mess on top. With your sticking issues (a little hair spray should be plenty) and the lack of fusion at the bottom of the cube, I think your Z end stop is set to high. You may also have an issue in your firmware settings for the extruder. It's not real clear thby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
If your bed level changes day to day, it may change during a print. I would take a close look at how mechanically stable your printer is. You might want to think about bolting / gluing / clamping it to a flat surface to stabilize it some more.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
The temperature settings in Slic3r are what *should* apply when you are printing. There's a setting for the first layer and one for the inner layers. I'd bet you have one set differently than the other (been there done that). I'd get some Kapton tape. It's got high temperature silicone adhesive on it and it works a lot better than other things. The hollow cube in the Marlin firmware package iby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Measure your skirt with a caliper. - 11 years ago
When I measure my skirt, it's 0.25 mm high and 0.95 mm wide out of a 0.40 mm tip. I print a thin first layer. If I raise the carriage and just shoot plastic it measures a nice round 0.41 mm. That's not to say that Slic3r isn't taking the expansion fully into account.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: extruder gear - 11 years ago
The simple solution is to just plug the extruder stepper in the other way on your Ramps board.by uncle_bob - Reprappers
Re: print quality, help needed - 11 years ago
I think you will find that your print defect relates to the "randomize starting points" setting in Slic3r. You may also need to tweak some extrusion settings (like filament diameter / temperature). --------------- One other (likely not applicable) thought: How a part is designed / sliced does impact how it prints. Your extruder / hot end will only put out a 0.40 mm (say) piece of filament. Ifby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Pronterface Marlin Extruder Feedrate Problems - 11 years ago
How much less than a minute?by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa 8" i3 power supply? - 11 years ago
The MeanWell S-350-12 is a very nice 12V 29A supply. It's built in fan is quiet enough that you don't notice it over the noise of the printer.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
The amazing thing about this is that it's all in firmware. There's nothing going on outside the Mega to make it all work. I suspect the Z axis steppers get a bit more of a workout running this. It might be worth paying a bit more attention to them when doing the auto leveling. Normally they just sit there doing nothing 99% of the time. With the leveling that might go to only 90% of the time. A loby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Opposite Home direction. - 11 years ago
There is a setting in the firmware for "extruder offset". You can probably use that to get your print area and the Z probe area to work out.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Extruding feedrate and slipping - 11 years ago
The feed rates are set both in the software and in the firmware. The Jerk and acceleration numbers in the firmware often override what Slic3r (or Pronterface) is saying. Pronterface knows almost nothing about your firmware. All it does is feed commands into the buffer on the Ramps / Mega / Marlin. It buffers the commands to keep things from hanging up. The idea is never have the Marlin firmwareby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: print quality, help needed - 11 years ago
In Slic3r there is a check box for "print multiple items one at a time". The only problem there is hitting something with your print head or carriage. With short stuff it's not usually a problem. With tall skinny items it can be. There are a bunch of buttons and boxes in the slicing process. The easy way to go is to try some small / simple / stupid parts and see what each setting does. It's a lby uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
If your Z end stop switches are set up as "normally closed" then you wire the new switch in series with the old one. If the switches are wired to the "normally open" contact on the microswitch, then you wire them in parallel. Both switches must be wired the same way for things to work. Both should be wired normally open or both should be wired normally closed.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Marlin Setting for Heatbed - 24V - 11 years ago
The Ramps board is only rated for 11 amps. If your bed pulls more than that, you will have an issue. // If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the // average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of // HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals. //#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Problem after uploading firmware to RepRapPro Mendel - 11 years ago
I just did a firmware mod / compile / update on a Mac (maybe 4 hours ago). I've seen no problems at all.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Marlin Setting for Heatbed - 24V - 11 years ago
How many amps does your 24V heat bed pull? The Ramps board may not be happy with your current. More likely - There is a firmware setting for heat beds that limits the max current for low resistance heaters. You may have it turned on.by uncle_bob - General Mendel Topics
Re: Glass reinforced silicone rubber - 11 years ago
Your local big box / hardware store will cut glass to about any size you could ever want. A mighty big piece should be < $10.by uncle_bob - Reprappers